What You Need to Know Before You Start
A cloak is one of the most forgiving garments to sew because it has no fitted sleeves, no waistband, and no closures unless you choose to add them. The basic shape is a large rectangle or semicircle of fabric that fastens at the neck and drapes over your shoulders and back. You can make a straightforward cloak in an afternoon with just a needle, thread, and scissors—or use a sewing machine to finish it faster and more neatly.
The main decision you'll make is the shape: a rectangular cloak is easiest to cut and sew straight, while a semicircular cloak looks more dramatic but requires you to sew a curved neckline. Both work. The fabric weight matters more than the pattern. Heavy fabrics like wool, velvet, or canvas hold their shape and drape well. Light fabrics like cotton or linen work too, but they won't stand away from your body the way a heavier cloak does.
Key Takeaways
- A rectangular cloak is the fastest option: measure from your shoulder to your ankle, add seam allowance, and cut a rectangle twice that width.
- You need to finish the raw edges with a hem, binding, or rolled edge so the cloak does not fray, especially on the bottom and sides.
- The neckline is the most important seam because it carries the weight of the entire cloak; reinforce it with a facing or bias tape.
- A straightforward neck closure can be as basic as two buttons and buttonholes, or as minimal as a drawstring threaded through a casing.
- Most cloaks take between four and eight hours to sew by hand, or two to four hours with a machine.
Measuring and Cutting Your Cloak Fabric
Start by measuring the length you want. Stand straight and measure from the base of your neck down to your ankle, or to wherever you want the cloak to end. Add 1 inch for seam allowance at the neckline and 1 to 2 inches for the hem at the bottom. Write this number down—this is your cloak length.
For a rectangular cloak, the width should be roughly twice your shoulder width, or even wider if you want a dramatic drape. A typical adult cloak is 45 to 60 inches wide. Measure your shoulder width and multiply by 2 or 2.5, then add 1 inch on each side for seam allowance. If your fabric is not wide enough, you can sew two lengths together down the middle back, or accept a narrower cloak.
Lay your fabric flat on a large table or the floor. Use a measuring tape and tailor's chalk or a fabric pencil to mark your rectangle. Cut along the lines with sharp fabric scissors or a rotary cutter. If you are making a semicircular cloak instead, mark a quarter-circle arc from the top corner and cut along it—this takes more fabric but creates a more elegant shape.
Finishing the Neckline with a Facing or Binding
The neckline is where your cloak will be stressed the most, so it needs to be reinforced. You have two main options: a facing (a strip of fabric sewn to the inside) or bias tape (a pre-made or hand-made strip of diagonal-grain fabric).
For a facing, cut a strip of fabric 2 to 3 inches wide and as long as your neckline opening. Fold it in half lengthwise and press with an iron. Pin the facing to the right side of the neckline, raw edges together. Sew it down with a 1/2-inch seam allowance. Fold the facing to the inside and press again. Topstitch (sew a visible line of stitching) 1/4 inch from the edge to hold it flat. This creates a professional finish and reinforces the neckline so it will not stretch or tear.
If you prefer bias tape, pin it around the neckline opening, covering the raw edge. Sew it down with a 1/4-inch seam allowance, then fold it to the inside and sew again from the inside to catch the back edge of the tape. Bias tape is faster if you buy it pre-made, but hand-made bias tape from your cloak fabric looks more cohesive.
Hemming the Sides and Bottom
Raw edges will fray, especially on heavy fabrics and after washing. You need to finish all the edges except the neckline. The simplest method is a basic hem: fold the raw edge up 1/2 to 1 inch, press it, fold it up again, and sew it down by hand or machine. This takes time but looks neat and is very durable.
A faster option is a rolled hem, which works best on lighter fabrics. Fold the edge up 1/4 inch, press, then fold again and sew close to the fold. The result is a thin, flexible edge that does not add bulk.
If you have a serger (a specialty sewing machine that cuts and finishes edges in one step), use it on all the raw edges—it is the fastest and most professional finish. If you do not have a serger, a basic machine stitch or a zigzag stitch along the raw edge before hemming will prevent fraying. Work your way around the entire perimeter: both long sides and the bottom edge.
Adding a Neck Closure
A cloak needs something to hold it closed at the neck. The simplest option is a drawstring: sew a casing (a tunnel of fabric) around the neckline facing, thread a cord or ribbon through it, and tie it. To make a casing, fold the facing down 1/2 inch and sew a line of stitching parallel to the fold, creating a channel. Thread a cord through with a safety pin.
Buttons and buttonholes are more formal. Sew two buttons on the inside of the neckline facing, one on each side, about 2 inches from the center front. Mark where the buttons land on the opposite side and sew buttonholes there. This lets you button the cloak closed or leave it open and flowing.
Hooks and eyes (small metal fasteners) are another option and are faster to sew than buttonholes. Sew one hook on one side of the neckline and one eye on the other. They are less visible than buttons and work well for cloaks that will be worn mostly open.
Reinforcing Seams and Adding Durability
The weight of the cloak pulls down on the neckline seam every time you wear it. Reinforce this seam by sewing it twice: once with a normal stitch, then again 1/4 inch away from the first line. This is called a double seam and is standard in tailoring for stress points.
If you are using a machine, use a thread color that matches your fabric and a stitch length of 2.5 to 3 millimeters—long enough to be strong but not so long that it looks loose. If you are sewing by hand, use a backstitch (the strongest hand stitch) and make your stitches small and close together, about 1/8 inch apart.
Consider adding a small reinforcement patch of fabric inside the neckline, behind where the buttons or hooks will go. This spreads the stress over a larger area and prevents the fabric from tearing. Cut a square of sturdy fabric 2 by 2 inches and sew it down with a box stitch (a square with an X through it) before you attach the buttons or hooks.
Pressing and Final Touches
Once all the seams are sewn and hemmed, press the entire cloak with an iron. Use a pressing cloth (a thin piece of cotton) between the iron and the fabric to avoid shine or scorch marks. Press the neckline facing flat, the hems flat, and any seams to one side. This makes the cloak look finished and professional.
Try the cloak on and check the length and drape. If the hem is uneven or the neckline feels tight, now is the time to adjust it. Mark any changes with tailor's chalk and sew them before you consider the cloak done.
If your cloak is made from a fabric that wrinkles easily, consider adding a light starch or fabric stiffener to the hem and neckline. This helps the cloak hold its shape and drape more dramatically. Follow the product instructions on the bottle.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I make a cloak without a sewing machine?
Yes. Hand sewing a cloak takes longer—usually six to ten hours depending on size—but the technique is the same. Use a backstitch for all seams and make your stitches small and tight. A thimble on your middle finger will protect it from the needle, and beeswax on your thread makes it stronger and less likely to tangle.
What fabric weight works best for a cloak?
Medium to heavy fabrics like wool, canvas, velvet, or linen work best because they drape well and hold their shape. Light fabrics like cotton voile or linen lawn will work but may look limp. Avoid stretchy fabrics like knits unless you want a fitted cloak, which is a different project.
How do I attach a hood to a cloak?
A hood is sewn to the neckline opening before you add the facing or binding. Make or purchase a hood pattern, sew the hood pieces together, and pin the hood opening to the neckline. Sew it down, then attach your facing or bias tape over the seam to reinforce it and hide the raw edges. This adds complexity but is possible for intermediate sewers.
What if my cloak is too heavy and pulls down at the neck?
Reinforce the neckline with a double seam and a facing at least 3 inches wide. You can also add a small hook or snap at the center back of the neckline to anchor the cloak to a shirt or dress underneath. Some people sew a thin ribbon or cord inside the neckline and tie it around the body under the cloak for extra support.
Can I add a lining to my cloak?
Yes, but it adds significant time and complexity. Cut a lining from lightweight fabric the same size as your cloak, sew it to the cloak with right sides together, leaving a gap at the neckline. Turn it right-side-out through the gap, press, and sew the gap closed. The lining hides all the seams and raw edges on the inside and makes the cloak feel more finished.