The basic steps for sewing a pillow cover and stuffing it

A decorative pillow starts with two pieces of fabric cut to the same size, sewn together on three sides, turned right-side out, stuffed, and then hand-stitched closed. The whole process takes two to four hours for a beginner, depending on the size and whether you add trim or embellishment. You will need a sewing machine, thread that matches your fabric, scissors, a needle for hand-sewing, and polyester fiberfill or another stuffing material.

The simplest approach is to cut two rectangles of fabric (16 by 16 inches is a standard throw pillow size), place them with the right sides facing each other, and sew three complete sides using a straight stitch and a half-inch seam allowance. Leave the fourth side open. Turn the cover inside-out through that opening, press the seams flat with an iron, stuff it firmly, and then fold the raw edges of the opening inward and hand-stitch them closed using a ladder stitch or whip stitch.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut two identical fabric pieces, sew three sides with right sides together, turn the cover right-side out, and hand-stitch the opening closed after stuffing.
  • A half-inch seam allowance and a straight stitch on a sewing machine are the standard for pillow construction and leave room for the fabric to hold without fraying.
  • Polyester fiberfill is inexpensive, washable, and widely available at fabric stores, though you can also use old fabric scraps, batting, or foam.
  • Pressing seams flat with an iron before turning and stuffing makes the finished pillow look sharper and more professional.
  • A ladder stitch closes the opening invisibly so the seam blends into the pillow edge rather than showing as a visible line.

Choosing fabric and calculating how much you need

Cotton quilting fabric, linen, and cotton blends are the easiest to work with because they hold a crease, don't slip under the presser foot, and are forgiving if your seams are slightly uneven. Avoid stretchy knits and very slippery fabrics like satin or silk until you have finished a few pillows, because they require a different needle and more careful handling.

Measure the finished size you want—a 16-by-16-inch pillow is standard for a couch, while 12-by-12 inches works for a chair or bed accent. Add one inch to each dimension to account for seam allowance (so a 16-by-16-inch pillow needs two pieces cut at 17 by 17 inches). If your fabric has a pattern or direction, cut both pieces so the pattern runs the same way. Buy fabric from a bolt at a fabric store or use scraps you already have; you need enough for two pieces plus a small amount extra in case of mistakes.

Sewing the three sides and preparing to turn the cover

Thread your sewing machine with thread that matches your fabric or is close enough that it will not show. Set the machine to a straight stitch with a stitch length of 2.5 millimeters—this is standard and holds the seam without puckering. Place the two fabric pieces with the right sides (the pretty sides) facing each other and the wrong sides (the back) facing out.

Pin the two pieces together along all four sides to keep them from shifting. Starting at one corner, sew along one long side using a half-inch seam allowance, which means the needle runs half an inch from the edge of the fabric. Sew all the way to the corner, backstitch two or three stitches to lock the thread, then lift the presser foot and rotate the fabric 90 degrees. Sew the next side the same way. Repeat for the third side. On the fourth side, sew only halfway across, leaving a 6-to-8-inch opening in the middle. Backstitch to lock the thread and remove the fabric from the machine.

Trim the corners of the sewn cover diagonally, cutting away the excess fabric about a quarter inch from the seam. This prevents the corners from bunching when you turn the cover right-side out. Be careful not to cut through the stitches themselves.

Turning the cover and pressing the seams

Reach through the opening you left and grab one corner of the fabric from the inside. Pull gently and steadily until that corner pops through the opening and the cover begins to turn right-side out. Continue pulling until the entire cover is turned and the seams are on the inside. The opening should now be at the edge, with the raw edges hidden inside.

Use a point turner—a small plastic or wooden tool shaped like a flat stick—or the blunt end of a chopstick to push the corners out from the inside so they are sharp and square. Press the entire cover flat with an iron set to the temperature appropriate for your fabric (check the fabric bolt or a care tag if you have one). Pay special attention to the seams, running the iron along each one to flatten it. This step makes the finished pillow look crisp and professional.

Stuffing the pillow and closing the opening

Fill the pillow with polyester fiberfill, pulling the fiberfill apart into smaller pieces as you go so it distributes evenly and does not clump. Stuff firmly enough that the pillow holds its shape and feels solid when you squeeze it, but not so tightly that the seams strain or the cover feels hard. Most 16-by-16-inch pillows need about 16 ounces of fiberfill, though the exact amount depends on how full you like your pillows.

Once the pillow is stuffed, fold the raw edges of the opening inward by half an inch and press them flat with your fingers or the iron. Pin the opening closed. Thread a needle with thread that matches your fabric and tie a knot at the end. Use a ladder stitch to close the opening: bring the needle up through the fold of fabric on one side of the opening, slide it horizontally inside the fold for about a quarter inch, bring it back out, cross over to the opposite side of the opening, and repeat. The thread runs inside the fold and is hidden from view. After every inch or so, pull the thread gently to draw the two sides of the opening together. When you reach the end, tie off the thread inside the fold and trim the excess.

Adding trim, piping, or embellishment

If you want to add decorative trim—such as fringe, lace, ribbon, or pom-pom trim—sew it to one or both of the fabric pieces before you sew the two pieces together. Pin the trim along the edge of the right side of the fabric, with the trim facing inward so it will be sandwiched between the two pieces when you sew them together. Sew the trim down using a straight stitch, then proceed with sewing the two pieces together as described above. When you turn the cover right-side out, the trim will be visible along the edge.

Piping—a thin cord wrapped in bias tape—is sewn the same way and creates a finished, tailored look. Embroidery, appliqué, or fabric paint can be added to either piece before sewing, as long as you let paint or glue dry completely first. Keep embellishment away from the seam allowance (stay at least half an inch from the edges) so it does not get caught in the stitches or prevent the seams from closing properly.

Troubleshooting common problems

Puckered seams: This usually means the stitch length is too short or the fabric is being pulled as it feeds through the machine. Check that you are not pulling the fabric—let the feed dogs (the metal teeth under the presser foot) move it. Increase the stitch length slightly and try again on a scrap of the same fabric.

Corners that are not sharp: You may not have trimmed the corners closely enough, or you may not have pushed them out far enough with the point turner. After turning the cover right-side out, use the point turner to push each corner out from the inside until it forms a clean right angle. Press with the iron to set the shape.

Visible stitches when closing the opening: The ladder stitch hides the thread if you slide the needle inside the fold of fabric rather than through it. Practice on a scrap first—bring the needle up through the fold, slide it horizontally inside the fold (not through the fabric itself), and come back out a quarter inch away. The thread should be hidden inside the fold.

Stuffing that clumps or shifts: Pull the fiberfill into smaller pieces before stuffing so it distributes evenly. If the pillow feels lumpy after a few weeks, you can open the ladder stitch, redistribute the stuffing, and close it again.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a serger instead of a regular sewing machine?

Yes, a serger creates a finished edge that looks professional and prevents fraying. Use a four-thread serger stitch for strength. You will still need to hand-stitch the opening closed, since a serger cannot easily sew a partial seam and leave an opening.

What if I do not have a point turner?

A chopstick, the blunt end of a wooden spoon, or even a closed ballpoint pen works to push corners out from the inside. Anything smooth and blunt that will not poke a hole in the fabric is fine.

How do I make a pillow with a zipper instead of hand-stitching it closed?

Sew the zipper to the opening edges before you sew the two pieces together, following the zipper package instructions. Then sew all four sides of the pillow closed on the machine, with the zipper sandwiched between the two pieces. You can then open the zipper, turn the cover right-side out, stuff it, and zip it closed.

Can I wash a finished decorative pillow?

Most cotton and cotton-blend pillows with polyester fiberfill can be hand-washed or machine-washed on a gentle cycle in cool water. Check the care instructions for your specific fabric. Dry on low heat or air-dry. If the pillow has embellishment, trim, or delicate fabric, hand-wash and air-dry to be safe.