Lined drapes start with two fabric pieces sewn together, then hung

Sewing lined drapes means stitching a decorative outer fabric to a lining fabric, then hanging the finished panel. The lining protects the main fabric from sun damage, blocks light, and gives the drapes weight and body. You sew the two fabrics right sides together, leave an opening to turn them, then stitch the opening closed by hand. The process takes a full day for a pair of drapes, depending on length and your sewing speed.

The basic steps are: cut both fabrics to size, sew three sides with the machine, turn the panel right side out through an opening, press flat, and close the opening with a ladder stitch. Then you add the rod pocket (the channel the curtain rod slides through) or tabs, and hem the bottom if needed. No special tools are required beyond a sewing machine, thread, scissors, and pins.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut the lining fabric the same width as the outer fabric but one inch shorter, so it does not show at the bottom.
  • Sew the outer fabric and lining right sides together on three sides, leaving the top edge open for turning.
  • Turn the panel right side out through the opening, press it flat, then close the opening with a ladder stitch sewn by hand.
  • Add a rod pocket along the top edge by folding the fabric down and stitching it, or attach tabs if you prefer.
  • Measure your window and add extra length for the rod pocket and any hem at the bottom before you cut.

Measure your window and add length for the rod pocket

Measure from the top of your window frame (or where you want the rod to sit) down to the sill or floor, depending on the look you want. Add 2 to 3 inches for the rod pocket — the channel the curtain rod slides through. If you plan to hem the bottom, add another 2 to 4 inches. Write down the total length.

For width, measure the width of your window and multiply by 1.5 to 2 to account for fullness (the gathered look when the drapes are closed). If you are using a standard 54-inch fabric width, one panel usually covers a window up to about 30 inches wide. Two panels cover wider windows. Cut the outer fabric to your final width and length. Cut the lining 1 inch shorter than the outer fabric so it does not peek out at the bottom.

Sew the outer fabric and lining right sides together

Lay the outer fabric on a flat surface with the right side (the pretty side) facing up. Place the lining on top of it with the right side facing down, so the two right sides are touching. Pin the edges together, leaving the top edge unpinned — this is your opening for turning the panel right side out later.

Sew along the bottom and both side edges with a half-inch seam allowance. Use a straight stitch and backstitch at the start and end of each seam. Do not sew the top edge. Trim the corners at a 45-degree angle to reduce bulk when you turn the panel, but do not cut into the stitching. Clip the side seams every inch or so to help the fabric turn smoothly without puckering.

Turn the panel right side out and press it flat

Reach through the opening at the top and grab the outer fabric from inside. Pull it through the opening slowly, turning the entire panel inside out as you go. The right sides of both fabrics should now be facing outward. Push the corners out fully with your fingers or a point turner (a flat tool made for this, though a chopstick works too).

Lay the panel on an ironing board and press it flat with a hot iron. Press the seams first, then the entire panel. The lining should sit flat against the back of the outer fabric with no wrinkles. Pay special attention to the corners and edges — a crisp press makes the next step easier and the finished drapes look professional.

Close the opening with a ladder stitch

Fold the raw edges of the opening inward by half an inch and press them. Thread a needle with thread that matches your outer fabric. Tie a knot at the end. Bring the needle up through the fold on one side of the opening, so the knot sits inside the fold and does not show.

Slide the needle through the fold for about a quarter inch, then bring it out and cross over to the opposite side of the opening. Slide the needle through that fold for a quarter inch and come back out. Cross back to the first side and repeat. The stitches form a ladder pattern inside the fold. After every few stitches, gently pull the thread to close the opening. When you reach the end, tie off the thread inside the fold. The opening should be completely closed and nearly invisible.

Add a rod pocket or tabs for hanging

A rod pocket is the simplest method. Fold the top edge of the panel down by 2 to 3 inches (depending on your rod diameter — measure your rod and add half an inch). Press the fold. Sew along the bottom edge of this fold with a straight stitch, backstitching at the start and end. This creates a channel the rod slides through. You can sew a second line of stitching one inch above the first to create a decorative casing.

Alternatively, attach tabs — fabric loops that hang from the rod. Cut strips of outer fabric about 2 inches wide and 4 to 6 inches long. Fold each strip in half lengthwise with right sides together, sew the long edge, turn it right side out, and press. Fold each tab in half to form a loop and pin the raw ends to the top edge of the panel, spacing them 4 to 6 inches apart. Sew them in place, then fold the top edge down and sew it as you would for a rod pocket, which secures the tabs.

Hem the bottom if your drapes are uneven

Hang the drapes on the rod and let them hang for 24 hours. Gravity will stretch the fabric slightly. Check the bottom edge — if it is uneven or longer than you want, mark the correct length with pins while the drapes are hanging. Take them down and lay them flat.

Fold the bottom edge up to your marked line and press. Fold it up again by half an inch and press. Sew along this fold with a straight stitch. This creates a clean, finished hem. If the lining is longer than the outer fabric at the bottom, trim it to match before hemming.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I need to pre-wash the fabric before sewing?

Pre-wash both the outer fabric and lining in cool water if the fabric is cotton or a cotton blend, since these shrink. Dry on low heat. Synthetic fabrics and blends that are mostly polyester usually do not shrink and do not need washing. Check the bolt label or ask the fabric store. Lining fabric is often pre-shrunk, but washing does not hurt.

What weight lining should I use?

Standard drapery lining (also called sateen lining) is the most common choice and works for most windows. It is medium weight, blocks light moderately, and is straightforward to sew. Blackout lining is thicker and blocks nearly all light — use it for bedrooms. Thermal lining insulates and reduces heat loss. Lightweight lining is thinner and works for sheer or lightweight outer fabrics.

Can I sew drapes without a sewing machine?

Yes, but it takes much longer. You can sew the three sides by hand using a backstitch, which is strong and reliable. The ladder stitch for closing the opening is already sewn by hand. Hand sewing is practical for small projects or repairs, but a sewing machine saves hours on full-length drapes.

What thread should I use?

Use all-purpose polyester thread in a color that matches your outer fabric. If your outer fabric is a print or multicolor, choose a neutral shade like tan or gray that blends with the dominant color. For the ladder stitch, use the same thread. Wind both the top and bobbin with the same color and weight.

How do I keep the lining from showing at the seams?

Cut the lining one inch shorter than the outer fabric so it naturally sits back from the bottom edge. When you sew the side seams, the lining will be slightly inset from the outer fabric edge. Press the seams carefully so they lie flat and the lining stays hidden. If lining shows at a side seam after pressing, you can hand-stitch it back in place with a few invisible stitches.