The three ways to finish a fabric edge

A raw fabric edge will fray—the threads at the cut come loose and pull away from the weave. You can stop this by folding the edge under and stitching it down, by using a machine stitch that locks the threads in place, or by sealing the edge with heat or glue. Which method you choose depends on what the fabric is, where the edge will be (hidden inside a seam or visible on the outside), and what tools you have.

The three main approaches are a turned and stitched hem (the fold-under method), a machine finish like a zigzag or serger stitch (the locking method), and a fabric sealant (the glue or heat method). Most sewers use a combination: a turned hem for garment edges that show, a zigzag stitch for seams that will be hidden inside, and sealant for knits or delicate fabrics that fray badly.

Key Takeaways

  • A turned hem folds the raw edge under twice and stitches it flat, which hides the fraying threads completely and works on any fabric.
  • A zigzag stitch on a regular sewing machine locks the threads at the edge without folding, and is faster than a hem for seams that won't show.
  • A serger (overlock machine) trims and finishes an edge in one pass, but requires a separate machine that not all sewers own.
  • Fabric glue or a heat sealer can seal the edge of knits and stretchy fabrics that are hard to hem neatly by hand or machine.
  • The edge you choose to use depends on whether it will be seen, what the fabric weight is, and whether the garment will be washed often.

The turned and stitched hem: hiding the edge completely

A turned hem is the most common finish for edges that will show—cuffs, necklines, the bottom of a skirt or sleeve. You fold the raw edge under by a small amount (usually one-quarter to one-half inch), press it flat, then fold it under again by the same amount, and stitch it down. The raw edge ends up trapped between the two folds, so it cannot fray.

To make a turned hem: measure and mark a line one-quarter inch from the raw edge using a ruler and fabric pencil or chalk. Fold the fabric along that line with the wrong side facing out, so the raw edge is now hidden inside the fold. Press the fold flat with an iron. Then measure one-quarter inch from that fold, mark it, and fold again—now the raw edge is sandwiched between the first fold and the second fold. Press flat again.

Stitch along the inner fold (the one closest to the raw edge) using a straight stitch and matching thread. Sew slowly and keep the needle line as close to the fold as you can. When you are done, the hem will look like a neat, flat band on the outside of the fabric, and the raw edge will be completely hidden. This finish works on cotton, linen, wool, and most woven fabrics.

The zigzag stitch: a fast finish for hidden seams

If the edge will be hidden inside a seam—like the raw edges of two pieces sewn together and then pressed to one side—you do not need to fold. A zigzag stitch on a regular sewing machine will lock the threads at the edge so they cannot pull loose. Set your machine to a zigzag stitch (most machines have this as a built-in option), adjust the width to about 2 to 3 millimeters, and the length to about 2 millimeters.

Sew along the raw edge with the needle going off the edge of the fabric on the outer swing of the zigzag. This way, the stitch catches the threads at the very edge and locks them down. The zigzag does not hide the edge the way a hem does, but it stops the fraying, and because it will be inside the garment, it does not need to look neat from the outside.

A zigzag is much faster than a turned hem and works well on knits and stretchy fabrics because it has a little give to it. It is also the standard finish for seams on store-bought clothing. If you do not have a zigzag option on your machine, a three-step zigzag (a setting that makes three small stitches for each swing) works even better at locking threads, though it is slower.

The serger: a professional finish in one pass

A serger (also called an overlock machine) is a separate machine that trims the raw edge and finishes it with thread in one pass. It uses three, four, or five threads depending on the model, and creates a neat, professional-looking edge that will not fray. Sergers are common in tailoring shops and among experienced sewers, but they are not essential for most home sewing.

If you own a serger, thread it according to your machine's manual (each model is different), set it to a standard overlock stitch, and run the fabric edge under the presser foot. The machine will trim a small amount of fabric and wrap thread around the edge as it goes. The result is a finished edge that looks like the seams on athletic wear or high-end garments.

Sergers are expensive (usually $300 to $800 for a basic model) and take time to learn. They are worth the investment if you sew regularly and want professional results, but a regular sewing machine with a zigzag stitch will finish edges well enough for most projects. Many community centers and makerspaces have sergers available to use by the hour if you want to try one before buying.

Fabric sealant and heat sealing for knits and delicate fabrics

Some fabrics fray so badly that stitching does not hold them well—very thin knits, loosely woven linen, and some synthetic fabrics. For these, a fabric sealant can work better. Liquid fabric glue (brands like Fray Check or Aleene's Tacky Glue) is painted along the raw edge and dries clear and flexible. It seals the threads in place without adding bulk.

explore the glue in a thin line along the raw edge using the applicator bottle or a small brush. Let it dry completely (usually 24 hours) before washing or wearing. The glue will not wash out, so this finish is permanent. Test it on a scrap of your fabric first, because some glues can leave a stiff or shiny line if you explore too much.

A heat sealer is a tool that melts the edge of synthetic fabrics (polyester, nylon, acrylic) so the threads fuse together. You run the heated edge along the raw edge of the fabric, and the heat seals it. Heat sealers are inexpensive (usually $10 to $30) and work very fast, but they only work on synthetics—they will scorch or melt natural fibers like cotton or wool. Always test on a scrap first.

Choosing the right finish for your project

The edge finish you choose depends on three things: whether the edge will be seen, what the fabric is, and how often the garment will be washed. An edge that shows—like the hem of a dress or the cuff of a sleeve—should be a turned hem or a serger finish, because these look neat and professional. An edge that will be hidden inside a seam can be a zigzag stitch or a serger, because appearance does not matter.

Lightweight and delicate fabrics often do better with a zigzag stitch or a sealant, because a turned hem can be bulky. Heavy fabrics like denim or canvas hold a turned hem well and look good. Knits and stretchy fabrics should use a zigzag or a sealant, because a turned hem can be stiff and uncomfortable to wear.

If the garment will be washed often, a turned hem or a serger finish is best, because they are durable and will not come loose. A zigzag stitch is also durable. Fabric sealant can wash out over time if the garment is washed in hot water or dried on high heat, so it is better for items that are washed gently or not often.

Common mistakes to avoid

The most common mistake is folding the hem too wide. A one-quarter inch fold is usually enough—if you fold more than one-half inch, the hem becomes bulky and visible from the outside, especially on lightweight fabrics. Measure carefully and use a ruler or a seam gauge to keep the fold even.

Another mistake is not pressing the fold flat before stitching. An iron flattens the fold and makes it easier to stitch a straight line. If you skip this step, the fold will shift as you sew and the hem will look wavy. Press as you go, not just at the beginning.

On a zigzag stitch, the most common mistake is sewing too far from the edge. The stitch needs to catch the very edge of the fabric to lock the threads. If you sew a quarter-inch away from the edge, the threads at the edge will still fray. Position the needle so it goes off the edge on the outer swing of the zigzag.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a turned hem on a knit fabric?

You can, but it often looks stiff and uncomfortable because knits need to stretch. A zigzag stitch or a sealant is better for knits because it lets the fabric move. If you do use a turned hem on a knit, use a ballpoint needle and a stretch stitch (if your machine has one) instead of a regular straight stitch.

What if my fabric is too thick to fold twice?

Use a single fold instead of a double fold. Fold the raw edge under once by one-half inch, press it flat, and stitch it down. The raw edge will still fray a little, but the fold will slow it down. For very thick fabrics like denim, a zigzag stitch along the raw edge is often better than trying to fold.

Does fabric glue wash out?

Most fabric glues are permanent and will not wash out. However, if you use too much glue or wash the garment in very hot water, some glues can soften or become sticky. Always test on a scrap of your fabric first, and follow the glue manufacturer's instructions for washing.

Do I need a serger to finish edges professionally?

No. A turned hem and a straight stitch look just as professional as a serger finish, and many handmade garments use only a regular sewing machine. A serger is faster and creates a specific look, but it is not necessary for good results.

What stitch should I use for a turned hem?

A straight stitch is standard and works on all fabrics. If you want extra durability, a backstitch (sewing backward and forward along the same line) or a small running stitch by hand will hold better. For knits, a stretch stitch (if your machine has one) is better than a straight stitch because it will not break when the fabric moves.