Edging covers raw edges and adds a finished border to any blanket

Edging is a strip of fabric or trim sewn along the edge of a blanket to cover raw seams and prevent fraying. You can use binding tape (a pre-folded strip sold in fabric stores), a contrasting fabric strip you cut yourself, or ready-made trim like rickrack or lace. The most common method is binding tape, which folds over the edge and gets sewn down on both sides in one pass or two. The whole job takes two to four hours depending on blanket size and whether you use a machine or hand-sew.

Binding tape comes in different widths—1 inch and 2 inches are standard—and in cotton, polyester, or blended fibers. Cotton binding works best on cotton blankets, and polyester binding works on fleece or synthetic blankets. The tape is already folded lengthwise, so you unfold one side, sew it to the front of the blanket, then fold it over and sew the back down. This creates a neat, professional-looking edge that lasts through many washings.

Key Takeaways

  • Binding tape comes pre-folded and is the fastest edging method; you unfold one side, sew it to the front of the blanket, then fold it over and sew the back in one or two passes.
  • Measure your blanket perimeter before buying binding tape so you have enough, plus 12 inches for overlap and corners.
  • A walking foot on your sewing machine helps keep the blanket from bunching, but hand-sewing with a needle and thread works just as well.
  • Corners require you to fold the binding at a 45-degree angle and sew through the fold to create a neat mitered corner.
  • Press the binding with an iron as you go to keep edges flat and make the final stitching line straight and even.

What you need before you start

Gather your blanket, binding tape or trim, scissors, pins, a needle or sewing machine, thread that matches or contrasts with your binding, and an iron. If you are using binding tape, buy it in a width that suits your blanket—most come in 1-inch or 2-inch widths. A 1-inch binding is standard and works on almost any blanket. Check the fiber content: cotton binding works on cotton blankets, and polyester binding works on fleece or synthetic blankets.

Measure the perimeter of your blanket by adding the length and width, then multiplying by two. Add 12 extra inches to account for corners and overlap where the binding ends meet. If your blanket is 40 inches by 60 inches, the perimeter is 200 inches, so buy 212 inches (about 6 yards) of binding tape. Buy from a fabric store or online retailer that sells binding by the yard—you can order exactly what you need without waste.

How to prepare the blanket and binding

Lay the blanket flat on a clean surface and trim any loose threads or uneven edges with scissors. If the blanket has a raw edge that frays easily (like fleece or cotton), you can leave it as is—the binding will cover it. If the edge is already finished (like a store-bought blanket with a hem), you can still add edging over it for decoration, though the edge will be thicker.

Unroll your binding tape and press it flat with an iron on low heat to remove any creases from storage. If you are using pre-folded binding, unfold one long edge so the tape lies flat. This unfolded edge is what you will sew to the front of the blanket first. Cut a 12-inch tail at the start and end so you have room to overlap and finish neatly when you reach the starting point again.

Sewing binding to the front of the blanket

Pin the unfolded edge of the binding to the front of the blanket, starting at the middle of one side (not a corner). Leave a 6-inch tail unpinned at the start. Align the raw edge of the binding with the raw edge of the blanket, and pin every 3 to 4 inches. Use a sewing machine set to a straight stitch with a medium stitch length (2.0 to 2.5), or hand-sew with a running stitch about 1/4 inch from the edge.

Sew slowly and stop 1/4 inch before you reach a corner. Fold the binding at a 45-degree angle away from the blanket, then fold it back on itself so it forms a right angle with the next edge. This creates a mitered corner that looks neat when folded over. Pin the next edge and continue sewing. Repeat at all four corners, taking your time at each one to make sure the fold is crisp.

When you reach the starting point, overlap the binding by 1 inch, trim the excess, and sew the overlap down. Press the entire front seam with an iron to flatten it and set the stitches before moving to the back side.

Folding and sewing the binding to the back

Fold the binding over the edge of the blanket to the back side. The fold should be crisp and even all the way around. Pin it in place every 3 to 4 inches, making sure the fold covers the seam line you just sewed. At corners, the mitered fold you created will naturally form a neat point on the back, so pin carefully to keep it in place.

Sew the binding down on the back by machine or hand. If you use a machine, sew close to the inner edge of the binding (about 1/8 inch from the fold). If you hand-sew, use a ladder stitch (also called an invisible stitch) by bringing the needle up through the fold, across to the blanket, and back up through the fold in a zigzag pattern. This hides the thread inside the fold and creates a seam that looks professional. Press the finished edge with an iron to set the stitches and smooth out any wrinkles.

Hand-sewing edging if you do not have a machine

Hand-sewing takes longer but requires only a needle, thread, and patience. Use a running stitch (in and out of the fabric in a straight line) or a backstitch (which is stronger and used for seams). A backstitch is better for binding because it holds more securely. Bring the needle up through the blanket and binding, go back one stitch length, and come up one stitch length ahead. Pull the thread snug but not tight—tight stitches can pucker the fabric and make the edge wavy.

For the back side, a ladder stitch is nearly invisible and looks professional. Bring the needle up through the fold of the binding, slide it horizontally inside the fold for about 1/4 inch, come back out, and cross over to the blanket. Go up through the blanket and back into the fold. The thread runs inside the fold and is hidden from view. This takes practice but creates a seam that looks like it was done by machine. Work slowly and keep your stitches even in length for the best result.

Fixing common mistakes

If the binding twists or bunches as you sew, stop and repin that section. Bunching usually means the binding is not aligned evenly with the blanket edge. Smooth it out and start again from the last find stitch. If you sew the binding crooked, you can carefully cut the stitches with a seam ripper and resew that section without damaging the fabric underneath.

If the corners look lumpy or the binding does not fold neatly, the mitered fold may not be at exactly 45 degrees. Trim a tiny bit of binding at the corner fold and re-press with an iron. If the back seam is wavy, press it again with steam and let it cool before removing the pins. Wavy seams usually flatten after a full wash and dry cycle, so do not panic if the edge is not perfect on the first try.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use regular fabric strips instead of binding tape?

Yes. Cut strips 2 to 3 inches wide from fabric that matches or contrasts with your blanket. Sew them to the front edge, fold over, and sew the back the same way as binding tape. You will need to fold the raw edges of the strip inward as you fold it over, which takes more time but gives you complete control over the look and color.

What stitch length should I use on my sewing machine?

A medium stitch length of 2.0 to 2.5 works well for most blankets and binding. Smaller stitches (1.5) are stronger but can pucker fleece or stretchy fabrics. Larger stitches (3.0) are faster but may not hold as well on heavy blankets. Test on a scrap first if you are unsure.

Do I have to use a walking foot?

A walking foot helps prevent bunching on thick blankets by feeding the top and bottom layers evenly, but it is not required. If your blanket bunches without one, slow down, use your hands to guide the fabric gently, and stop often to smooth out wrinkles. Hand-sewing avoids this problem entirely.

What happens if I run out of binding before I finish?

Stop at a point that is not a corner, overlap the end of your binding by 1 inch, and sew it down. Start a new piece of binding 1 inch before where you stopped, overlap it with the first piece, and continue. The overlap will be hidden when you fold the binding to the back.

Can I add edging to a blanket that already has a finished hem?

Yes, but the edge will be thicker because you are sewing through two layers. Use a needle that is strong enough for thick fabric, sew slowly, and consider hand-sewing instead of using a machine if the machine struggles. The binding will sit on top of the existing hem and look like a decorative border.