Sew an eyeglass case in about an hour with two fabric pieces and basic stitches

An eyeglass case is one of the fastest sewing projects you can make—it requires only two rectangles of fabric, a needle, thread, and about an hour of your time. You do not need a sewing machine; hand-stitching works perfectly well. The finished case will hold a pair of glasses safely and fits in a pocket or bag.

This project teaches you three essential hand-sewing techniques: running stitch (the basic forward-and-back motion), backstitch (the strongest seam for stress points), and whip stitch (the invisible closing seam). Once you understand these three, you can adjust the size for sunglasses, reading glasses, or even small items like coins or jewelry.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut two rectangles of fabric 9 inches by 5 inches, then pin them with the pretty sides facing each other so the seams end up hidden inside.
  • Use backstitch along three sides, leaving one short end open so you can turn the case right-side-out and stuff it with padding.
  • Sew the opening closed with whip stitch, which creates an invisible seam that looks finished from the outside.
  • Add a thin layer of batting or fleece between the two fabric pieces if you want the case to protect glasses from bumps.
  • The entire project takes 45 minutes to an hour by hand, and you can use fabric scraps you already have at home.

Gather your fabric, thread, and tools

You need two pieces of fabric cut to the same size. A standard eyeglass case is 9 inches long and 5 inches wide—large enough for most frames but small enough to fit a shirt pocket. If you are sewing for oversized sunglasses, add an inch to each dimension. If you are making a case for reading glasses, you can go down to 8 inches by 4 inches.

Choose a fabric with some body to it—cotton quilting fabric, linen, or canvas work better than thin jersey or silk. Thin fabrics tear easily when you pull the needle through, and slippery fabrics slide around while you stitch. If you have fabric scraps from an old project, test them by pinching a corner and pulling gently; if it stretches or tears, pick something else.

Thread color does not have to match your fabric perfectly, but it should be close enough that the stitches do not stand out. Use a needle size that fits comfortably in your hand—a size 7 or 8 embroidery needle is ideal for most cotton and linen. Gather a ruler, scissors, pins, and a pencil or fabric marker to mark your cutting lines.

Cut and prepare your fabric pieces

Lay one piece of fabric on a flat surface. Using your ruler and pencil, mark a rectangle 9 inches long and 5 inches wide. Mark all four corners clearly so your lines are straight. Cut along the lines with sharp scissors, cutting slowly and keeping the blade at a 90-degree angle to the fabric so the edges are clean.

Cut your second piece to exactly the same size. Lay both pieces on top of each other and check that the corners line up. If one piece is slightly larger, trim it to match. Uneven edges will show when you turn the case right-side-out, so take a moment to make sure both rectangles are identical.

If you want padding inside the case to protect the glasses, cut a piece of batting or fleece to the same size as your fabric pieces. Batting is a thin, fluffy material sold in fabric stores; fleece is thicker and warmer. Either one works—choose based on how much cushioning you want. You will sandwich the batting between the two fabric pieces before you start sewing.

Pin the fabric with the right sides facing each other

Right sides facing means the pretty, finished side of the fabric faces inward, and the rough back sides face outward. This is the standard way to sew a closed shape because it hides all your seams inside the finished case.

Lay one fabric piece on your work surface with the right side (the side you want to see on the finished case) facing up. If you are using batting, lay it on top of this first piece. Now lay the second fabric piece on top, with its right side facing down—so the two pretty sides are looking at each other, and the batting is sandwiched between them.

Pin all four corners first, pushing the pin straight through all layers. Then pin along each edge about every 2 inches. Pins hold the layers steady while you stitch and prevent them from sliding around. Make sure the corners line up exactly; if one corner is off by even a quarter-inch, the case will be lopsided when you turn it right-side-out.

Backstitch three sides, leaving one short end open

Backstitch is the strongest hand-sewing stitch and the best choice for seams that will get stress from opening and closing the case. To backstitch, push your needle through all layers from the back, then bring it back up about a quarter-inch forward. Push the needle back down into the hole you just came out of, then bring it up another quarter-inch forward. Repeat this forward-and-back motion along the entire seam.

Start at one corner of the long side. Push your needle through all layers, leaving a 3-inch tail of thread on the back. Backstitch along the entire long side, keeping your stitches small and even—about a quarter-inch apart. When you reach the corner, backstitch around it by taking one stitch diagonally across the corner point, then continue along the next side.

Backstitch along the entire second long side and the entire third short side. When you reach the last corner before the open end, backstitch back to where you started on that side, leaving the entire fourth short side open. This opening is where you will turn the case right-side-out and insert the glasses. Tie off your thread by taking two small stitches in the same spot, then trim the thread close to the fabric.

Turn the case right-side-out through the opening

You now have a fabric tube with three closed sides and one open side. Reach into the opening with your fingers and grab the corner of the fabric closest to you. Gently pull that corner toward the opening, turning the entire case inside-out as you pull. Keep pulling slowly until the case is completely turned right-side-out.

Push the corners out from the inside using a blunt tool—the back of a spoon, a chopstick, or even a closed pen works well. Poke each corner from the inside until it forms a sharp point on the outside. This makes the case look crisp and finished. Smooth the seams with your fingers so they lie flat.

The case now has the pretty fabric on the outside and the seams hidden on the inside. The opening is still raw—the cut edges of the fabric are exposed. This is where you will add the final seam.

Close the opening with whip stitch

Whip stitch is an invisible seam that closes the opening from the outside. It works by catching just a few threads of fabric on each side, so the thread runs along the fold of the fabric rather than across it.

Fold the raw edges of the opening inward about a quarter-inch, as if you are making a tiny hem. Pinch the fold with your fingers to crease it. Thread your needle and tie a knot at the end. Push the needle through the fold on one side of the opening, coming out right at the crease. Slide the needle along inside the fold for about a quarter-inch, then push it back out through the fold.

Now push the needle straight across into the fold on the opposite side of the opening, at the same height. Slide the needle along inside that fold for a quarter-inch, then push it back out. Continue this side-to-side motion, always staying right at the crease. The thread will be nearly invisible because it runs along the fold rather than across the fabric surface. When you reach the end of the opening, tie off the thread with two small stitches in the same spot, then trim it close to the fabric.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a sewing machine instead of hand-stitching?

Yes. Set your machine to a straight stitch with a stitch length of 2.0 to 2.5 millimeters. Sew a quarter-inch seam allowance along three sides, then turn the case right-side-out and close the opening by hand with whip stitch. Machine stitching is faster and stronger, but hand-stitching the closing seam gives a neater finish.

What if I do not have batting for padding?

The case works fine without padding—it will just be thinner and offer less protection. If you want some cushioning but no batting, fold a piece of soft fabric like flannel or an old t-shirt to the same size as your case pieces and use that as padding instead.

How do I make the case bigger or smaller?

Measure your glasses from the tip of one arm to the tip of the other arm when folded, then add 1 inch to that measurement for length. Measure the height of the frame and add 1 inch for width. Cut your fabric pieces to those dimensions and follow the same steps.

What happens if my stitches are uneven or messy-looking?

Uneven stitches are normal when you are learning. The case will still work perfectly—the seams are strong and the case will protect your glasses. As you make more cases, your stitches will become more even naturally. If a seam is actually loose or torn, you can backstitch over it again to reinforce it.

Can I add a strap or button to close the case?

Yes. Before you sew the opening closed, sew a small loop of ribbon or fabric tape to one side of the opening, positioned so it reaches across to the other side. Then sew a button to the opposite side and loop the strap over it to close. This keeps the glasses from sliding out if the case tips over.