Faux fur requires different handling than regular fabric because the pile sheds and the backing is slippery

Sewing faux fur means working against two problems at once: the pile (the fuzzy surface) sheds constantly during cutting and sewing, and the knit or woven backing slides under your presser foot. The standard approach — pinning, cutting straight lines, using a regular stitch — fails because pins leave holes in the backing, scissors get clogged with fur, and the fabric creeps sideways. The method that works is to cut from the back, use a walking foot or even-feed foot, and let the pile sit loose rather than trying to flatten it.

The difference between success and a seam that puckers or sheds excessively comes down to three choices: how you cut, what foot you use, and how tight you pull the fabric. Get those three right and faux fur sews almost as smoothly as cotton.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut faux fur from the back side using a rotary cutter or sharp scissors, never from the pile side, because the fur clogs blades and the backing tears unevenly.
  • Use a walking foot (also called an even-feed foot) to move the backing and pile together at the same speed, preventing the fabric from creeping sideways.
  • Stitch with a longer stitch length — 3.0 to 3.5 millimeters — because short stitches perforate the backing and cause seams to separate.
  • Brush the seam allowance with a stiff brush or old toothbrush after sewing to pull trapped pile out of the seam and make the join look finished.

Cut from the back, not the pile

Cutting faux fur from the pile side clogs your scissors or rotary cutter within seconds because the fur wraps around the blade. The backing also tears unevenly when you cut from the top, leaving a ragged edge that shows. Flip the fabric over and cut from the back every time.

Lay the faux fur backing-side-up on a cutting mat. Use a rotary cutter with a sharp blade — a dull one will drag the backing instead of slicing it cleanly. If you use scissors, keep them sharp and wipe the blade every few cuts to clear away fur that sticks to the metal. Mark your cutting line on the back with a fabric pen or chalk, then cut slowly and deliberately. A straight edge or ruler helps keep the line true.

The backing should separate cleanly from the mat when you lift it. If it tears or shreds, your blade is dull or you are pressing too hard. Replace the rotary blade or sharpen your scissors before continuing.

Use a walking foot to stop the fabric from creeping

A regular presser foot pushes the top layer of fabric forward while the feed dogs underneath move the backing. With faux fur, this mismatch causes the slippery knit backing to slide sideways, and the pile bunches up. A walking foot (also called an even-feed foot) has its own set of feed dogs that grip the top layer, so both layers move at the same speed.

Walking feet come as standard equipment on some machines and as an optional attachment on others. Check your machine manual to see whether you have one or need to buy one — most cost between $25 and $60. Attach it according to your machine's instructions, then thread the machine as usual. The walking foot will feel slightly heavier than a regular foot, but the difference in how the fabric feeds is when ready.

If you do not have a walking foot and cannot get one, a Teflon foot (also called a non-stick foot) reduces slipping, though it is not as effective. A regular foot with a piece of moleskin glued to the bottom also helps, though this is a temporary fix.

Lengthen your stitch and reduce pressure

Faux fur backing is thinner and more delicate than woven cotton, so a standard stitch length of 2.0 to 2.5 millimeters perforates it too densely. The backing can separate along the seam line, especially after washing or stretching. Use a stitch length of 3.0 to 3.5 millimeters instead — long enough to hold without weakening the backing, but not so long that stitches are visible from the front.

Reduce the presser foot pressure if your machine allows it. High pressure flattens the pile into the backing and makes it harder to brush out later. Most machines have a dial or lever on top; turn it down by one or two notches. If you cannot adjust pressure, do not worry — the walking foot does most of the work.

Test your settings on a scrap of the same faux fur before sewing your actual project. Sew a seam, then pull gently on both sides to see whether the stitches hold. If the backing tears or the seam puckers, lengthen the stitch by another 0.5 millimeters and test again.

Brush the seam after sewing to finish it

When you remove the fabric from the machine, pile will be trapped in the seam line, making it look thick and unfinished. Use a stiff brush — an old toothbrush works well, or buy a pet slicker brush from a pet supply store — and brush the seam from the back side. Brush perpendicular to the seam, pulling the pile up and away from the stitches.

Brush gently at first. Too much pressure can pull stitches loose or tear the backing. Work along the entire seam, then flip the fabric over and brush from the front side as well. The pile should now sit smoothly over the seam, and the join should look nearly invisible from the front.

If you are making a garment, brush the seams after every fitting or alteration. This keeps the pile from matting down permanently along the seam line.

Seam allowances and finishing edges

Faux fur does not fray the way woven fabric does, so you do not need to finish raw edges with a zigzag stitch or binding. The backing may shed a little, but the pile holds together. Trim seam allowances to 0.5 inches (about 1.3 centimeters) to reduce bulk, especially at corners or where multiple seams meet.

If you are sewing a seam that will be visible from the front — such as a decorative topstitch — use thread that matches the pile color, not the backing. Topstitching with a walking foot and a 3.0-millimeter stitch will be visible, so test on a scrap first to make sure you like the look.

For seams that will be hidden inside a garment or project, use thread that matches the backing color. The stitches will not show, and you will save time matching thread to the pile.

Common problems and how to fix them

Seams pucker or bunch: This usually means you are using a regular presser foot instead of a walking foot, or your stitch length is too short. Switch to a walking foot if you have not already, and lengthen the stitch to 3.5 millimeters. If puckering still happens, check that you are not pulling the fabric as it feeds — let the machine do the work.

Backing tears along the seam: Your stitch length is too short, or you are using too much presser foot pressure. Increase stitch length to 3.5 or 4.0 millimeters and reduce pressure if your machine allows it. Test on a scrap before sewing again.

Pile looks matted or flattened after sewing: Brush the seam with a stiff brush as described above. If matting is severe, try steaming the area gently with a handheld steamer or the steam setting on an iron held a few inches away. Do not press the iron directly onto faux fur, as heat can damage the pile.

Thread shows on the front of the seam: Use thread that matches the pile color, and make sure your stitch length is long enough that stitches do not sink into the backing. A 3.0-millimeter stitch should be nearly invisible once the pile is brushed out.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a serger on faux fur?

A serger works on faux fur, but it is not necessary and can be harder to control than a regular machine with a walking foot. Sergers cut the seam allowance as they sew, which wastes fabric, and the multiple threads can create bulk. A regular machine with a walking foot and a 3.0-millimeter stitch is simpler and gives better results for most projects.

What needle should I use?

Use a universal needle in size 80/12 or 90/14, depending on the thickness of the backing. A universal needle works on both knit and woven backings. If the needle skips stitches or breaks, try a size 90/14 or switch to a ballpoint needle designed for knits. Replace the needle after every project or two, because a dull needle causes puckering.

Do I need to prewash faux fur before sewing?

Most faux fur does not need prewashing because it does not shrink the way natural fur or cotton does. Check the bolt or label to see whether the manufacturer recommends washing. If you do wash it, use cold water, gentle cycle, and lay it flat to dry — do not wring or hang it, as this can stretch the backing.

How do I sew faux fur to a woven fabric like cotton?

Use a walking foot and a 3.0-millimeter stitch, the same as you would for faux-fur-to-faux-fur seams. The walking foot handles the difference in how the two fabrics feed. Sew with the faux fur on top so you can see the seam line clearly, and brush the pile away from the seam as you work to keep it out of the stitches.

Can I machine wash a garment made from faux fur?

Most faux fur can be machine washed on a gentle cycle in cold water, but check the label first. Use a mesh laundry bag to protect the pile, and lay the garment flat to dry. Do not put it in the dryer, as heat can melt or damage the backing. Brush the pile gently after washing to restore its texture.