What faux roman shades are and why they work

Faux roman shades look like real roman shades—fabric that folds up in neat horizontal pleats when you pull a cord—but they don't actually fold. Instead, the fabric is permanently sewn into flat horizontal pleats, and a single cord or chain at the side pulls the whole shade up like a regular roller shade. The pleats stay in place whether the shade is up or down.

This design is simpler to build than a true roman shade because you don't need to install cords inside the shade or rig up a pulley system. You sew the pleats into the fabric itself, add a mounting board at the top, and attach a single lift cord on one side. The result looks tailored and professional, and because the pleats are permanent, they never go slack or misalign the way real roman shade cords sometimes do.

Key Takeaways

  • Faux roman shades are made by sewing permanent horizontal pleats into fabric, then mounting the shade on a board and adding a single lift cord on the side.
  • You will need fabric, a mounting board, dowels or cording to reinforce the pleat lines, a lift cord, and basic sewing supplies including a sewing machine.
  • The pleats are created by folding the fabric to a specific depth, sewing across the fold, then inserting a thin dowel or cord into a channel you create with a second line of stitching.
  • Measuring and marking the pleat lines accurately before you sew is the most important step—mistakes here will show in the finished shade.

Measuring and calculating pleat depth

Start by deciding how many pleats you want and how deep each pleat should be. A typical faux roman shade has between three and six pleats, and each pleat usually folds down between two and four inches when the shade is raised. The pleat depth you choose affects how the shade looks when it is fully up—deeper pleats create a more dramatic stack of fabric at the top.

Measure your window opening and decide on the finished width and length of your shade. Add extra width on each side for hems (usually one inch on each side). Then subtract the total hem width from your finished width to get the actual sewing width. Divide this width by the number of pleats you want to find the spacing between pleat lines. Write these measurements down—you will mark them on the fabric before you sew.

For the length, measure from the top of your window to the sill or floor, depending on where you want the shade to end. Add the depth of each pleat multiplied by the number of pleats, then add one inch for the top seam allowance and one inch for the bottom hem. This total is the length you need to cut your fabric.

Cutting and preparing the fabric

Cut your fabric to the length and width you calculated. If your fabric has a pattern or nap (like velvet or corduroy), make sure all pieces run the same direction. Press the fabric flat with an iron to remove wrinkles, then fold and press the side hems—usually one inch folded to the back—and pin them in place. Sew the hems with a straight stitch, then press them flat.

Fold and press the bottom hem the same way, usually one to one and a half inches, and sew it. Do not hem the top yet—you will attach that to the mounting board. Now lay the fabric flat on a large table or the floor and use a ruler and fabric pencil or chalk to mark the pleat lines across the width of the fabric. Mark lightly so the marks will wash out or fade.

Sewing the pleat channels

A pleat channel is two parallel lines of stitching that create a pocket where you will slide a dowel or cord to hold the pleat in shape. To make the first channel, fold the fabric along your first marked pleat line, bringing the fold up toward the top of the shade. The fold itself becomes the visible pleat line. Pin the fold in place.

Sew a straight line parallel to the fold, about one-quarter inch away from it. This is your first stitch line. Then sew a second line about one-half to three-quarters inch away from the first line, depending on the thickness of the dowel you plan to use. The space between these two lines is the channel where the dowel will sit. Remove the pins and press the stitched pleat flat with an iron.

Repeat this process for each pleat, working from top to bottom. After you sew each channel, press it flat before moving to the next one. This keeps the pleats even and prevents the fabric from shifting as you work.

Installing dowels or cording in the channels

Once all the channels are sewn, you need to insert something into each channel to hold the pleat rigid. Most people use either thin wooden dowels (usually one-quarter inch diameter) or plastic-coated cable or cord. Dowels are easier to work with because they are stiff and hold their shape, but they can warp if exposed to moisture. Cord is more flexible and moisture-resistant but requires more care to keep it straight.

Cut your dowels or cord to the width of your shade minus one inch on each end (so they sit inside the channels without poking out). Slide each dowel or cord into its channel from one side. If the channel is tight, use a safety pin or a piece of stiff wire to help push it through. Once all dowels are in place, stitch the ends of each channel closed with a needle and thread so the dowels cannot slide out.

Attaching the shade to the mounting board

Cut a one-by-two-inch wooden board to the width of your finished shade. This is your mounting board. Fold the top edge of the fabric over the top of the board and staple it to the underside of the board, spacing staples about four inches apart. Pull the fabric taut as you staple so there are no wrinkles. You can also sew the fabric to the board with a needle and thread if you prefer not to use staples.

Install the mounting board above your window using a drill and wood screws into the wall studs, or use heavy-duty wall anchors if you cannot hit studs. The board should be level and find enough to support the weight of the fabric and dowels.

Adding the lift cord

The lift cord runs from the bottom of the shade up the side and across the top, allowing you to raise and lower the shade. Attach a small plastic ring or loop to the bottom corner of the shade on one side using needle and thread. Thread your lift cord (usually a thin nylon cord from a hardware store) through this ring, then run it up the side of the shade and across the top, securing it to the mounting board with small hooks or adhesive-backed cord guides.

At the top, the cord should run across the board and down the other side, ending at a cleat hook mounted on the wall or window frame. When you pull the cord, the shade will rise, and the pleats will stack neatly at the top. Tie a knot or attach a wooden dowel to the end of the cord so you have something to grip when you pull.

Finishing and adjusting

Once the shade is mounted and the cord is installed, test it by pulling the cord slowly to make sure the shade rises evenly and the pleats stack without bunching. If one side rises faster than the other, the cord may be too tight on one side—loosen it slightly by adjusting where it is secured at the top. If the pleats do not stack neatly, you may need to adjust the tension on the cord or add a small weight to the bottom of the shade to keep it from twisting.

Press the shade one more time with an iron on a low setting to crisp the pleats, then step back and admire your work. Faux roman shades take time to build, but the result is a custom window treatment that looks like it came from a professional workroom.

Frequently Asked Questions

What fabric works best for faux roman shades?

Medium-weight fabrics like linen, cotton sateen, and decorator cotton work well because they hold pleats without being too stiff or too limp. Avoid very heavy fabrics like canvas or very light fabrics like voile, which will not pleat crisply. If you want a blackout shade, use blackout fabric or line your shade with a blackout lining.

Can I make faux roman shades without a sewing machine?

You can hand-sew the pleat channels, but it will take much longer and the stitches may not be as even. A sewing machine makes the work faster and produces straighter, more durable seams. If you do not have a machine, you might consider having the channels sewn at a fabric or alterations shop.

How do I clean faux roman shades?

Most faux roman shades can be vacuumed gently with an upholstery brush attachment or dusted with a soft cloth. If the fabric is washable, you can remove the shade from the mounting board, hand-wash it in cool water with mild soap, and hang it to dry flat. Do not machine-wash or dry-clean unless the fabric label says it is safe.

What size dowel should I use in the channels?

One-quarter-inch wooden dowels are standard and work well for most shades. If your channels are wider, you can use three-eighths-inch dowels. The dowel should fit snugly in the channel without forcing—if it is too tight, it will be hard to insert and may split the fabric.

Do faux roman shades provide privacy and light control?

Faux roman shades made from regular fabric will filter light but not block it completely. If you need privacy or blackout capability, use blackout fabric or add a blackout lining to the back of your shade before you sew the pleats.