Hessian is stiff and loose-weave, so you need sharp needles, heavy thread, and a slower machine speed

Hessian (also called burlap or jute) is a coarse, open-weave fabric made from plant fibres. It frays badly, resists needle penetration, and will jam or break a standard needle. Sewing it successfully means using a size 16 or 18 needle, heavy-duty thread like upholstery or topstitching thread, and running your machine at half your normal speed. The weave is so loose that thread can slip through without catching, so tension matters more than with cotton.

Hessian is used for bags, plant pots, wall hangings, and upholstery backing. Most home sewers encounter it when making storage projects or garden items. The fabric itself is cheap and forgiving of mistakes, but the sewing technique is not forgiving of the wrong equipment.

Key Takeaways

  • Use a size 16 or 18 needle (topstitching or denim needle) and heavy-duty thread; standard needles will bend or break.
  • Reduce your machine speed to 50 to 60 percent of normal because the weave resists the needle and can jam.
  • Hessian frays at every cut edge, so finish seams with a zigzag stitch or fold and stitch the raw edge before assembly.
  • Test your tension on a scrap first—the loose weave means thread can slip, and you may need to tighten both top and bobbin tension slightly.
  • Backstitch at the start and end of every seam to lock stitches in place, because the weave will not hold them otherwise.

Choosing the right needle and thread

A standard universal needle (size 80/12 or 90/14) will bend or snap when it hits hessian's dense weave. You need a size 16 or 18 topstitching needle or a denim needle, both of which have a larger eye and a reinforced shaft. The larger eye lets heavy thread pass through without friction, and the stronger shaft resists bending under pressure.

Thread choice matters as much as the needle. Use upholstery thread, topstitching thread, or buttonhole thread—all are thicker and stronger than standard polyester. If you cannot find these, two strands of regular thread through the needle will work in a pinch, but it is slower and more prone to tangling. Match the thread colour to your hessian or choose a contrasting colour if the seams are meant to show.

Wind your bobbin by hand or at half speed. Machine-wound bobbins can pack the thread too tightly, which creates tension problems when the needle tries to pull it up.

Preparing hessian before you sew

Hessian frays aggressively because the weave is so open. Before you cut, decide whether you want raw edges (which look rustic and are acceptable on bags and plant pot covers) or finished edges. If you want finished edges, seal them before assembly.

To finish an edge, fold the raw edge over by half an inch and stitch it down with a straight stitch, or run a zigzag stitch along the raw edge to catch the loose fibres. A zigzag is faster and works well on hessian because the fabric is stiff enough to feed straight. Do this on all pieces before you join them together.

If you are making a bag or something that will be handled, finishing edges first prevents the seams from unravelling over time. If you are making a backing or something that will not be touched, raw edges are fine.

Machine settings and tension

Set your machine to a straight stitch and reduce the speed to 50 to 60 percent of normal. Hessian resists the needle, and pushing it through at full speed can jam the feed dogs or bend the needle. A slower speed gives the mechanism time to pull the fabric through without forcing.

Tension is critical. The loose weave means thread can slip through without catching, so you may need to tighten both the top tension and the bobbin tension slightly. Start with your normal settings and test on a scrap. If the top thread loops on the back, tighten the top tension by one or two numbers. If the bobbin thread loops on the front, tighten the bobbin tension slightly (turn the screw clockwise in small increments).

Use a stitch length of 2.5 to 3 mm. A shorter stitch can bunch the fabric; a longer stitch will not hold in the loose weave.

Stitching seams in hessian

Always backstitch at the start and end of every seam. Hessian will not hold stitches the way cotton does, and without backstitching, the thread will pull out under any stress. Backstitch for at least half an inch at each end.

Sew slowly and let the machine feed the fabric. Do not pull or push—let the feed dogs do the work. If you force the fabric, you risk bending the needle or jamming the mechanism. If the fabric is not feeding, check that the presser foot is down and the needle is not bent.

For seams that will take stress (like the sides of a bag), sew the seam twice—once at the normal line, then again a quarter inch away, parallel to the first seam. This double-stitching locks the weave and prevents seams from splitting.

Finishing hessian projects

Once your seams are sewn, trim loose threads and fibres with scissors. Hessian will always look a little fuzzy, and that is normal. If you want a neater look, run a lint roller over the finished piece or use a stiff brush to brush the surface in one direction.

If you are lining a hessian bag or project, sew the lining to the hessian with the same heavy needle and thread, using the same slow speed. The combination of two fabrics can be even more resistant, so do not rush.

Hessian does not need pressing, and heat can damage it if the fabric is synthetic jute. If you want to flatten seams, lay the piece flat under a heavy book for a few hours instead.

Common problems and how to fix them

If your needle keeps bending, you are using the wrong size or the fabric is bunching under the presser foot. Check that the presser foot is pressing down firmly and that you are using a size 16 or 18 needle. If the needle is bent, replace it—a bent needle will only get worse and can damage the machine.

If thread is looping on the back of the seam, your top tension is too loose. Tighten it by one or two numbers and test on a scrap. If looping appears on the front, the bobbin tension is too loose—tighten the bobbin screw slightly and test again.

If the fabric is not feeding or is bunching, slow down further and check that the feed dogs are not clogged with lint. Brush them clean with a small brush and try again. Hessian sheds fibres, so clean your machine more often than you would with cotton.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a regular needle on hessian?

Not reliably. A standard needle will bend or break because hessian's weave is too dense. A size 16 or 18 topstitching or denim needle is designed to handle heavy fabrics and will last through a whole project.

What is the difference between hessian and burlap?

They are the same thing. Hessian is the British term, burlap is American. Both refer to a coarse jute or plant-fibre fabric used for bags, backing, and industrial purposes.

Do I have to finish the edges before I sew seams?

No, but it helps. Raw edges will fray and can unravel over time, especially on items that get handled. Finishing edges first (with a zigzag or fold-and-stitch) takes 10 minutes per piece and prevents problems later.

Can I sew hessian by hand?

Yes, but it is slow and hard on your fingers. Use a heavy needle (size 5 or 6 embroidery needle) and backstitch every stitch. A machine is much faster and produces stronger seams.

Why does my thread keep breaking?

You are probably using standard thread on a heavy needle, or your tension is too tight. Use upholstery or topstitching thread, which is thicker and stronger. If the thread still breaks, loosen the top tension slightly and test on a scrap.