The basic method: whip stitch on the fold

The most common way to join hexagons is the whip stitch, which closes the seam invisibly from the outside. You fold the fabric edges inward along the seam line, pin two hexagons together with folded edges touching, and stitch through the fold of one hexagon, then through the fold of the other, working your way around the shared edge. The thread stays hidden inside the fold, so the seam does not show on either side of the finished piece.

This method works best when you have already prepared your hexagons — that is, cut them out, pressed the edges under along the seam allowance, and basted them in place with a needle and thread or a dab of fabric glue. Many quilters use paper templates pinned to the back of each hexagon to hold the fold in place while they work. Once all hexagons are joined, you remove the papers and the basting thread.

The whip stitch is slow but produces a flat, durable seam with no visible stitching. It is the standard for English paper piecing, a traditional method that requires no sewing machine.

Key Takeaways

  • The whip stitch joins hexagons by stitching through the folded edges, leaving the seam hidden on both sides of the fabric.
  • Prepare hexagons first by cutting them, pressing the edges under, and securing them with paper templates or fabric glue before you stitch.
  • Machine piecing requires sewing hexagons flat (without folding edges) along the seam line, then pressing seams open or to one side afterward.
  • Hexagons share edges in strips or rings; plan your layout before you start joining, because the order affects how pieces fit together.
  • Test your seam allowance on scrap fabric first, because even a quarter-inch difference will cause hexagons to twist or gap.

Preparing hexagons before you join them

Before you stitch, cut each hexagon to size with a quarter-inch seam allowance beyond the finished edge. If you are using paper templates, cut the paper to the finished size (without seam allowance) and pin it to the back of the fabric hexagon. Fold the fabric edges over the paper and press them flat with an iron, working one edge at a time. The paper holds the hexagon rigid and the fold stays crisp.

Once all edges are folded and pressed, you can baste the fold in place with a few small stitches or a dab of fabric glue stick along the edge. This keeps the fold from unraveling while you work and makes the whip stitch faster, because the edges stay exactly where you need them. Some quilters skip the basting and hold the fold with their fingers as they stitch, but basting saves time if you are joining many hexagons.

Whip stitching two hexagons together

Lay two prepared hexagons with their folded edges touching, right sides facing out. Pin them together along the shared edge, placing pins perpendicular to the seam so they do not get in your way as you stitch. Thread a needle with a length of thread that matches the fabric color, knot the end, and bring the needle up through the fold of one hexagon, close to a corner.

Insert the needle directly across into the fold of the second hexagon, then slide it along inside the fold for about a quarter-inch and bring it back out. Go back into the first hexagon at the point where you came out, slide the needle along inside that fold for a quarter-inch, and come back out. Repeat this back-and-forth motion along the entire edge. The stitches should be small and close together — roughly one-eighth inch apart — so the seam does not gap when you remove the paper.

When you reach the end of the edge, knot the thread on the inside and trim it. The seam should lie flat and feel firm. If it feels loose or the hexagons shift when you tug them, your stitches are too far apart or too loose; unpick and try again on a fresh edge.

Joining hexagons in strips and rings

Hexagons are usually joined in one of two patterns: strips or rings. A strip is a row of hexagons sewn edge to edge in a line; a ring is a circle of hexagons around a central point. Strips are simpler to plan and stitch, because you join them two at a time in sequence. Rings require you to join the last hexagon to the first, which can be tricky because the seam is tight and you have less room to maneuver the needle.

Before you start stitching, lay out all your hexagons on a flat surface in the pattern you want. Take a photo or draw a quick sketch so you do not forget the order. This is especially important if you are using different colors or prints, because it is straightforward to mix up which hexagon goes where once you start working.

Join hexagons in the order that makes sense for your layout. For a strip, stitch the first two together, then add the third to one edge of the second, then the fourth to the third, and so on. For a ring, stitch hexagons in a circle until you have one edge left, then join the last hexagon to the first. The final seam is the hardest because both hexagons are already surrounded by others and the space is cramped.

Machine piecing hexagons without paper

If you prefer to use a sewing machine, you can join hexagons without paper templates. Cut each hexagon with a quarter-inch seam allowance, but do not fold the edges. Lay two hexagons right sides together, align the edges you want to join, and sew along the seam line with a quarter-inch seam allowance. Use a stitch length of about 2.0 to 2.5 millimeters — short enough to hold the seam but not so short that it is hard to unpick if you make a mistake.

Machine piecing is faster than hand stitching, but it requires more precision. Your seam allowance must be exactly a quarter-inch, or the hexagons will not fit together properly. Test your seam allowance on scrap fabric first: cut two small hexagons, sew them together, and measure the distance from the stitching to the edge. If it is not exactly a quarter-inch, adjust your needle position or presser foot and test again.

After you sew each seam, press it open or to one side, depending on your preference. Open seams are flatter and less bulky; seams pressed to one side are slightly stronger. Once all hexagons are joined, the piece should lie flat. If it twists or buckles, your seam allowance is off or your stitches are uneven.

Fixing gaps and loose seams

If you notice gaps between hexagons after you remove the paper, the seam is too loose or your stitches are too far apart. Unpick the seam with a seam ripper, working carefully so you do not tear the fabric. Re-stitch the edge with smaller, tighter stitches, spacing them about one-eighth inch apart. Tighten your thread tension slightly as you work, but not so much that it puckers the fabric.

If hexagons twist or refuse to lie flat, your seam allowance may be uneven or one hexagon may be cut slightly larger than the others. Check the size of each hexagon by laying them on top of each other; they should match exactly. If one is off by even a few millimeters, trim it to match the others. If the seam allowance is the problem, you may need to unpick and re-sew with more care to the quarter-inch line.

Removing paper and finishing the edges

Once all hexagons are joined and the piece lies flat, carefully remove the paper templates from the back. Gently peel each paper away; if it is stuck, use a dab of water on a cotton swab to loosen the glue or basting thread. Do not pull hard, or you may tear the fabric seams.

The outer edges of your hexagon piece will have raw fabric showing. You can finish these edges by folding them under and whip stitching them down, or by binding them with bias tape sewn by machine. If you are using the hexagon piece as part of a larger quilt, you can leave the edges raw and cover them with a border or backing fabric.

Frequently Asked Questions

Do I have to use paper templates?

No. Paper templates make hand stitching easier because they hold the hexagon shape and keep the fold crisp, but you can stitch without them if you are careful to fold and press the edges evenly. Machine piecing does not require paper at all. Templates are most useful if you are joining many hexagons or working with slippery fabric like cotton sateen.

What thread should I use?

Use thread that matches your fabric color so the stitches do not show. All-purpose polyester or cotton thread works fine. Avoid thick thread or thread with a sheen, because it is harder to hide in the fold and can catch on the seam. A single strand is usually enough; if your thread breaks easily, use two strands twisted together.

How do I join hexagons in a honeycomb pattern?

A honeycomb is made of rings of hexagons around a central hexagon. Start with the center hexagon and stitch six hexagons around it in a ring. Then stitch a second ring of twelve hexagons around the first ring, and so on. Each new ring has more hexagons than the one before, so plan your layout carefully before you start stitching.

Can I use a rotary cutter to cut hexagons?

Yes, if you have a hexagon ruler. Lay the ruler on your fabric, align it with the grain, and cut along the edges with a rotary cutter. A ruler is faster and more accurate than scissors, especially if you are cutting many hexagons. Make sure the ruler includes seam allowance markings so you cut the right size.

What happens if my hexagons are slightly different sizes?

Even small differences will cause the piece to twist or buckle as you join them. Sort your hexagons by size and stitch only the ones that match. If you have a few that are off, trim them down with scissors or a rotary cutter to match the others. Precision matters more with hexagons than with other shapes because they have six edges that all need to fit together.