Sewing snaps is faster than hand-stitching buttons and creates a cleaner finish on children's clothes, bags, and outerwear

A snap is a two-part fastener: a ball (the raised side) and a socket (the recessed side). You sew the ball to one side of the fabric and the socket to the other. Unlike buttons, snaps sit flush against the fabric, which makes them ideal for items that need to lie flat—baby clothes, diaper bags, and jacket fronts. You can sew snaps by hand with a needle and thread, or use a snap-setting tool that crimps them in place without stitching.

Hand-sewing snaps takes about two minutes per snap and requires only thread, a needle, and the snaps themselves. Machine sewing is faster if you have a snap foot attachment, though not all machines support it. Snap-setting tools (also called snap pliers) are inexpensive and work on any fabric, but they require a small hammer or mallet and leave a permanent crimp mark on the back.

Key Takeaways

  • Hand-sewing snaps works on any fabric and machine; you stitch through the holes in the snap using a needle and thread in four or five passes.
  • Snap-setting tools crimp snaps permanently without stitching and work fastest, but require a hammer and leave visible marks on the back of the fabric.
  • The ball (raised side) goes on the top layer of fabric; the socket (recessed side) goes on the bottom layer so they interlock when pressed together.
  • Mark snap placement with a fabric pen or tailor's chalk before you start, and test the fit on scrap fabric first if you are using a tool.
  • Snaps come in metal and plastic; metal snaps are more durable for heavy-use items like outerwear, while plastic snaps work well for lightweight garments.

Hand-sewing snaps with needle and thread

Hand-sewing is the most forgiving method and works on any fabric and any sewing machine. You need a needle, thread that matches your fabric, and the snap itself. Start by marking where the snap will go on both layers of fabric using a fabric pen or tailor's chalk. Push the needle up through one of the holes in the snap from the back of the fabric, then down through the same hole. Repeat this stitch four or five times, then move to the next hole and repeat.

Use a thread color that matches your fabric, not the snap. A single strand of thread is strong enough for most snaps; you do not need to double it. After you have stitched all four holes, tie off the thread on the back of the fabric with a small knot. Trim the excess thread. The snap should not move when you tug it gently. Repeat the same process on the other layer of fabric with the matching snap piece (ball on top, socket on bottom).

Using a snap-setting tool to crimp snaps in place

A snap-setting tool (snap pliers) crimps the snap onto the fabric without any stitching. These tools cost between $8 and $25 and work on any fabric thickness. The tool has two dies—one that holds the snap in place and one that crimps it. You insert the snap into the top die, position the fabric underneath, then strike the bottom die with a hammer or mallet to crimp the snap permanently.

Before you use the tool on your actual garment, test it on a scrap of the same fabric. Place the snap on the fabric, align it in the tool's dies, and strike firmly with the hammer. The crimp should be tight enough that the snap does not move. If the crimp is loose, you struck too lightly; if the snap bends or breaks, you struck too hard. Once you find the right force, mark your snap placement on the garment with a fabric pen, then crimp each snap in order. The back of the fabric will show a small indentation where the crimp happened—this is normal and does not affect function.

Choosing between metal and plastic snaps

Metal snaps are more durable and hold up to repeated fastening and washing. They are the standard choice for children's clothes, jackets, and bags that will see heavy use. Plastic snaps are lighter and less visible, which makes them better for delicate fabrics or garments where you want the snap to be inconspicuous. Plastic snaps can crack or break if you crimp them too hard with a tool, so hand-sewing is often safer for plastic.

Snap size varies by brand and style. The most common size for garments is size 16 (about 3/8 inch across), which works on most fabrics from lightweight cotton to heavy denim. Smaller snaps (size 12) are better for baby clothes and delicate items. Larger snaps (size 20 and up) are used on heavy outerwear and upholstery. Buy snaps in sets that include both the ball and socket pieces in the quantity you need.

Marking snap placement so they line up correctly

Snaps only work if the ball and socket are directly opposite each other. Mark the placement on both layers of fabric before you start sewing or crimping. Fold the garment or bag closed the way it will be worn, then use a fabric pen or tailor's chalk to mark a small dot on the top layer where you want the snap. Unfold the fabric, then fold it the other way and mark the corresponding spot on the bottom layer. When you unfold again, you should have two marks that line up vertically.

If you are placing multiple snaps in a row (like on a jacket front), use a ruler or measuring tape to space them evenly. Mark all the snap positions on both layers before you start sewing or crimping. This prevents mistakes and makes the work go faster. If you make a mark in the wrong spot, use a damp cloth to wipe away fabric pen marks, or brush away tailor's chalk with a soft brush.

Machine-sewing snaps with a snap foot attachment

Some sewing machines come with or support a snap foot attachment that holds the snap in place while you stitch. Not all machines have this option, so check your machine's manual or contact the manufacturer to see if a snap foot is available. If your machine supports it, a snap foot makes sewing snaps faster than hand-sewing because the machine does the stitching automatically.

To use a snap foot, insert the snap into the foot's holder, position the fabric underneath, and lower the presser foot. Set your machine to a zigzag stitch with a width that matches the snap's holes (usually around 2.5 to 3.0 mm). Sew forward and backward over the snap two or three times, then raise the presser foot and move to the next snap. The zigzag stitch locks the snap in place without the need for hand-stitching. If your machine does not have a snap foot, hand-sewing is just as effective and does not require any special equipment.

Troubleshooting snaps that do not stay fastened

If a snap keeps coming undone, the ball and socket are not aligned correctly. Unfasten the garment and look at how the two pieces sit together. If there is a gap or if one side is higher than the other, the snap placement was off. You can remove the snap by cutting the stitches on the back with a seam ripper, then sew or crimp a new snap in the correct spot. If you used a snap-setting tool, you may not be able to remove the snap without damaging the fabric.

Another common problem is weak stitching. If you hand-sewed the snap and it pulls loose, the thread may not have gone through all four holes enough times. Remove the snap and re-stitch it with four or five passes through each hole. Use a knot on the back to anchor the thread, and make sure the thread is pulled snug (but not so tight that it puckers the fabric). If you used a snap-setting tool and the snap is loose, you did not crimp it hard enough—you will need to replace it with a new snap.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I sew snaps on stretchy fabric like knit or spandex?

Yes, but use a stabilizer on the back of the fabric to prevent the snap from pulling through. Cut a small square of tear-away stabilizer, pin it behind the snap placement, then sew or crimp the snap through both the fabric and the stabilizer. After you are done, tear away the excess stabilizer. This keeps the snap from sinking into the fabric or tearing it.

What is the difference between a ball and a socket snap?

The ball is the raised, rounded side; the socket is the recessed, cup-shaped side. They interlock when pressed together. The ball always goes on the top layer of fabric (the side that shows), and the socket goes on the bottom layer (the side that is hidden). If you reverse them, the snap will not hold.

How do I remove a snap that was crimped on with a tool?

Crimped snaps are permanent and cannot be removed without damaging the fabric. If you need to replace a crimped snap, use a seam ripper or small scissors to carefully cut away the old snap, then hand-sew a new one in its place. This is why testing on scrap fabric first is important when using a snap-setting tool.

Do I need to use both pieces of the snap, or can I use just the ball?

You need both pieces—the ball and the socket—for the snap to work. The ball alone will not hold anything in place. Always buy snaps in complete sets that include both halves.

Can snaps go in the washing machine and dryer?

Metal snaps can go through the washing machine and dryer without damage. Plastic snaps are also machine-safe, but they may become discolored or brittle over time with repeated heat exposure. Hand-washing and air-drying will extend the life of plastic snaps.