What You Need Before You Start
A messenger bag is a rectangular fabric pouch with a long strap that crosses your body. You can make one with basic sewing skills and a regular home machine. The project takes about four to six hours spread across two or three sessions, and uses fabric scraps you may already have.
Gather these materials: two pieces of sturdy fabric (canvas, denim, or heavy cotton) cut to 12 inches wide by 16 inches tall; two pieces of lining fabric the same size; one piece of webbing or heavy cotton strip 2 inches wide and 60 inches long for the strap; thread that matches your fabric; a magnetic snap or button for closure; and a D-ring or metal loop if you want an attachment point.
You will also need a sewing machine, scissors, pins, a measuring tape, and an iron. A walking foot on your machine helps when sewing through thick layers, but is not required. If you do not have webbing, you can make a strap by folding and sewing two strips of fabric together.
Key Takeaways
- Cut your outer fabric and lining to 12 by 16 inches, then sew the outer pieces together on three sides, leaving the top open.
- Attach the strap to the outer fabric before you close the bag, positioning it so the bag hangs at hip level when worn.
- Sew the lining separately, then insert it into the outer bag with right sides facing, and stitch around the top opening to finish the edge.
- A magnetic snap sewn into the flap closure keeps the bag closed without a visible button or zipper.
- Reinforce stress points like the strap attachment and bottom corners with a second row of stitching.
Cutting and Preparing Your Fabric
Lay out your outer fabric on a flat surface and measure two rectangles, each 12 inches wide by 16 inches tall. Use a ruler and a fabric marker or chalk to draw the lines, then cut carefully with sharp scissors. Repeat with your lining fabric. Press all four pieces with an iron on medium heat to remove wrinkles—this makes sewing straighter seams.
If you are using webbing for the strap, cut it to 60 inches long. If you are making a strap from fabric, cut two strips 4 inches wide by 60 inches long. Fold each strip in half lengthwise with right sides together, sew along the long edge with a half-inch seam allowance, then turn it right-side out and press flat. Topstitch along both long edges to reinforce it.
Cut a piece of webbing or fabric 3 inches wide by 4 inches tall for the flap. This will fold over the top of the bag and hold your magnetic snap. Press it in half lengthwise.
Sewing the Outer Bag Body
Place your two outer fabric pieces with right sides together (the pretty sides facing each other). Pin around three sides, leaving the top 12-inch edge open. Sew with a half-inch seam allowance along the bottom and both sides. Use a backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam to lock the thread. Trim the corners diagonally to reduce bulk when you turn the bag right-side out.
Turn the bag right-side out through the open top. Use a blunt tool like a wooden spoon handle to push the corners out fully. Press the bag flat with an iron, paying special attention to the seams. Fold the raw edges at the top opening inward by half an inch and press them down—this prepares the opening for the final seam.
Before you close the bag, you need to attach the strap. Position the strap ends on the inside of the bag, one on each side, about 2 inches down from the top opening. Pin them in place. Sew a rectangle around each strap end, about 1 inch by 2 inches, then sew an X through the rectangle for extra strength. This prevents the strap from tearing away under weight.
Attaching the Strap and Flap
The strap should hang so the bag sits at your hip when you wear it across your body. To test the length, hold the bag at your hip and drape the strap over your opposite shoulder. The strap should not pull or sag. If it does, adjust where you pinned it before sewing. Most people find that pinning the strap ends 2 to 3 inches down from the top works well.
Fold your flap piece in half with right sides together and sew along the two short ends and one long end, leaving one long edge open. Turn it right-side out and press. Slide the open edge between the two outer fabric pieces at the center top of the bag, with the folded edge pointing downward. Pin it in place so it will be caught in the seam when you attach the lining.
Making and Inserting the Lining
Sew your two lining pieces together the same way you sewed the outer bag: right sides together, half-inch seam allowance, three sides closed, one side open at the top. Do not turn this lining right-side out yet. Leave it inside-out.
Slide the lining inside the outer bag, so the wrong sides of both bags are touching. The lining should fit snugly inside. Pin around the top opening, making sure the flap is sandwiched between the outer fabric and the lining. Sew around the entire top opening with a half-inch seam allowance. This seam holds the lining in place and finishes the raw edges at the top of the bag.
Reach inside the lining and pull the outer bag up and out through the opening in the lining. The bag is now right-side out with the lining tucked inside. Fold the raw edges of the lining opening inward by half an inch and press. Topstitch around the top of the bag, about a quarter-inch from the edge. This seam is both decorative and functional—it holds the lining in place permanently.
Adding Closure and Final Details
A magnetic snap is the easiest closure for a messenger bag. Buy a snap kit from a fabric or craft store—it comes with two metal discs and instructions. Install one disc on the inside of the flap, centered about an inch from the folded edge. Install the other disc on the front of the bag, centered about an inch below the top opening. Follow the kit instructions for setting the discs; most use a small hammer and a special tool.
If you prefer a button, sew a button to the front of the bag and add a buttonhole to the flap. If you want an attachment point for keys or a carabiner, sew a D-ring or metal loop to the inside of the bag near the top, using the same reinforcement rectangle method you used for the strap.
Inspect all seams, especially where the strap attaches and where the bottom corners meet. If any seam looks loose, sew over it again. Trim any loose threads with scissors. Your bag is now ready to use.
Common Mistakes and How to Avoid Them
The most common error is attaching the strap too high on the bag. If the strap is sewn near the very top, the bag will tip forward when you wear it. Test the strap position before sewing by holding the bag at your hip and draping the strap over your shoulder. The bag should hang straight and feel balanced.
Another mistake is using fabric that is too thin. Canvas or denim holds its shape and wears well. Lightweight cotton or quilting fabric will sag and wear through at stress points. If you only have thin fabric, sew two layers together or use interfacing to add body.
Skipping the reinforcement stitching at the strap attachment is a third common problem. The strap carries the weight of everything in the bag. A single row of stitching will eventually tear. Always sew a rectangle and an X through the strap ends, and consider adding a second row of stitching along the entire length where the strap meets the bag.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a zipper instead of a magnetic snap?
Yes. Install a zipper along the top opening instead of a flap and snap. You will need a 12-inch zipper. Sew it to the top edges of the outer fabric before you attach the lining. This requires more precision than a snap, but zippers are durable and find.
What fabric weight should I use?
Use fabric that is at least 10 ounces per square yard. Canvas, denim, and heavy cotton work well. Avoid lightweight quilting cotton or calico—they will not hold the bag's shape. If you want to use thinner fabric, back it with interfacing or sew two layers together.
How do I make the strap more comfortable?
Wider straps distribute weight better than narrow ones. Make your strap 3 to 4 inches wide instead of 2 inches. You can also add padding by inserting a layer of foam or fleece inside the strap before you sew it closed. This reduces shoulder strain when the bag is full.
What if my bag is lopsided after I finish it?
This usually means the strap is uneven or the fabric shifted during sewing. Check that both strap ends are the same distance from the top of the bag. If the bag itself is crooked, you can adjust it slightly by pressing it with an iron and pinning it to the correct shape while it cools.
Can I add pockets inside the bag?
Yes. Before you insert the lining, sew a pocket to one of the lining pieces. Make the pocket from lining fabric, about 6 inches wide by 8 inches tall. Sew it to the inside of one lining piece, then proceed with assembling the bag as normal. The pocket will be hidden inside the finished bag.