Mittens are simpler to sew than gloves because fingers stay together
Mittens take less time and fewer seams than gloves because your fingers share one compartment instead of each getting their own. You can sew a pair in an afternoon using a basic running stitch by hand or a straight stitch on a machine. The core steps are the same either way: cut two identical pieces for each mitten, sew three sides closed, turn the fabric right-side out, and bind the opening with elastic or a cuff.
The easiest route for a first pair is to start with a pattern you can print or trace, use two layers of fleece or flannel (which don't fray much), and sew by machine. Hand-sewing works just as well but takes longer and requires more patience with the running stitch. Either method produces mittens that keep hands warm and last through a season of regular use.
Key Takeaways
- Cut two identical mitten shapes from your fabric, adding a half-inch seam allowance on all sides.
- Sew three sides of each mitten closed using a running stitch by hand or a straight stitch on a machine, leaving the wrist opening unsewn.
- Turn the mitten right-side out through the wrist opening, then press flat with an iron to set the seams.
- Finish the wrist opening with a cuff of ribbed fabric or by folding and stitching the raw edges down.
- Fleece and flannel are forgiving fabrics for beginners because they don't fray and hide imperfect stitches.
Gather fabric, thread, and a pattern before you start
You need fabric, thread, a needle or machine, scissors, and a pattern. For fabric, choose something warm and not too thick—fleece, flannel, wool, or cotton blends all work. Avoid denim or canvas for your first pair because they're hard to push a needle through by hand. You'll need two layers for each mitten, so buy enough for four mitten pieces plus a little extra for the cuff.
Thread should match your fabric color or be close enough that mismatches don't show. A needle for hand-sewing should be medium-sized (size 7 or 8) and have an eye large enough for your thread. If you're using a machine, use the needle that came with it or a universal needle in size 80/12.
For a pattern, search online for "free mitten pattern" and print one, or trace your own hand on paper—make the outline about half an inch wider than your actual hand, then round the corners and extend the wrist section down about three inches. Tape the paper pattern to your fabric and cut around it with sharp scissors.
Cut and mark your fabric pieces
Lay your fabric flat and place the pattern on top. Cut around the pattern, then flip it over and cut a second identical piece for the back of the mitten. Do this twice more so you have four pieces total—two for the left mitten, two for the right. If your fabric has a right side and a wrong side (fleece does), make sure you're cutting with the right side facing up so both pieces match.
Before you sew, mark where you'll leave the opening. Use a pencil or fabric pen to draw a light line along the wrist edge—this is where you'll stop sewing and leave a gap so you can turn the mitten right-side out later. The opening should be about two inches wide, roughly in the middle of the wrist edge.
Sew three sides of each mitten closed
By machine: Place two mitten pieces with the right sides facing each other (the pretty sides touching). Pin around the edges to hold them in place. Set your machine to a straight stitch with medium length. Starting at one end of the wrist opening, sew along the edge with a half-inch seam allowance, following your marked line. Stop sewing when you reach the other end of the opening, then backstitch to lock the thread. Remove the pins and repeat with the other two pieces to make the second mitten.
By hand: Place two pieces right sides together and pin them. Thread your needle and tie a knot at the end. Starting at one end of the wrist opening, push the needle through both layers from back to front, then bring it back through about a quarter-inch away. Continue this running stitch all the way around, keeping your stitches even and your seam allowance consistent. When you reach the other end of the opening, tie off the thread with a knot on the inside. Repeat for the second mitten.
Turn the mittens right-side out and press them flat
Reach through the wrist opening you left unsewn and gently pull the fabric inside-out through the hole. The right side of the fabric should now be facing outward. Use your fingers to push the corners and edges out so the mitten holds its shape. If the seams are bunched, use a blunt tool like a wooden spoon handle to gently push them into place.
Once both mittens are turned, lay them flat on an ironing board and press with a warm iron to set the seams and remove wrinkles. This step makes the mittens look finished and helps the fabric hold its shape. Be careful not to melt the fabric if you're using fleece—use a low to medium heat setting.
Finish the wrist opening with a cuff or binding
The wrist opening needs to be closed and finished so the raw edges don't fray and your hand doesn't slip out. The easiest method is to fold the raw edges inward by about a quarter-inch, pin them, and stitch them closed by hand or machine. This creates a straightforward, clean edge.
A more polished finish is to add a cuff of ribbed fabric—the stretchy knit used on the ends of sleeves. Cut a strip of ribbed fabric about two inches wide and long enough to wrap around the wrist opening with a half-inch overlap. Fold it in half lengthwise and pin it around the inside of the wrist opening so the fold faces outward. Sew it down with a quarter-inch seam allowance, then fold it to the outside and stitch again to find it. This creates a professional-looking edge that stretches as you put the mittens on.
If you don't have ribbed fabric, you can sew a length of elastic into the wrist opening instead. Cut elastic about half an inch wide and slightly shorter than the wrist opening. Pin it inside the opening and sew it down with a zigzag stitch if your machine has one, or a regular stitch if not. The elastic will gather the fabric slightly and keep the mittens snug.
Reinforce seams and add details if you want them
Once the cuff is done, your mittens are wearable. If you want them to last longer, you can reinforce the seams by sewing over them a second time, especially where the thumb meets the palm—this area gets the most stress. Use a backstitch by hand or a straight stitch on the machine, staying just inside your original seam line.
Optional details include sewing a loop of ribbon or cord to the inside of the wrist so you can clip the mittens together, or adding a layer of fleece to the palm for extra grip. You can also embroider initials or a straightforward design on the back of the hand if you want to personalize them. These additions don't change how the mittens work, but they make them feel more finished.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I sew mittens without a pattern?
Yes. Trace your hand on paper, make the outline half an inch wider all around, round the corners, and extend the wrist section down three inches. This creates a usable pattern. The fit won't be perfect, but mittens are forgiving—they stretch slightly as you wear them.
What's the difference between hand-sewing and machine-sewing mittens?
Machine-sewing is faster and produces straighter seams, but hand-sewing gives you more control and works anywhere. Both methods produce mittens that work equally well. Hand-sewing takes about twice as long and requires more arm strength to push the needle through thick fabric.
Why do my mittens feel stiff after sewing?
New fabric is often stiff from manufacturing. Wash the mittens in warm water with mild soap, then dry them flat or on low heat. They'll soften after a few washes and wears. Fleece and flannel soften faster than wool or canvas.
Can I add a lining to make mittens warmer?
Yes. Cut four additional pieces from a warm lining fabric like fleece or flannel, sew them together the same way you sewed the outer mittens, then slide the lining inside the finished mitten and stitch it to the cuff. This adds warmth and makes the mittens more durable because the lining protects the outer fabric from wear.
What do I do if my seams come apart after I start wearing them?
Seams usually come apart because the thread wasn't strong enough or the stitches were too far apart. Repair by sewing over the broken seam with a backstitch by hand or a straight stitch on a machine, overlapping the old seam by about half an inch on each side. Use thread that matches your fabric so the repair doesn't show.