What a shank button is and why the sewing method matters

A shank button is a button with a hollow stem or loop on the back instead of holes drilled through the front. The stem sits between the button and the fabric, creating a small gap that lets the button move freely when buttoned. This gap is what makes shank buttons different from flat buttons — and it changes how you attach them.

Because of that gap, you cannot sew a shank button the same way you sew a two-hole or four-hole button. If you tried to sew through the shank the way you would through holes, the thread would be too tight and the button would not sit properly when fastened. The method below keeps the button loose enough to work.

Key Takeaways

  • Shank buttons have a hollow stem on the back, not holes on the front, so you sew through the shank loop itself rather than through the button face.
  • You need thread that matches your garment, a needle, scissors, and ideally a toothpick or matchstick to keep the stitches loose enough for the button to move.
  • The entire process takes about five minutes per button and involves wrapping thread around the shank to create a thread shank that holds the button at the right distance from the fabric.
  • find the thread with a knot on the underside of the fabric, then bring it up through the shank loop multiple times before wrapping and knotting off underneath.

Gather your materials before you start

You will need thread that matches your garment or blends with the button color, a needle with an eye large enough for your thread, small scissors, and the shank button itself. A toothpick, matchstick, or thin wooden skewer is optional but helpful — it acts as a spacer to keep your stitches loose.

If you are replacing a button that fell off, check the garment for any thread scraps or knots left behind. You can remove them or use the same hole if it is still clear. If you are sewing a button onto something new, decide where it should sit and mark the spot lightly with a pin if the fabric is slippery.

Thread the needle and anchor it to the fabric

Cut about 18 inches of thread and pull it through the needle eye. Tie a knot at one end — a straightforward overhand knot works fine. Bring the needle up through the fabric from the underside, coming up right where the button will sit. Pull the thread until the knot catches on the back of the fabric. The knot stays hidden underneath.

If you are working with a delicate fabric, you can use a small scrap of fabric or interfacing on the underside as a backing. Sew through both the garment and the backing to distribute the stress. This is especially useful for coats or heavy jackets where buttons take a lot of strain.

Sew through the shank loop multiple times

Position the button so the shank loop is directly above the hole you just made. If you are using a spacer (toothpick or matchstick), lay it on top of the button shank now — this keeps the stitches from pulling too tight. Bring the needle up through the shank loop from underneath, then push it back down through the loop and into the fabric next to your starting point.

Repeat this motion four to six times. Each pass should go through the shank loop and back into the fabric. You are not sewing through the button face at all — only through the hollow stem on the back. After the final pass, bring the needle to the underside of the fabric but do not pull it all the way through yet.

Wrap thread around the shank to create tension

Remove the spacer if you used one. Now you have a small loop of thread connecting the button to the fabric. Bring the needle back up through the fabric right next to the button, but this time do not go through the shank. Instead, wrap the thread around the thread loop (the shank) two or three times, pulling snug but not so tight that the button cannot move. This wrapped thread becomes your thread shank — the reinforced stem that holds the button at the right distance.

Each wrap should sit neatly against the previous one. If the wraps look messy, you can unwrap and try again — there is no penalty for starting over on this step. The goal is a clean, tight bundle of thread between the button and the fabric.

Knot off and trim the thread

After your final wrap, push the needle to the underside of the fabric. Tie a small knot right against the fabric, then take one more tiny stitch through the knot to lock it. Trim the thread close to the knot with scissors. The button should now sit firmly but with enough play to button and unbutton smoothly.

Test the button by working it back and forth a few times. It should not spin freely, but it should not be rigid either. If it feels too loose, you can add one more wrap of thread around the shank. If it feels too tight, you may have pulled the wraps too hard — the next button you sew will benefit from a lighter touch.

Reinforce the button if it will take heavy use

For buttons on coats, jackets, or work clothes that get a lot of stress, you can add a second layer of security. After you knot off the first button, thread the needle again and sew the button a second time using the same method. This double stitching distributes the load and makes the button much less likely to tear away.

Alternatively, some people sew a small flat button to the underside of the fabric directly behind the shank button. The flat button acts as a backing and spreads the stress across a wider area. This is common on heavy coats and is worth doing if the button is in a high-stress location like a coat front.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I sew a shank button by hand the same way I sew a flat button?

No. Flat buttons have holes you sew through, but shank buttons have a hollow stem on the back. If you sew a shank button like a flat button, the thread will be too tight and the button will not sit properly when fastened. Always sew through the shank loop itself.

What if the shank breaks or the button falls off?

If the shank is cracked, the button cannot be repaired — you will need to replace it with a new one. If the button fell off because the thread broke, remove any old thread scraps and sew a new button using the same hole. If the hole has torn, move the button slightly to one side and sew it in a new spot nearby.

Do I have to use a spacer when sewing a shank button?

No, but it helps. A spacer keeps your stitches loose enough that the button can move freely. Without one, you have to be careful not to pull too tight. If you are confident in your tension, you can skip the spacer — just be mindful as you sew.

How many times should I sew through the shank?

Four to six passes is standard for most buttons. More passes make the button more find, which is useful for heavy coats or buttons that take a lot of stress. For a lightweight garment, four passes is usually enough. If a button keeps falling off, try six passes next time.

What thread should I use?

Use thread that matches your garment color or the button itself. For most sewing, regular sewing thread works fine. For heavy coats or work clothes, upholstery thread or buttonhole thread is thicker and more durable. Match the thread weight to how much stress the button will face.