Measure your ottoman and cut fabric pieces
Start by measuring your ottoman in three directions: length, width, and height. Write these down. You will need fabric for the top, bottom, and four sides. Add one inch to each measurement for seam allowance — this is the space between the edge of the fabric and the stitching line where two pieces join.
Cut your main fabric into five rectangles: one for the top, one for the bottom, and four for the sides. If your ottoman is square, the side pieces will all be the same size. If it is rectangular, two opposite sides will match each other, and the other two will match each other. Cut a sixth piece from contrasting fabric or the same fabric if you want a zipper panel on the bottom — this makes the cover removable for washing.
Lay out all your pieces on a flat surface before you sew anything. This step catches mistakes before needle meets thread. Check that opposite sides are the same width and that the top and bottom are the same size.
Key Takeaways
- Measure your ottoman's length, width, and height, then add one inch to each measurement for seam allowance before cutting fabric.
- Sew the four side pieces to each other first using a straight stitch, then attach the top and bottom pieces last.
- A zipper sewn into the bottom panel lets you remove the cover for washing without taking apart the whole seam.
- Backstitch at the start and end of every seam to lock the thread and prevent unraveling.
- Press seams flat with an iron after sewing each joint to make the cover lie smooth and look finished.
Sew the side pieces together in order
Lay two side pieces right sides together — this means the pretty sides of the fabric face each other, and the back sides face out. Pin along one long edge, placing pins every four inches. Set your sewing machine to a straight stitch with a stitch length of 2.5 millimeters, which is standard for cotton and most home-sewing fabrics.
Sew along the pinned edge, removing pins as you approach them. Backstitch at the start and end of the seam by sewing backward three or four stitches, then forward again. This locks the thread so it will not unravel when the cover is used. Sew all four side pieces together in a ring, so you end up with one long tube of fabric.
After each seam, press it flat with an iron on medium heat. This flattens the seam allowance and makes the next step easier. Open the tube and look at it from the inside — the seams should be straight and even.
Attach the top and bottom panels
Place the tube of side fabric right side up on a flat surface. Lay the top panel right side down on top of it, lining up the edges. Pin all the way around, then sew with a straight stitch. Backstitch at the start and end. Press the seam flat.
Flip the cover right side out through the bottom opening. The top should now be permanently attached. Lay the bottom panel right side down over the opening, pin it, and sew it the same way. Leave a gap of six inches in one seam if you want to turn the cover right side out and stuff it — but if you are covering an ottoman that is already assembled, you do not need to do this.
If you left a gap, turn the cover right side out through that opening, then fold the raw edges of the gap inward and sew it closed by hand using a ladder stitch, which is invisible from the outside.
Install a zipper for a removable cover
A zipper in the bottom seam lets you slide the cover off without cutting threads. Cut your bottom panel into two pieces, leaving a gap of about eight inches between them. Sew a zipper to the raw edges of this gap using a zipper foot, which is a special presser foot that lets the needle get close to the zipper teeth.
Lay the zipper face down on one piece of the bottom panel, with the zipper tape aligned to the raw edge. Sew along the edge of the zipper tape using the zipper foot. Flip the zipper over and sew the other side to the second piece of the bottom panel. When you sew the bottom panel to the side tube, the zipper will be caught in the seam and will work smoothly.
Test the zipper before you finish. It should slide easily and not catch the fabric. If it catches, gently work it back and forth until it moves freely.
Finish raw edges to prevent fraying
Raw fabric edges will fray and unravel over time, especially on a cover that gets removed and washed. Trim any loose threads with scissors. If your sewing machine has a serger stitch or overlock stitch, use it on all the seams inside the cover — this stitch wraps thread around the edge and seals it.
If your machine does not have this stitch, use a zigzag stitch instead. Set the stitch width to 3 millimeters and length to 2 millimeters, then sew along each seam allowance edge. This is slower than a serger stitch but works just as well. You can also bind the edges with bias tape, which is a narrow strip of fabric folded in half and sewn over the raw edge for a polished look.
Add piping or trim for a finished look
Piping is a thin cord wrapped in fabric and sewn into a seam. It adds a tailored edge and hides the seam line. You can buy pre-made piping at fabric stores, or make your own by wrapping bias tape around a cord and sewing it closed.
To attach piping, lay it along the edge of the top panel before you sew the top to the side tube. The piping should sit between the two fabric pieces, with the cord facing outward. Sew through all three layers — the top panel, the piping, and the side tube. When you flip the cover right side out, the piping will frame the edge.
Trim is simpler: sew it to the finished edge of the cover by hand or machine after all the seams are complete. Lace, ribbon, or decorative stitching all work. This step is optional but makes a basic cover look handmade and intentional.
Press and fit the cover on your ottoman
Once all seams are sewn and finished, press the entire cover with an iron on medium heat. Pay special attention to the corners and edges — a well-pressed cover will fit smoothly and look crisp. If you used a zipper, open it fully before pressing.
Slide the cover onto your ottoman. It should fit snugly without bunching or sagging. If it is too loose, you can take in the seams by sewing a new line one-quarter inch closer to the edge on the inside, then trimming the old seam allowance. If it is too tight, let out the seams by opening them and sewing a new line one-quarter inch farther from the edge.
Small adjustments are normal. Ottoman shapes vary, and fabric stretches slightly during sewing. Once the fit is right, your cover is ready to use.
Frequently Asked Questions
What fabric works best for an ottoman cover?
Cotton canvas, upholstery cotton, and linen are durable and straightforward to sew. Avoid stretchy fabrics like jersey or knits unless you have experience — they require special needles and techniques. Check the fabric weight: anything labeled "home decor" or "upholstery" will hold up to regular use better than quilting cotton.
Do I need a special needle for ottoman fabric?
A size 80/12 or 90/14 universal needle works for most cotton and linen. If your fabric is thick or tightly woven, use a size 100/16. Change your needle after every eight hours of sewing or if it bends — a dull needle causes skipped stitches and puckered seams.
Can I sew an ottoman cover by hand?
Yes, but it takes much longer. Use a backstitch, which is the strongest hand stitch. Make stitches one-quarter inch long and keep them even. A machine stitch is faster and stronger, but hand sewing works if you have the time and patience.
What if my ottoman has a curved top?
Measure the curve by laying a flexible measuring tape over it. Cut the top panel to that exact shape, then clip small notches into the seam allowance of the side pieces where they meet the curve. These notches let the fabric bend without bunching. Sew slowly around the curve and backstitch frequently.
How do I keep the cover from sliding off?
Sew elastic to the underside of the bottom panel, or add small loops of fabric to the corners that hook under the ottoman legs. Alternatively, make the cover slightly snug so friction holds it in place. A zipper bottom also prevents sliding because the cover is fully enclosed.