Pajama shorts are the easiest garment to start with if you have basic sewing skills
Pajama shorts need only four seams, an elastic waistband, and a hem. You do not need a pattern — you can draft one from a pair of shorts that fit you well, or use a commercial pattern from a brand like Simplicity or McCall's. The whole project takes four to six hours for a beginner, including cutting and pressing. You will need fabric (cotton knit or woven works best), elastic, thread, and a sewing machine.
The core steps are: measure and cut two front pieces and two back pieces, sew the inseams and side seams, attach elastic to the waistband, and hem the legs. If you have sewn a pillowcase or a straightforward skirt, you have the skills to finish shorts.
Key Takeaways
- Draft your pattern by laying a well-fitting pair of shorts flat, tracing around them with a half-inch seam allowance, and adding length if you want longer shorts.
- Cut two front pieces and two back pieces from your fabric, making sure the grain line runs straight down the leg.
- Sew the inseams first (inside of each leg), then the side seams, pressing after each seam to keep edges flat.
- Fold the waistband down one inch, insert elastic, and sew it in place with a zigzag stitch so it stretches without breaking.
- Hem the leg openings by folding up half an inch twice and stitching with a straight stitch or stretch stitch.
How to draft a pattern from shorts you already own
Lay a pair of shorts that fit you well on a flat surface. Smooth out any wrinkles. Place a large piece of paper underneath and trace around the outline of the shorts with a pencil, staying about half an inch away from the edge — this half inch is your seam allowance. Trace the crotch curve carefully, as this is where fit matters most.
Mark the grain line (the direction the fabric should run) by drawing a straight line down the center of each leg, parallel to the inseam. Label which piece is the front and which is the back. If you want shorts longer than the pair you traced, extend the leg length on your pattern before cutting. Add a one-inch allowance at the waistband for the elastic casing.
Cut out your pattern pieces and lay them on your fabric. Pin them down and cut around them, transferring the grain line marks to your fabric with tailor's chalk or a fabric pencil.
Choosing fabric and preparing it for cutting
Cotton knit (jersey or interlock) and cotton woven (poplin, quilting cotton) are both good choices for pajama shorts. Knit is softer and more forgiving; woven is easier to sew straight if you are new to sewing. Avoid very stretchy fabrics like lycra blends until you have made one pair, because they require a stretch needle and a stretch stitch.
Buy one and a half to two yards of fabric, depending on the length of your shorts. Before you cut, wash and dry the fabric the same way you will wash the finished shorts — this prevents shrinking later. Press the fabric flat with an iron to remove wrinkles and folds.
Lay the fabric on a cutting mat or a clean table. Pin your pattern pieces to the fabric, making sure the grain lines run straight. Use a rotary cutter and ruler, or scissors, to cut around the pattern. Cut slowly and keep the blade perpendicular to the fabric so the edges are clean.
Sewing the inseams and side seams
An inseam is the seam that runs up the inside of each leg. Place two leg pieces with the right sides together (the pretty sides facing each other). Pin along the inseam from the crotch to the ankle. Sew with a straight stitch, using a quarter-inch seam allowance or the width your machine marks on the throat plate. Backstitch at the start and end to lock the thread.
Repeat for the other leg. Press both inseams flat with an iron, pressing the seam allowance to one side (usually toward the back). Now you have two tube-shaped legs.
Place the two legs with right sides together and pin the side seams — the seams that run along the outside of the hips and thighs. Sew both side seams with a straight stitch, backstitching at the start and end. Press both side seams flat. You now have one shorts-shaped tube.
Attaching elastic to the waistband
Fold the top edge of the shorts down one inch toward the inside, with the wrong side of the fabric facing out. Press this fold flat with an iron. Sew around the waistband one quarter inch from the folded edge, leaving a two-inch opening so you can thread the elastic through.
Measure your waist and subtract one inch. Cut a piece of elastic (one-inch wide works well for pajamas) to this length. Attach a safety pin to one end of the elastic and thread it through the opening you left, working it all the way around the waistband until both ends come out the opening.
Overlap the two ends of the elastic by half an inch and sew them together with a zigzag stitch, going back and forth several times so the join is strong. Push the elastic back inside the casing. Sew the opening closed with a straight stitch or a ladder stitch (an invisible stitch that closes the gap from the inside). Press the waistband flat.
Hemming the leg openings
Fold the bottom edge of one leg up by half an inch, with the wrong side of the fabric facing out. Press this fold flat. Fold it up another half inch and press again. This double fold hides the raw edge and keeps it from fraying. Pin the hem in place.
Sew the hem with a straight stitch, staying close to the inner fold. Use a stretch stitch if your machine has one and your fabric is knit, because it will move with the fabric when you wear the shorts. Backstitch at the start and end. Repeat for the other leg.
Press all hems flat. Try on the shorts and check the fit at the waist, hips, and legs. If the waistband is too tight or too loose, you can unpick the elastic casing, adjust the elastic length, and re-sew it.
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
The most common mistake is sewing the inseams and side seams in the wrong order, which twists the shorts. Always sew the inseams first (one leg at a time), then sew the side seams. This keeps the grain line straight.
Another mistake is cutting the fabric without a grain line, which causes the legs to twist or the waistband to sit crooked. Always mark and follow the grain line on your pattern and transfer it to your fabric before cutting.
Elastic that is too tight causes the waistband to bunch and roll. Elastic that is too loose falls down. Measure your waist, subtract one inch, and cut the elastic to that length. If the shorts still do not fit after you finish, you can always adjust the elastic by unpicking the casing and replacing it.
Hems that are uneven happen when you do not press them flat before sewing. Press each fold with an iron and pin it in place before you sew. Sew slowly and keep the presser foot parallel to the fold.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need a serger to sew pajama shorts?
No. A serger finishes the raw edges so they do not fray, but it is not necessary for pajama shorts. A regular sewing machine and a straight stitch are enough. If you want to finish the seams, you can use a zigzag stitch on a regular machine to prevent fraying.
What kind of elastic should I use?
One-inch-wide braided or knit elastic works best for pajama waistbands. Avoid thin elastic (under half an inch), which digs into the skin. Avoid very thick elastic, which is hard to thread through the casing. Test the elastic by stretching it — it should stretch and return to its original length without tearing.
Can I use a pattern from the internet instead of tracing my own shorts?
Yes. Simplicity, McCall's, and Butterick all sell paper patterns for pajama shorts at fabric stores or online. read patterns are also available from sites like Etsy. Print the pattern at the size specified and test the fit by cutting it from scrap fabric first, then adjusting the seams if needed before cutting your final fabric.
What should I do if my shorts are too tight after I finish them?
If the waistband is too tight, unpick the elastic casing, remove the elastic, and replace it with a longer piece. If the legs are too tight, you cannot easily fix them without taking apart the side seams. This is why tracing a well-fitting pair of shorts is important — it prevents this problem.
How do I prevent the elastic from rolling or twisting inside the casing?
Sew the elastic casing with a zigzag stitch instead of a straight stitch. The zigzag allows the elastic to move and stretch without bunching. You can also sew a second line of stitching down the middle of the casing to keep the elastic centered, though this is optional for pajamas.