Sewing a placemat takes about an hour and requires only a needle, thread, fabric, and scissors
A placemat is a rectangle of fabric, usually finished on all edges, that protects your table from spills and heat. The simplest version is two pieces of fabric sewn together with the raw edges turned inward — no special skills needed. You can make a set of four placemats in an afternoon using fabric scraps or a single yard of material from any fabric store.
The basic process is: cut two rectangles of fabric to size, pin them together with right sides facing, sew three sides closed, turn the whole thing inside-out through the opening, press it flat, and sew the opening shut. That final seam is visible, so it matters that it looks neat — but neatness comes from going slowly, not from experience.
Key Takeaways
- A placemat is typically 12 to 14 inches wide and 18 to 20 inches long, though you can make yours any size.
- You need two pieces of fabric cut to the same size, thread that matches or contrasts with your fabric, and a needle or sewing machine.
- The easiest method is to sew three sides with right sides together, turn it inside-out, and sew the fourth side closed by hand or machine.
- Pressing with an iron after turning makes the edges crisp and makes the final seam easier to sew straight.
- Topstitching — a visible seam sewn close to the edge — adds durability and looks intentional rather than like a repair.
Choosing your fabric and cutting the pieces
Pick a fabric that can handle heat and washing. Cotton quilting fabric, linen, or canvas work well. Avoid thin fabrics like silk or jersey — they fray easily and don't hold their shape. A single yard of 45-inch-wide fabric makes four placemats with room to spare.
Cut two rectangles for each placemat. Standard size is 13 inches wide by 19 inches long, but you can go smaller (11 by 17) or larger (15 by 21) depending on your table and preference. Use a ruler and a rotary cutter if you have one, or mark your lines with a pencil and cut with scissors. Both pieces must be exactly the same size.
If your fabric frays badly, you can cut pieces slightly larger and trim them after sewing, but this adds a step. Most cotton doesn't fray enough to matter for a placemat.
Pinning and sewing three sides
Lay one rectangle on top of the other with the right sides facing each other — the pretty side of one piece against the pretty side of the other. This is the most common mistake: beginners often sew with wrong sides together and end up with seams on the outside.
Pin around all four edges, placing pins about 2 inches apart. Leave one short end unpinned — this is your opening for turning the placemat inside-out later. A 3-inch opening is enough.
Thread your needle or load your machine. If you're hand-sewing, use a running stitch or backstitch, staying about half an inch from the edge. If you're using a machine, use a straight stitch at a medium speed. Sew three complete sides, stopping at the opening. Backstitch at the start and end of each seam to lock the thread. Remove pins as you go.
Turning and pressing the placemat
Once three sides are sewn, trim the corners diagonally — cut off the corner fabric at a 45-degree angle, about a quarter inch from the seam. This keeps the corners from bunching when you turn the placemat right-side-out. Don't cut into the seam itself.
Reach through the opening and grab the fabric inside, then pull the whole placemat through the hole. It will turn inside-out as you pull. This takes patience — go slowly and work the corners out gently with your fingers or a blunt tool like a chopstick.
Once it's turned, press the placemat flat with an iron on medium heat. Pay special attention to the edges — a crisp edge makes the final seam look professional. Press the opening flat too, folding the raw edges inward by half an inch on each side.
Closing the opening and adding topstitching
You now have three options for closing the opening: hand-sew it with a ladder stitch (nearly invisible), hand-sew it with a running stitch (visible but straightforward), or machine-sew it close to the edge.
For a ladder stitch by hand, thread a needle and knot the end. Bring the needle out through the fold of fabric on one side of the opening. Slide the needle inside the fold for about half an inch, then come back out. Cross to the opposite side and repeat, going back and forth. Pull the thread gently every few stitches to close the gap. This stitch is nearly invisible from the outside.
For a machine-sewn closing, fold the opening edges inward and pin them closed. Sew close to the edge, about a quarter inch in. This seam will be visible, which is fine — it looks intentional.
Once the opening is closed, you can add topstitching around all four edges if you want. Topstitching is a visible seam sewn about a quarter inch from the edge, all the way around. It adds durability, prevents fraying, and looks like a finished product rather than a homemade one. Use thread that matches your fabric or contrasts with it on purpose.
Finishing touches and care
Wash your finished placemats in warm water with mild detergent before using them. This shrinks the fabric slightly and sets the seams. Dry them flat or on low heat in the dryer.
If you're making a set, consider using the same fabric for all four or mixing coordinating prints. Placemats wear out faster than most sewn items because they get washed often and exposed to heat, so don't use your finest fabric. Cotton and linen last longer than blends.
Store finished placemats flat or rolled loosely. Folding them in the same place repeatedly can wear through the seams over time.
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
The most common error is sewing with wrong sides together. Before you start, hold both pieces up to the light and confirm that the pretty side of one is facing the pretty side of the other. Mark the right side with a safety pin if your fabric looks the same on both sides.
The second mistake is sewing too close to the edge — a seam less than half an inch from the edge can cause fraying and weakness. Aim for half an inch or slightly more. If you're using a machine, use the edge guide or mark a line with pencil.
The third is not pressing the placemat after turning. Wrinkled edges make the final seam hard to sew straight and make the whole thing look unfinished. Take the time to press.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a sewing machine instead of hand-sewing?
Yes. A machine is faster and produces stronger seams. Use a straight stitch, medium speed, and a standard needle. If you're new to machines, practice on scrap fabric first. The only part that's easier by hand is the ladder stitch for closing the opening, which is nearly invisible — but a machine-sewn closing looks fine and is faster.
What size should my placemats be?
Standard is 13 inches wide by 19 inches long, which fits most dinner plates and leaves room for a glass. Smaller (11 by 17) works for casual settings or small tables. Larger (15 by 21) is better for place settings with multiple courses. Measure your table and your plates to decide what works for you.
Do I need to hem the edges or seal them somehow?
No. Because you're sewing the two pieces together with right sides facing and then turning the whole thing inside-out, the raw edges end up inside the placemat where they can't fray. The only edges exposed are the seams themselves, which are already sealed by the stitching.
How do I make the corners look sharp?
Trim the corners diagonally before turning the placemat inside-out — this removes the bulk of fabric that would bunch. When you turn it, use a chopstick or blunt tool to push the corners out from the inside. Press with an iron after turning. Sharp corners come from these three steps, not from sewing skill.
Can I use flannel or fleece instead of cotton?
Fleece works but doesn't need pressing and can pill with washing. Flannel works fine and is softer than cotton. Both are less durable than cotton or linen for something that gets washed often. If you like how they feel, use them — just expect to replace them sooner than cotton placemats.