What You're Making and Why It Works

A plastic bag holder is a fabric tube that hangs from a hook or cabinet knob and dispenses plastic bags one at a time from the bottom opening. You fill it from the top, and bags slide out as you need them. The whole project takes two to three hours and uses only basic sewing skills — straight seams and a straightforward drawstring casing.

The design works because the weight of stacked bags keeps them from bunching, and the tube shape lets you store bags that would otherwise take up a drawer or cabinet corner. Most holders are made from two layers of quilting cotton or home décor fabric, which gives them enough body to hold their shape without being stiff.

Key Takeaways

  • You need two fabric rectangles (roughly 9 inches wide by 20 inches long), thread, a drawstring, and a sewing machine — no special tools required.
  • The holder is sewn inside-out, then turned right-side-out, so seams end up hidden inside the finished tube.
  • A drawstring casing at the top lets you cinch the opening closed and hang the holder from a hook or knob.
  • Plastic bags slide out from a small opening at the bottom, which you leave unsewn on purpose.
  • Pressing seams flat as you go prevents puckering and makes the finished holder look crisp and even.

Fabric and Supplies You'll Need

Choose two pieces of quilting cotton, home décor fabric, or lightweight linen. Each piece should be roughly 9 inches wide and 20 inches long — these measurements give you a tube about 4 inches in diameter when finished, which holds a standard stack of grocery bags. If you want a wider or narrower holder, adjust both dimensions by the same amount.

You'll also need all-purpose thread in a color that matches or complements your fabric, a drawstring (cotton cord, ribbon, or even a strip of fabric you cut yourself), a sewing machine, scissors, pins, and an iron. A seam ripper is optional but useful if you need to fix a mistake. Most of these items are already in a basic sewing kit.

Prewash your fabric if it's prone to shrinking — check the bolt end or ask at the fabric store. Let it dry completely and press it flat before you cut, so your pieces are straight and your seams sit evenly.

Cutting and Pinning Your Fabric Pieces

Lay one fabric rectangle on a flat surface with the right side (the pretty side) facing up. Place the second rectangle on top of it, right side down, so the two right sides are facing each other. This is called "right sides together" and is the starting position for almost every sewn seam.

Pin all four edges, placing pins every 3 to 4 inches and keeping them perpendicular to the edge. Make sure the corners line up exactly — if one corner is off by even half an inch, your finished tube will be lopsided. Smooth the fabric as you pin to remove wrinkles and bunches.

Once pinned, lay the stack on your sewing machine table and check that the pins won't hit the presser foot. Remove any that are too close to the edge you'll be sewing first.

Sewing the Three Closed Sides

Set your sewing machine to a straight stitch with a stitch length of 2.5 to 3 millimeters — this is the standard setting on most machines and creates a seam that's strong but not so tight it puckers. Use a quarter-inch seam allowance, which means the needle should be about a quarter inch away from the fabric edge.

Start at one corner and sew along the first long side, removing pins as you approach them. Backstitch at the start and end of every seam by pressing the reverse button for three or four stitches — this locks the thread so it won't unravel. When you reach the first corner, stop with the needle down, lift the presser foot, pivot the fabric 90 degrees, lower the presser foot, and continue sewing.

Sew three complete sides: both long sides and one short side. Leave the fourth short side completely unsewn — this is where bags will slide out from. When you finish the third side, backstitch and cut the thread, leaving a 4-inch tail.

Press each seam flat with an iron set to the heat appropriate for your fabric. Press from the inside (the side where the seams are), which helps them lie flat and makes the finished tube look neater. This step takes five minutes but makes a visible difference in the final result.

Turning the Tube Right-Side-Out and Creating the Opening

Reach through the unsewn opening and grab the fabric at the opposite corner. Pull gently and steadily until the entire tube turns inside-out and the right sides of the fabric are now facing outward. The seams are now hidden inside. This can feel awkward the first time — go slowly and don't force it, or you risk tearing a seam.

Once the tube is right-side-out, use a blunt tool like a chopstick or the back of a wooden spoon to poke out the corners so they're sharp and even. Press the entire tube flat with an iron, paying special attention to the seams, which should lie exactly on the fold lines.

The unsewn opening is now at the bottom of your finished tube. Fold the raw edges of this opening inward by about a quarter inch and press them flat. These folded edges will frame the opening where bags come out. You can leave them raw (they won't fray much on a short edge), or stitch them closed with a ladder stitch if you want them to look more finished.

Adding the Drawstring Casing

At the top of the tube, fold the raw edges inward by about half an inch and press them flat. This creates a clean edge. Fold the top down again by about an inch and press — this folded section is your drawstring casing, the channel that will hold the cord.

Pin the casing in place all the way around, keeping the fold line at the top and the raw edges hidden inside. Sew around the entire casing about a quarter inch from the bottom edge of the fold, backstitching at the start and end. This seam creates a channel for the drawstring to slide through.

Cut a piece of drawstring about 24 inches long. Attach a safety pin to one end and thread it through the casing by pushing the pin through and sliding it along inside the channel. When the pin comes out the other side, pull the drawstring through until both ends hang evenly. Tie the ends together in a knot so the drawstring can't slip out.

Filling and Hanging Your Holder

Fold plastic bags into rough triangles and stack them inside the tube, starting from the top. Fill it until bags are snug but not packed so tightly that they won't slide out. Cinch the drawstring to close the top, then hang the holder from a hook, cabinet knob, or tension rod under the sink.

Bags will slide out one at a time from the bottom opening as you pull them. If bags jam, the holder is probably too full — remove a few and the rest will flow more easily. Over time, the fabric will soften and the holder will become more flexible, which actually makes it work better.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use fabric scraps or old sheets instead of buying new fabric?

Yes. Old cotton sheets, pillowcases, or quilting scraps work perfectly. Just make sure both pieces are the same weight and fiber content so they wear evenly. Avoid stretchy fabrics like knits or swimsuit material, which won't hold their shape.

What if my seams are crooked or puckered?

Minor puckering usually disappears after you press the seam with an iron and wash the finished holder. If a seam is visibly crooked, use a seam ripper to cut the thread every half inch, then pull the thread out and resew that section. It's faster than you'd think and worth doing if the seam is in a visible spot.

How do I make the holder wider or narrower?

Adjust both the width and length of your fabric rectangles by the same amount. If you want a holder twice as wide, cut rectangles that are 18 inches wide instead of 9 inches. The length can stay the same or change too, depending on how tall you want the finished tube.

Can I add decorative elements like appliqué or embroidery?

Yes, but add them before you sew the two fabric pieces together. Pin your design to the right side of one rectangle, stitch it down, then press it flat. Then proceed with pinning the two rectangles right sides together and sewing as normal. The decoration will end up on the outside of the finished holder.

What's the best way to wash a plastic bag holder?

Machine wash in cold water on a gentle cycle and air dry. The drawstring may shrink slightly, so check that it still slides freely after the first wash. If it's tight, untie the knot and pull it through the casing to loosen it.