A potholder is a small quilted square you sew from two layers of fabric with insulation between them

A potholder is a practical kitchen item made from two pieces of fabric stitched around a layer of heat-resistant batting or insulation. The finished potholder is usually 8 to 10 inches square, thick enough to protect your hand from a hot pot handle, and small enough to hang from a hook or toss in a drawer. You can make one in an afternoon with a sewing machine, a needle, thread, two pieces of cotton fabric, and batting—all available at fabric stores or online.

The basic process involves cutting three layers to size, pinning them together, sewing around the edges, and adding a hanging loop. No special skills are required. If you can thread a needle and sew a straight line, you can make a potholder that works as well as one you buy and costs a fraction of the price.

Key Takeaways

  • You need two pieces of cotton fabric, one piece of batting, thread, and a needle or sewing machine to make a potholder.
  • Cut all three layers to the same size—typically 9 by 9 inches—and pin them together before sewing to keep them from shifting.
  • Sew around all four sides about one-quarter inch from the edge, leaving a 2-inch opening on one side to turn the potholder right-side out.
  • Stitch the opening closed by hand after turning, then topstitch around the perimeter and add a fabric loop for hanging.
  • Wash your finished potholder in warm water and dry it flat to keep the batting from clumping.

Gather your fabric, batting, and thread

Start by collecting the materials. You need two pieces of cotton fabric (quilting cotton works best because it is sturdy and comes in many colors), one piece of batting (the insulating layer—look for cotton or cotton-blend batting, which is safer for heat than polyester), thread that matches or complements your fabric, a needle or sewing machine, scissors, pins, and a ruler or measuring tape.

For fabric, choose prints or solids you like—one side will show on the front of the potholder, the other on the back. Batting comes in packages at fabric stores; you need only a small piece. Buy a piece at least 10 by 10 inches if you are buying by the yard, or purchase a package of pre-cut batting squares if your store sells them. If you cannot find batting, you can substitute two layers of folded cotton flannel or an old cotton towel, though it will be thicker and less flexible.

Cut three layers to 9 by 9 inches

Measure and cut your two fabric pieces and your batting to the same size. Nine by nine inches is a standard potholder size—large enough to grip comfortably, small enough to handle easily. Use a ruler and a rotary cutter (a circular blade on a handle) or scissors to cut straight edges. Precision matters here because uneven edges will be harder to sew and will look crooked when finished.

Stack the three layers in this order: one fabric piece (right side down), the batting, and the second fabric piece (right side up). The batting goes in the middle, and the right sides of the fabric face outward. This arrangement means the seam will be hidden inside when you turn the potholder right-side out later.

Pin the layers together and sew three sides plus part of the fourth

Pin all three layers together around the edges to prevent them from shifting while you sew. Place pins every 2 to 3 inches, pushing them straight through all three layers. If you are using a sewing machine, set it to a straight stitch with medium length (about 2.5 on most machines) and thread it with thread that matches your fabric or a neutral color like gray or tan.

Sew around all four sides of the potholder, staying about one-quarter inch from the edge. Start at one corner and sew along the first side. At each corner, stop with the needle down, lift the presser foot, turn the fabric 90 degrees, lower the presser foot, and continue. On one side—usually the bottom—stop sewing about 2 inches before you reach the corner. This opening is where you will turn the potholder right-side out. Backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam to lock the thread.

If you are sewing by hand, use a running stitch (pushing the needle in and out of the fabric in a steady rhythm) or a backstitch (pushing the needle backward through the previous stitch for extra strength). A backstitch is more durable for a potholder. Work slowly and keep your stitches small and even, about one-eighth inch apart.

Turn the potholder right-side out through the opening

Trim the corners of the potholder diagonally, cutting off the fabric and batting about one-quarter inch from the corner seam. This step removes bulk so the corners will be sharp and neat when you turn the potholder. Be careful not to cut through the stitching.

Reach through the 2-inch opening and gently pull the potholder inside out. Use a blunt tool like a chopstick or the handle of a wooden spoon to push the corners out from the inside so they are crisp and square. Press the potholder flat with an iron on a low setting (around 250 degrees Fahrenheit) to set the shape.

Stitch the opening closed and add topstitching

Fold the raw edges of the opening inward about one-quarter inch and pin them closed. Using a needle and thread, sew the opening shut with a ladder stitch (also called an invisible stitch). To make a ladder stitch, bring the needle out through the fold of one side, cross over to the opposite fold, push the needle through the fold and slide it inside the fold for about one-quarter inch, then bring it back out and cross to the first side. Repeat this zigzag motion along the entire opening. The stitches will be hidden inside the fold.

Once the opening is closed, add topstitching around the perimeter of the potholder, about one-quarter inch from the edge. This reinforces the seams, makes the potholder more durable, and gives it a finished look. You can sew in a straight line or add a decorative stitch if your machine has one. Backstitch at the beginning and end.

Attach a hanging loop and finish

Cut a strip of fabric about 2 inches wide and 6 inches long. Fold it in half lengthwise with right sides together and sew along the long edge, creating a tube. Turn it right-side out and press it flat. Fold the tube in half to form a loop and pin both raw ends to one corner of the potholder on the back side.

Sew the loop in place by stitching over the raw ends several times to anchor them firmly. You can do this by hand or machine. The loop should be sturdy enough to support the weight of the potholder when it hangs from a hook.

Wash your new potholder in warm water with mild soap and dry it flat or on low heat in the dryer. Avoid high heat, which can damage the batting. After a few washes, the fabric will soften and the potholder will become more flexible while the batting continues to insulate.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use polyester batting instead of cotton?

Polyester batting is cheaper and easier to find, but it melts at lower temperatures than cotton batting. Cotton or cotton-blend batting is safer for kitchen use because it withstands heat better. If you use polyester, keep the potholder away from direct flame and very hot surfaces.

What if I do not have a sewing machine?

You can sew an entire potholder by hand using a needle and thread. A backstitch is stronger than a running stitch and works well for potholders. It takes longer—usually 45 minutes to an hour—but the result is just as functional. Use thread that matches your fabric so stitches are less visible.

How thick should the batting be?

Standard batting for potholders is about one-quarter inch thick. Thicker batting (one-half inch) provides more insulation but makes the potholder bulkier and harder to sew. Thinner batting (one-eighth inch) is easier to work with but offers less protection. Start with standard weight and adjust based on how much heat protection you want.

Can I add quilting lines to my potholder?

Yes. After you close the opening, sew straight lines or a grid pattern across the potholder to hold the batting in place and prevent it from shifting inside. This is called quilting. It also makes the potholder look more polished. Space the lines about 2 inches apart and sew from one edge to the opposite edge.

What is the best way to store potholders?

Hang them from the loop on a hook near your stove, or fold them and store them in a kitchen drawer. Keep them dry between uses. If they absorb moisture or develop odors, wash them in warm water and air-dry them completely before storing.