The basic steps for a lined purse with a centered zipper
A zippered purse is built in layers: two outer fabric pieces, two lining pieces, a zipper, and interfacing to hold the shape. You sew the zipper between the outer and lining layers, then join the sides and bottom. The process takes about two to three hours for a beginner and requires a sewing machine, a zipper foot, and basic hand-sewing skills for closing the opening you use to turn the purse right-side out.
The zipper goes in first, before you join the sides. This is the step that stops most people, but it becomes straightforward once you understand that the zipper sits sandwiched between two fabric pieces, with the teeth facing inward. You stitch it down on both sides, then flip the whole thing inside out so the stitches hide and the zipper sits at the top of the finished purse.
Key Takeaways
- Cut two outer fabric pieces and two lining pieces the same size, then attach interfacing to the wrong side of the outer pieces to give the purse structure.
- Place the zipper face-down on the right side of one outer piece, then sew the lining on top of it using a zipper foot, which lets you stitch close to the teeth without hitting them.
- Repeat on the other side with the second outer and lining pieces, then press the seams flat so the zipper sits centered between the layers.
- Join the outer pieces together on three sides and the lining pieces on three sides, leaving a three-inch opening in the lining for turning, then sew the outer and lining together around the top edge.
- Turn the purse through the opening in the lining, press it flat, and hand-stitch the opening closed with a ladder stitch.
What you need before you start
Gather fabric, a zipper, interfacing, thread, scissors, a measuring tape, pins, and a sewing machine with a zipper foot attachment. The zipper foot is essential—it is a narrow presser foot that lets you stitch right next to the zipper teeth without the needle hitting them. Most machines come with one, but if yours did not, they cost five to ten dollars and fit any standard machine.
Choose a zipper that is one to two inches longer than the width of your finished purse. A seven-inch zipper works for a five-inch-wide purse. Longer is safer because you can trim it after sewing if needed. For a first purse, use a metal or plastic coil zipper rather than a slider zipper, because they are easier to sew and less likely to jam.
Pick a medium-weight cotton or linen for the outer fabric—something sturdy enough to hold a shape but not so thick that your machine struggles. Quilting cotton works well. The lining can be a lighter cotton or a cotton-polyester blend. Interfacing adds body; use a medium-weight fusible interfacing that you iron onto the wrong side of the outer fabric.
Cutting and preparing the fabric pieces
Decide on your finished purse size. A common beginner size is five inches wide by six inches tall. Add half an inch on all sides for seam allowance, so cut your pieces six inches wide by seven inches tall. Cut two outer pieces and two lining pieces to this size.
Fuse interfacing to the wrong side of both outer pieces following the package directions—usually you lay the interfacing shiny-side down on the wrong side of the fabric and press with a hot iron for ten to fifteen seconds. Let it cool before moving the fabric. This step prevents the finished purse from looking limp and helps it hold its shape when you carry things in it.
Press all four fabric pieces with an iron to remove wrinkles. Wrinkles make it harder to sew straight lines and to see where you are stitching, especially around the zipper.
Attaching the zipper between the outer and lining pieces
Lay one outer piece right-side up on your work surface. Place the zipper face-down on top of it, with the zipper tape aligned with the top edge of the fabric and the zipper pull pointing toward the center of the piece. The teeth should face down into the fabric. Pin the zipper tape to the fabric along the top edge.
Lay one lining piece right-side down on top of the zipper, sandwiching the zipper between the outer and lining. Pin through all three layers. You now have a three-layer sandwich: outer fabric right-side up, zipper face-down, lining right-side down.
Attach the zipper foot to your machine and thread it with thread that matches your outer fabric. Set the machine to a straight stitch, length 2.5 to 3.0. Position the needle so it will stitch about a quarter inch from the zipper teeth—close enough to hold the zipper securely but far enough away that the needle will not hit the metal or plastic. Sew along the top edge, removing pins as you go. Backstitch at the start and end.
Flip the whole sandwich over so the lining is now on top. Press the seam flat with an iron. Fold the lining and outer fabric away from the zipper so they lie flat on either side of it, with the zipper teeth now facing up. Pin the second outer piece right-side down on top of the zipper, and the second lining piece right-side up on top of that. Repeat the sewing step on this side, stitching a quarter inch from the teeth. Press flat.
Joining the outer and lining layers
Open out all four fabric pieces so they lie flat. The zipper now connects all four pieces in a strip: outer, lining, zipper, lining, outer. Fold the strip in half so the two outer pieces face each other and the two lining pieces face each other, with the zipper at the fold.
Pin the two outer pieces together on the left side, bottom, and right side, leaving the top edge (where the zipper is) unpinned. Sew these three sides with a half-inch seam allowance, using a regular presser foot and matching thread. Backstitch at the corners. Do not sew across the zipper.
Repeat with the two lining pieces, but leave a three-inch opening in the center of the bottom seam. This opening is how you will turn the purse right-side out later. Sew the left side, part of the bottom, leave the gap, sew the rest of the bottom, and sew the right side.
Trim the corners of both the outer and lining at a forty-five-degree angle, cutting away the fabric about a quarter inch from the corner stitch. This reduces bulk when you turn the purse right-side out and makes the corners lie flat.
Sewing the outer and lining together at the top
The outer and lining are still nested inside each other. Reach into the purse and pull the outer fabric out through the opening in the lining, so the outer and lining are now facing each other around the zipper. Pin them together all the way around the top edge, making sure the zipper is sandwiched between them and the fabric edges are even.
Sew around the entire top edge with a half-inch seam allowance, using a regular presser foot. You will be sewing through four layers: outer, lining, lining, outer. Sew slowly and backstitch at the start and end. This seam locks the zipper in place and joins the outer and lining permanently.
Turning and finishing the purse
Reach through the three-inch opening in the lining and pull the entire purse through it, turning it right-side out. The outer fabric is now on the outside, the lining is on the inside, and the zipper sits at the top. Press the purse flat with an iron, paying special attention to the top edge and the corners.
Close the three-inch opening in the lining with a ladder stitch, also called an invisible stitch. Thread a needle with thread that matches the lining. Bring the needle up through the fold of one side of the opening, then across into the fold of the other side, then back across, creating a zigzag pattern inside the fold. The stitches will be hidden inside the lining. Knot the thread and trim.
Open the zipper and check that it glides smoothly. If it catches, work it back and forth gently a few times. Press the finished purse one more time and it is ready to use.
Troubleshooting common problems
If the zipper is crooked or off-center, you likely did not press the seams flat after sewing each side. The zipper foot stitches close to the teeth, but the fabric can shift slightly as you sew. Pressing after each step flattens the seam and centers the zipper. If you notice it is off before you join the sides, you can carefully unpick the stitches with a seam ripper and re-sew.
If the corners are lumpy after turning, you did not trim them closely enough. The bulk of four layers of fabric bunches at the corner. Trim closer to the stitch line next time, leaving only a quarter inch of fabric beyond the seam. If the purse is already turned, you can carefully cut away some of the extra fabric from inside the corner, but be careful not to cut the stitches.
If the zipper pull gets stuck, the fabric may be caught in the slider. Open the zipper slowly and check both sides. If fabric is pinched, gently work it free. A stuck zipper usually means the fabric was not pressed flat before you sewed the top seam, so the layers are bunched slightly. Pressing the finished purse often solves this.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a shorter zipper than the width of my purse?
No. The zipper must span the entire width of the purse opening, or the sides will not close properly. If your zipper is too short, the fabric on either end will bunch and the purse will not open and close smoothly. Buy a zipper that is at least as long as the width of your finished purse, or longer.
What if I do not have a zipper foot?
You can sew the zipper with a regular presser foot, but you will have to sew farther away from the teeth to avoid hitting them, which means the zipper will not be held as securely. A zipper foot costs very little and makes the job much easier. If you plan to sew more than one purse, it is worth buying one.
Do I have to hand-stitch the opening in the lining closed?
Yes, unless you leave the opening large enough to turn the purse and then sew it closed by machine before turning. Most people find it easier to turn first and hand-stitch, because you can see what you are doing and the stitches are hidden inside the lining. A ladder stitch is nearly invisible and takes about five minutes.
Can I make the purse without lining?
Yes, but it will look unfinished inside and the seams will show. If you skip the lining, cut only two outer pieces, sew the zipper to one piece, then sew the two pieces together on three sides. Turn through a small opening, close the opening by hand, and press. The result is simpler but less polished than a lined purse.
What size zipper should I buy for a purse that is eight inches wide?
Buy a nine- or ten-inch zipper. The zipper needs to be longer than the purse width so you have room to sew the tape down without the stitches pulling on the slider. You can trim the excess zipper tape after sewing if needed, or leave it and fold it to the inside of the purse.