What you need to make pyjama bottoms

Pyjama bottoms are one of the easiest garments to sew because they have almost no shaping—just two straight legs joined at the waist and inseam. You need fabric (usually cotton or a cotton blend), elastic for the waistband, thread, and basic tools: scissors, pins, a measuring tape, and a sewing machine. Most people finish a pair in an afternoon.

For fabric, buy enough for two leg lengths plus 4 inches—so if your inseam is 28 inches, buy 60 inches of 45-inch-wide fabric. Cotton jersey, flannel, or quilting cotton all work well. Elastic should be 1 to 1.5 inches wide; measure your waist, subtract 2 inches, and buy that length. You will also need thread that matches your fabric.

Key Takeaways

  • Pyjama bottoms require only two pattern pieces—a front and back leg—which you can trace from an existing pair that fits well.
  • Cut two identical leg pieces, sew the inseams first, then join the legs at the crotch seam before attaching the elastic waistband.
  • The waistband is a straightforward tube of fabric folded in half and sewn to the top of the legs, with elastic threaded through afterward.
  • Hemming the leg openings is optional; many pyjama bottoms are left raw or finished with a zigzag stitch to prevent fraying.

Making a pattern from pants that fit

The fastest way to get a pattern is to lay a pair of pyjamas or loose pants flat on paper and trace around them. Place the pants with the front facing up, smooth out wrinkles, and use a pencil to trace the outline. Leave about half an inch of space between the pencil line and the edge of the pants—this is your seam allowance. Mark where the waistband starts and where the leg ends.

Flip the pants over and trace the back leg the same way. You now have two pattern pieces. Cut them out and lay them on your fabric. If your fabric has a nap or pattern direction, make sure both legs face the same way. Pin the pattern pieces to the fabric and cut around them with sharp scissors, leaving the half-inch seam allowance all around.

Sewing the inseams

The inseam is the seam that runs up the inside of each leg from ankle to crotch. Place one leg piece right sides together (the pretty sides facing each other) and pin along the inseam. Sew a straight line from the ankle to the crotch point, using a standard stitch length of about 2.5 millimetres. Backstitch at the beginning and end to lock the thread.

Repeat with the second leg piece. You now have two tubes. Try them on inside out to check the fit—the seams should sit on the inside of your legs. If they are too tight or too loose, you can adjust by taking in or letting out the seam by a quarter inch, but most people find the fit is correct if they traced from pants that already fit.

Joining the legs at the crotch

Turn one leg right side out and slide it inside the other leg, which is still inside out. This sounds confusing but it is the standard way to join pyjama legs. Pin the two legs together at the waist opening, matching the inseams so they line up perfectly. The front crotch curve should meet the front crotch curve, and the back should meet the back.

Sew around the entire waist opening with a straight stitch, starting and ending at one inseam. Backstitch at the start and end. Trim the seam allowance to a quarter inch and finish the raw edge with a zigzag stitch to prevent fraying. Turn the whole thing right side out through one of the leg openings. You now have a complete pant tube with two legs and a waist opening.

Attaching the elastic waistband

Cut a strip of fabric 3 inches wide and as long as your waist measurement plus 1 inch. Fold it in half lengthwise with wrong sides together and press with an iron to crease it. Open it back up. Fold the long edges toward the centre crease so they almost meet, then fold the whole thing in half again along the original crease. Press. You now have a long, narrow tube of fabric.

Pin this tube to the inside of the waist opening, with the raw edges of the tube aligned with the raw edge of the pant waist. Sew it down with a straight stitch, leaving a 2-inch gap. Cut your elastic to the length you measured earlier, thread it through the gap using a safety pin, overlap the ends by half an inch, and sew them together with a few stitches. Tuck the elastic back inside and sew the gap closed.

Finishing the leg openings

Pyjama bottoms do not always need a hem. Many people leave the leg openings raw or finish them with a zigzag stitch on the machine, which prevents the fabric from fraying without adding bulk. If you prefer a finished hem, fold the raw edge up a quarter inch, press it, fold it up again a quarter inch, and sew it down with a straight stitch close to the fold.

Try on your pyjamas inside out and check the length. The legs should hit just above your ankle or wherever you prefer. If they are too long, trim them and re-hem. If they are too short, you cannot add length, so measure carefully before cutting.

Troubleshooting common problems

The waistband is too tight or too loose. This usually means the elastic is the wrong length. You can open the gap in the waistband, remove the elastic, and replace it with a longer or shorter piece. Overlap the ends by half an inch and sew them together before tucking it back inside.

The legs twist or spiral. This happens when the inseams are not sewn straight. Check that you pinned both legs with the seams aligned before sewing the crotch. If it is too late, you can unpick the crotch seam, realign the legs, and sew again.

The fabric puckers along the seams. Your thread tension may be too tight, or you may have pulled the fabric while sewing. Loosen the tension dial slightly and let the machine feed the fabric at its own pace without pulling.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a pattern from the internet instead of tracing my own?

Yes. Search for "pyjama pants pattern" and you will find free downloadable patterns from sewing websites. Print them at the size indicated, tape the pages together, and cut out the pattern pieces. Follow the pattern's instructions for seam allowance and fabric layout.

What if I do not have an elastic waistband and want a drawstring instead?

Skip the elastic step. Instead, fold the waistband tube and sew it down as described, but leave a 1-inch gap on each side seam. Thread a drawstring (cord, ribbon, or fabric strips) through both gaps. Tie the ends together in a knot inside the waistband.

How much does it cost to make a pair of pyjama bottoms?

Fabric costs vary by type and where you buy it, but a pair usually costs between $8 and $15 in materials. Elastic and thread are inexpensive. Buying finished pyjamas often costs more, and homemade ones fit better because you can adjust the length and waist.

Do I need to pre-wash the fabric?

Cotton and cotton blends should be pre-washed in warm water and dried before cutting, because they shrink slightly. Wash and dry the same way you plan to wash the finished pyjamas. This prevents the finished garment from shrinking after you sew it.

What stitch should I use if my machine has multiple options?

Use a straight stitch for all seams. A straight stitch is the default and works for everything in pyjama bottoms. A zigzag stitch is only for finishing raw edges to prevent fraying, not for seaming.