Pajama pants are one of the easiest garments to sew because they have almost no shaping

Pajama pants are essentially two identical leg tubes sewn together at the sides and inseam, with an elastic waistband at the top. You do not need to fit them precisely—they are meant to be loose and comfortable. If you can sew a straight seam and thread elastic through a casing, you can make a pair that fits you better than anything you can buy, because you choose the length, the fabric, and how loose they sit.

The basic construction takes about two to three hours for your first pair, mostly because you are learning the steps. After that, you can make a pair in an afternoon. You will need a sewing machine, thread, elastic, fabric, and a pattern—either a commercial one or a straightforward rectangle you draft yourself.

Key Takeaways

  • Pajama pants are two rectangular leg pieces sewn together at the sides and inseam, then finished with an elastic waistband at the top.
  • You need a pattern (bought or drafted), fabric (usually cotton or flannel), 1-inch-wide elastic, thread, and a sewing machine with a working needle.
  • The waistband is created by folding the top edge down, sewing it into a tube, and threading elastic through the fold.
  • Measure your inseam and waist, then add 1 inch to the waist for seam allowance and 2 to 3 inches to the inseam for the waistband casing.

Measure yourself and choose or draft a pattern

Start with your waist measurement (measure snugly around your natural waist where the pants will sit) and your inseam (measure from your inner thigh down to your ankle, or wherever you want the pants to end). Write both down.

You can buy a commercial pajama pattern from Simplicity, McCall's, or Butterick—these cost $3 to $8 and come with printed pieces and instructions. Look for patterns labeled "pajamas" or "lounge pants." Alternatively, you can draft your own rectangle: the width should be half your waist measurement plus 1 inch for seam allowance, and the length should be your inseam plus 3 inches (for the waistband casing and hem). You will cut two identical pieces.

If you are using a commercial pattern, read through the entire instruction sheet before you start cutting. Patterns vary in how they handle the waistband and hem, and you need to know what you are aiming for.

Cut fabric and prepare the pieces

Lay your fabric on a flat surface with the grain running lengthwise (the direction the fabric naturally wants to fold). Pin your pattern pieces to the fabric and cut carefully along the edges. If you drafted your own pattern, cut two rectangles to your measurements. Mark the top edge of each piece with a pin or a small chalk mark so you do not sew them upside down.

Before you sew, check that both pieces are the same size by laying them on top of each other. Trim any uneven edges. If your fabric frays easily (like cotton), you can finish the raw edges with a zigzag stitch on your machine, but this is optional for pajamas since they will not be washed as roughly as everyday clothes.

Sew the inseam and side seams

Place the two leg pieces with the right sides (the pretty sides) facing each other. Pin along one long edge—this will be the inseam, which runs up the inside of your leg. Sew a straight seam 1/2 inch from the edge, using a stitch length of 2.5 to 3 (medium length). Backstitch at the beginning and end to lock the thread.

Open the pieces flat and press the seam flat with an iron. Then fold the pants in half lengthwise with right sides together, and pin along both side seams (the short edges). Sew both side seams the same way—1/2 inch from the edge, backstitch at the start and end. You now have a tube with two seams running down the legs.

Try the pants on inside out to check the fit around your hips and thighs. If they are too tight, you can let out the side seams by unpicking a few inches and resewing further out. If they are too loose, you can take them in, but be careful not to make them so tight that you cannot move comfortably.

Create the waistband casing and thread the elastic

Turn the pants right side out. Fold the top edge down 1/2 inch toward the inside and press it flat with an iron. Then fold it down another 1 1/4 inches and press again. This creates a tube, or casing, that will hold the elastic. Pin the fold in place all the way around.

Sew the casing closed by stitching along the bottom edge of the fold, as close to the fold as you can get without catching the elastic later. Leave a 2-inch gap unsewn so you can thread the elastic through. Backstitch at the beginning and end of the seam and at both sides of the gap.

Cut a piece of elastic 2 to 3 inches shorter than your waist measurement (so if your waist is 30 inches, cut 27 to 28 inches of elastic). Attach a safety pin to one end of the elastic and thread it through the casing, starting at the gap. Push the safety pin through the casing until the elastic comes out the other side. Overlap the two ends of the elastic by 1/2 inch and sew them together with a zigzag stitch, going back and forth several times to make it strong. Push the joined elastic back into the casing and sew the gap closed with a straight stitch.

Hem the legs

Try the pants on and mark where you want them to end—usually at your ankle or just touching the top of your foot. Take them off and fold the bottom edge up 1/2 inch, then fold it up another 1/2 inch, and press with an iron. This creates a straightforward rolled hem. Pin it in place all the way around.

Sew the hem with a straight stitch, staying as close to the inner fold as you can. Backstitch at the start and end. Repeat for the other leg. Try the pants on one more time to make sure the length is comfortable and the waistband sits where you want it.

Finish and wear

Trim any loose threads with scissors. Wash the pants in warm water with mild detergent and dry them on low heat or hang them to dry. The first wash will shrink the fabric slightly and soften it, so do not be alarmed if they feel a little stiff when you first finish sewing.

Once you have made one pair, you can make another in less time because you already know the steps. Many people keep their first pattern pieces to use again, or you can buy a reusable plastic pattern and mark it with a pen so you do not have to redraft.

Frequently Asked Questions

What fabric should I use for pajama pants?

Cotton flannel, cotton jersey, and cotton sateen are all common choices. Flannel is warm and soft, jersey is stretchy and drapes well, and sateen has a slight sheen. Avoid very heavy fabrics like denim or canvas—they will be uncomfortable to sleep in. A medium-weight cotton is usually best for beginners.

Can I add pockets to pajama pants?

Yes, but it requires a few extra steps. You can sew patch pockets (straightforward rectangles stitched to the outside of the legs) or inseam pockets (built into the side seams). Patch pockets are easier for beginners. Sew them on before you join the side seams, positioning them about 4 to 6 inches down from the waistband.

What if the elastic keeps twisting inside the casing?

This happens when the elastic is too loose or when you did not sew the gap closed tightly enough. You can prevent it by sewing the elastic to the casing at the side seams—sew a short vertical line through the casing and elastic at each side seam to anchor it in place. This keeps the elastic from rotating.

Do I need to use a pattern, or can I just cut rectangles?

You can cut rectangles if you measure carefully and add enough ease (looseness) around your hips and thighs. Most people add 4 to 6 inches to their waist measurement to account for comfort. A commercial pattern takes the guesswork out of this, but a straightforward rectangle works fine once you understand how much room you need.

How much fabric do I need to buy?

For most adults, 1 1/2 to 2 yards of 45-inch-wide fabric is enough for one pair of pajama pants. Check your pattern or measure your leg length—if your inseam is longer than 36 inches, you may need 2 yards. Always buy a little extra in case you make a cutting mistake.