Rick rack goes down in three ways: flat, folded, or inserted

Rick rack is a trim with a zigzag edge that sits on top of fabric (flat), folds over the edge (folded), or slides between two layers (inserted). The method you choose depends on where you want the trim to land and how much of the zigzag to show. Flat process is fastest and shows the full trim. Folded binding hides half the zigzag and finishes an edge. Inserted rick rack sits between two fabric pieces and shows only the points.

All three methods use the same basic stitch — a straight line down the middle of the trim — but the setup and fabric handling change. The needle position, presser foot, and fabric layers shift based on which look you want.

Key Takeaways

  • Flat rick rack is sewn down the center with a straight stitch and shows the full zigzag on top of the fabric.
  • Folded rick rack wraps over a raw edge and is stitched on both sides to hold it in place and finish the seam.
  • Inserted rick rack sits between two fabric pieces before they are sewn together, so only the points show on the finished edge.
  • Curves and corners need the rick rack clipped or gathered slightly so it lies flat without puckering or bunching.
  • A standard presser foot works, but a walking foot or open-toe foot gives better visibility and control on longer seams.

Flat rick rack: the fastest method for visible trim

Lay your fabric flat and position the rick rack on top, centered where you want it. Pin it in place every 2 to 3 inches, keeping the pins perpendicular to the trim so they do not interfere with the needle path. Use a straight stitch and thread that matches the trim or the fabric — whichever you want to be less visible. Sew down the center of the rick rack in a single pass.

Start with the presser foot down and the needle in the fabric. Backstitch a few stitches, then sew forward at a steady pace. The zigzag edges will sit on top of the fabric on both sides of your stitch line. When you reach the end, backstitch again and trim the thread tails. This method works on any fabric weight and is the easiest to rip out if you need to adjust.

Folded rick rack: binding a raw edge with trim

Folded rick rack wraps over the edge of your fabric like binding. Start by laying the rick rack so one half sits on the right side of the fabric and the other half hangs off the edge. The fold line of the zigzag should align with the fabric edge. Pin it in place, then sew down the center of the trim with a straight stitch, catching both the top layer and the fabric underneath.

Once the first seam is done, fold the rick rack over the edge to the back side of the fabric. The zigzag points will now frame the edge on both the front and back. Pin the folded trim in place on the back, then sew it down with a second straight stitch. Use thread that matches the back fabric if possible. This creates a finished edge with rick rack visible on both sides.

Inserted rick rack: trim sandwiched between layers

Inserted rick rack sits between two pieces of fabric before they are sewn together. Lay your first fabric piece right side up. Position the rick rack on top with the zigzag points facing outward and the straight edge aligned with the raw edge of the fabric. Pin it in place.

Lay the second fabric piece right side down on top, sandwiching the rick rack between the two layers. The raw edges of all three pieces should line up. Sew a straight seam through all layers, using a standard seam allowance (usually 1/4 inch). When you flip the fabric right side out, the rick rack points will peek out from the seam. This method is clean and works well on pillows, blankets, and garment edges.

Handling curves without puckering

Curves are the hardest part of rick rack process because the trim wants to bunch on the inside of the curve and stretch on the outside. For flat or folded rick rack on a curve, clip small notches into the seam allowance of the fabric before you pin the trim down. These notches let the fabric curve smoothly without pulling the trim.

For the rick rack itself, ease it gently around the curve by pinning every inch instead of every 2 to 3 inches. Take your time sewing and do not pull the fabric or trim — let the presser foot feed it through at its own pace. If the trim still bunches, you can gently gather it by hand as you sew, but this takes practice. For inserted rick rack on a curve, clip the seam allowance of both fabric pieces before assembly so the curve sits flat.

Corners: fold, miter, or overlap

At a corner, you have three choices. The simplest is to overlap: sew the rick rack to one edge, then fold it at the corner and sew it down the next edge. The overlap creates a small bulk at the corner but is fast and works on most projects.

A mitered corner looks neater. Stop sewing 1/4 inch before the corner, backstitch, and remove the fabric. Fold the rick rack at a 45-degree angle, then pin it to the next edge and resume sewing from the corner point. This takes more care but gives a professional finish. For inserted rick rack, straightforward sew the seams and let the corner sit naturally — the trim will fold with the fabric.

Presser feet and thread choices

A standard presser foot works for all rick rack methods, but a walking foot helps if you are sewing through multiple layers or thick fabric. The walking foot feeds the top layer at the same speed as the bottom, which prevents the trim from shifting. An open-toe foot gives you a clear view of the center line of the trim, which is useful on longer seams or when you are learning.

Thread color matters less than you might think. Neutral thread (gray, tan, or white) disappears on most fabrics. If you want the stitching to show, match the thread to the trim. If you want it to hide, match the thread to the fabric. Polyester thread is stronger than cotton and less likely to break on curves, but cotton works fine on most projects.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I sew rick rack on a curved edge without clipping the fabric?

You can try, but the fabric will pucker and the trim will bunch. Clipping small notches into the seam allowance takes two minutes and prevents this. If you are working with a very gentle curve, you might get away without clipping, but it is not worth the risk on a project you care about.

What stitch length should I use?

A standard stitch length of 2.5 millimeters works for most rick rack. If your fabric is delicate, go slightly shorter (2.0 to 2.2 millimeters) so the stitches hold better. On heavy fabric, you can go longer (2.8 to 3.0 millimeters) without losing strength. Test on a scrap first.

How do I remove rick rack if I sew it on wrong?

Use a seam ripper to cut every third or fourth stitch along the seam, then pull the thread out. Once the stitches are gone, gently peel the rick rack away from the fabric. If the trim is damaged, you will need a new piece. If it is fine, you can reposition it and sew it down again.

Is there a difference between cotton and polyester rick rack?

Cotton rick rack is softer and drapes better on garments. Polyester is more durable and resists fraying, so it holds up better on items that get washed often. Both sew the same way. Choose based on what you are making and how often it will be used.

Can I use rick rack on knit fabric?

Yes, but use a ballpoint needle and a stretch stitch or narrow zigzag instead of a straight stitch. Knits move more than woven fabric, so a straight stitch can break. A stretch stitch has a tiny backstitch built in that gives with the fabric. Test on a scrap of your knit first.