Roman shades are sewn from a single piece of fabric, then fitted with cords and wooden slats that let you fold them up in neat horizontal pleats
A roman shade is a window covering made from one rectangle of fabric. When you pull a cord, the fabric gathers up in horizontal folds and stacks at the top of the window. The folds stay crisp because wooden slats are sewn into horizontal pockets on the back of the fabric. You control the folds with cord threaded through rings attached to those slats.
The sewing itself is straightforward: you hem the sides and bottom, sew channels across the back to hold the slats, and attach rings to those channels. The real work is measuring correctly and installing the mounting hardware so the shade hangs straight and the cords pull evenly. Most people can sew a roman shade in an afternoon once they have the materials on hand.
Key Takeaways
- Measure your window opening width and the distance from the top of the frame to the sill, then add 2 inches to the width and 3 inches to the length to account for hems and mounting.
- Sew a 1-inch hem on both sides and a 2-inch hem on the bottom, then sew horizontal channels across the back of the fabric spaced 4 to 6 inches apart to hold the wooden slats.
- Attach small plastic rings to the inside of each channel using thread that matches your fabric, spacing the rings so they align vertically and the cords can pull the shade evenly.
- Mount a wooden board to the top of your window frame, attach the cord to the bottom ring on one side, thread it up through all the rings above, and tie it off at the top.
- Test the shade by pulling the cord slowly to make sure the folds form evenly and the fabric does not bunch on one side.
Measure your window and cut the fabric to size
Measure the width of your window opening from the inside of the frame on one side to the inside on the other. Measure the height from the top of the frame down to the sill. Add 2 inches to the width (1 inch for each side hem) and 3 inches to the height (2 inches for the bottom hem and 1 inch for the top, which will be hidden under the mounting board).
Cut your fabric to these dimensions. Use a rotary cutter and a straightedge on a cutting mat if you have them; a sharp pair of scissors works too, but a rotary cutter gives you a straighter edge. Lay the fabric out on a flat surface and double-check your measurements before you cut.
Hem the sides and bottom of the shade
Fold the left edge of the fabric inward by 1 inch, press it flat with an iron, and sew it down with a straight stitch about 1/4 inch from the fold. Do the same on the right edge. These side hems keep the fabric from fraying and give the shade a finished look.
Fold the bottom edge inward by 2 inches, press it, and sew it down the same way. The 2-inch bottom hem is deeper because it needs to be heavy enough to keep the shade hanging straight and to anchor the bottom slat.
Sew channels on the back to hold the wooden slats
Lay the shade flat with the back facing up. Decide how many folds you want when the shade is raised. Most roman shades have folds spaced 4 to 6 inches apart. If your shade is 36 inches tall, you might place channels at 6, 12, 18, 24, and 30 inches from the bottom.
Mark each channel location lightly with a pencil or tailor's chalk. Sew a straight line across the entire width of the shade at each mark. Make the channel wide enough to slide a wooden slat through — usually 1/2 inch wide is enough. Sew two parallel lines 1/2 inch apart, or sew one line and then sew another 1/2 inch above it, leaving the space between open as the channel.
The bottom hem you already sewed acts as the lowest channel, so you do not need to sew another one there. The top of the shade will be folded over and stapled to the mounting board, so you do not need a channel at the very top either.
Attach rings to the channels for the cords
Small plastic rings (usually 3/8 inch in diameter) are sewn to the inside of each channel. These rings hold the cord that raises and lowers the shade. You need one ring at the bottom of each channel, and you need rings spaced vertically so the cords can pull the shade up evenly.
A common layout is to place rings 4 to 6 inches apart horizontally along each channel, and to have at least three vertical lines of rings running from bottom to top. If your shade is 36 inches wide, you might place vertical lines of rings at 6 inches from the left, 18 inches from the left (the center), and 6 inches from the right.
Thread a needle with thread that matches your fabric. Sew each ring to the inside of its channel with four or five small stitches through the ring and into the fabric. Knot the thread on the back side so it does not come loose. Take your time here — a ring that pulls free will ruin the shade.
Mount the shade to a wooden board at the top of the window
Cut a piece of 1-by-2 inch pine or oak to the width of your window opening. Sand it smooth and finish it with paint or stain if you want it to match your room. This board will be mounted horizontally above the window frame and will hold the shade in place.
Fold the top 1 inch of the shade over the front of the board and staple it to the back of the board with a staple gun, spacing staples about 2 inches apart. Pull the fabric taut as you staple so the shade hangs straight. The fabric should wrap around the top and bottom of the board and be stapled to the back.
Mount the board to the wall or window frame with screws or brackets. Use a level to make sure it is straight. If the board is not level, the shade will hang crooked and the cords will not pull evenly.
Thread the cords and test the shade
You need one cord for each vertical line of rings. Tie the cord to the bottom ring on one side of the shade. Thread the cord up through all the rings above it on that same line, then across the top through the rings on the other vertical lines, and down to the top of the mounting board where you will tie it off.
Pull the cord slowly and watch the shade fold up. The folds should form evenly across the width of the shade. If one side bunches up before the other, the rings may not be aligned vertically, or the cord may not be threaded through all of them. Adjust the rings or re-thread the cord until the shade pulls up smoothly.
Once the shade works correctly, tie the cord off at the top of the mounting board or attach it to a cleat on the wall so it does not slip. Some people use a cord lock (a small plastic device that grips the cord) to hold it in place.
Frequently Asked Questions
What fabric works best for roman shades?
Medium-weight cotton, linen, or a cotton blend works well because it folds crisply and hangs straight. Avoid very thin fabrics, which will not hold the folds, and very heavy fabrics, which are hard to sew and do not fold neatly. Many people use decorator fabric or quilting cotton.
How do I know how many slats and channels I need?
Channels spaced 4 to 6 inches apart create folds that look balanced. A 36-inch-tall shade might have five or six channels. Fewer channels mean larger folds; more channels mean smaller, more numerous folds. Choose based on the look you want and how much fabric movement you are comfortable with.
Can I use a sewing machine for all of this, or do I need to hand-sew parts?
A sewing machine does all the work — hems, channels, and even the rings can be sewn by machine if you use a zigzag stitch over them. Hand-sewing the rings is slower but gives you more control and is less likely to break the ring. Most people use a machine for hems and channels and hand-sew the rings.
What happens if the shade does not pull up evenly?
Uneven pulling usually means the rings are not aligned vertically or the cord is not threaded through all of them. Check that each vertical line of rings is straight by looking at the shade from the side. Re-thread the cord carefully, making sure it goes through every ring from bottom to top.
Do I need to line the fabric?
Lining is optional. A lined shade blocks more light, hangs more stiffly, and looks more polished from the outside. An unlined shade is lighter, folds more softly, and is faster to sew. If you line it, sew the lining to the back of the main fabric before you hem the sides and bottom.