A sarong is a rectangle of fabric with finished edges and a drawstring casing
A sarong is one of the easiest garments to sew because it has no fitted pieces, no armholes, and no closures except a drawstring. You are sewing a rectangle of fabric, finishing the raw edges so they do not fray, and adding a casing at the top so a drawstring can slide through. The finished sarong wraps around your body and ties at the side or front.
Most sarongs are made from cotton, linen, rayon, or lightweight blends — anything that drapes well and feels comfortable against skin. You can use quilting cotton, chambray, or even a lightweight home-décor fabric. The only real requirement is that the fabric should not be stiff or heavy. A sarong typically measures 45 to 60 inches wide and 36 to 45 inches long, depending on your height and how much overlap you want when you tie it.
Key Takeaways
- Cut a rectangle of fabric 45 to 60 inches wide and 36 to 45 inches long, then trim the selvages (the finished factory edges) off both long sides.
- Finish all four raw edges with a narrow rolled hem or a zigzag stitch to prevent fraying, which takes longer than the rest of the project.
- Fold down the top edge 1.5 inches and sew a casing that is 1 inch wide, leaving a 2-inch opening for the drawstring to pass through.
- Thread a drawstring through the casing using a safety pin or bodkin, then tie the ends in a knot or bow.
- A basic sarong takes three to four hours if you finish edges by hand, or one to two hours if you use a serger or zigzag stitch on a regular machine.
Measure and cut your fabric rectangle
Measure your waist and add 12 to 18 inches for overlap when you tie the sarong. This is your width. For length, measure from your underarm to your ankle, or from your hip to the floor — whichever you prefer. Most people choose 36 to 45 inches. Write these numbers down so you do not forget them while you are at the fabric store.
Buy fabric that is at least as wide as your desired width, or plan to sew two pieces together. If you buy a piece that is wider than you need, cut it to size on a cutting mat using a rotary cutter and a long ruler, or mark the lines with tailor's chalk and cut with sharp fabric scissors. Remove the selvages (the tightly woven finished edges along the sides of the bolt) by cutting them off — they do not drape the same way as the rest of the fabric and can pucker.
Press the fabric flat with an iron before you cut, so your measurements are accurate and your edges are straight. If the fabric is wrinkled, a damp pressing cloth and medium heat will smooth it without damaging most natural fibers.
Finish all four edges to prevent fraying
Raw fabric edges fray when they are washed and worn. A sarong wraps around your body, so all four edges are visible and will be handled often. Finishing the edges is the most time-consuming part of sewing a sarong, but it is also what makes the difference between a garment that lasts and one that falls apart.
The most common method is a narrow rolled hem, which is a fold of fabric 0.25 inches wide that is stitched down. To sew a rolled hem by hand, fold the raw edge 0.25 inches toward the wrong side of the fabric, press it, then fold it again 0.25 inches and press. Stitch close to the inner fold using a needle and thread that matches the fabric. This takes time but produces a neat, professional finish. If you have a serger (an overlock machine), it will sew a rolled hem in one pass while trimming the raw edge, which is much faster.
If you do not have time for a rolled hem, a zigzag stitch on a regular sewing machine is acceptable. Set your machine to a medium-width zigzag (width 2.5 to 3, length 2 to 2.5) and stitch 0.25 inches from the raw edge. The zigzag will seal the edge and prevent fraying. This method is faster than a rolled hem but slightly less refined in appearance. Finish all four edges — the two long sides and the top and bottom — before you move on to the casing.
Sew the drawstring casing at the top
The casing is a tunnel of fabric at the top of the sarong that holds the drawstring. Fold the top edge of the finished fabric down 1.5 inches toward the wrong side and press. This fold should be deep enough that when you sew the casing, the drawstring will slide through without catching on the edge of the fold.
Stitch along the fold line using a straight stitch, sewing 1 inch from the folded edge. This creates a 0.5-inch space between the fold and the stitching line. Before you sew all the way across, stop 2 inches before the end and backstitch. Leave a 2-inch opening, then start stitching again 2 inches from where you stopped. This opening is where the drawstring will go in and out. Backstitch at the end to find the thread.
If you want the casing to look more finished, sew a second line of stitching 0.25 inches below the first line. This reinforces the casing and makes it less likely to tear when you pull the drawstring tight. Press the casing flat with an iron when you are done.
Thread the drawstring through the casing
A drawstring can be made from cord, ribbon, fabric strips, or even a length of yarn. Most people use a 0.25-inch-wide cotton cord or a 1-inch-wide ribbon. Measure around your waist and add 12 inches so you have enough length to tie a bow or knot. Cut the drawstring to this length.
To thread the drawstring through the casing without it getting stuck, attach a safety pin to one end of the drawstring. Feed the safety pin into the 2-inch opening you left in the casing and push it through the tunnel, gathering the fabric as you go. The safety pin will emerge from the same opening. Pull the drawstring all the way through until both ends hang evenly.
If you do not have a safety pin, a bodkin (a flat metal tool with a clasp) works the same way. Some people use a straw or a length of yarn tied to the drawstring. The goal is to have something with a point or a hook that can push through the casing without snagging the fabric.
Tie the drawstring and try on your sarong
Wrap the sarong around your body at hip level, overlapping the two ends so the fabric sits where you want it. Pull the drawstring tight enough that the sarong stays in place when you move, but not so tight that it cuts into your skin. Tie the ends in a knot, a bow, or a square knot — whichever you prefer. You can tie it at the side of your hip, at the front center, or at the back, depending on how you want it to look.
Try sitting, bending, and walking to make sure the sarong does not slip or bunch. If it slides down, tighten the drawstring. If it feels too snug, loosen it. You can adjust the drawstring every time you wear it, so it does not have to be perfect the first time.
Wash your finished sarong in cool water with mild detergent and hang it to dry. The finished edges and reinforced casing will hold up to regular wear and washing.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I sew a sarong without finishing the edges?
You can, but the edges will fray noticeably after a few washes. Finishing the edges takes two to three hours, but it makes the sarong last much longer and look more polished. If you are short on time, a zigzag stitch is faster than a rolled hem and still prevents most fraying.
What fabric weight works best for a sarong?
Lightweight to medium-weight fabrics drape best. Quilting cotton, chambray, rayon, linen, and cotton blends all work well. Avoid heavy fabrics like denim or canvas, which will not drape smoothly, and avoid very thin fabrics like chiffon, which are difficult to finish neatly.
Do I need a serger to sew a sarong?
No. A regular sewing machine and a needle and thread are enough. A serger makes the edge finishing faster and neater, but a zigzag stitch or a hand-sewn rolled hem on a regular machine produces a good result.
How do I know what size to cut?
Measure your waist and add 12 to 18 inches for the overlap when you tie it. For length, measure from your underarm to your ankle or from your hip to the floor. Most sarongs are 45 to 60 inches wide and 36 to 45 inches long, but your measurements may be different.
Can I add a pattern or design to my sarong?
Yes. You can print a design on fabric using a home printer and transfer paper, or you can hand-paint or hand-dye the fabric before you sew. Finish the edges after you add the design so the paint or dye does not run along the raw edges.