What you need to sew a sun hat

A sun hat is one of the most forgiving sewing projects because it doesn't require a fitted pattern, perfect seams, or closures. You need fabric (cotton or linen works best), thread, a needle or sewing machine, scissors, and a measuring tape. A wide-brimmed hat starts with two pieces: a crown (the top part that covers your head) and a brim (the flat or slightly curved part that shades your face and neck). You can make both from the same fabric or mix two different ones.

The simplest approach uses a basic rectangular piece for the crown and a circle or oval for the brim. No pattern is strictly necessary—you can draw your own on paper and cut it out, or measure directly onto fabric. A sun hat doesn't need interfacing, elastic, or wire unless you want the brim to hold a specific shape. Most people add a straightforward drawstring or elastic band inside the crown to keep it from sliding off, but even that is optional.

Key Takeaways

  • A sun hat consists of a crown (the part covering your head) and a brim (the shaded overhang), both cut from straightforward geometric shapes you can measure yourself.
  • Cotton or linen fabric works best because it breathes, drapes well, and is straightforward to sew by hand or machine.
  • The entire project—measuring, cutting, and sewing—takes two to four hours for a beginner, depending on whether you use a machine.
  • You can finish the edges with a straightforward fold-and-stitch or a bias tape binding, both of which take less than 30 minutes.
  • A drawstring or elastic band sewn into the inside seam keeps the hat on your head without adding visible hardware.

Measuring and cutting the crown

The crown is the part that sits on your head. To find the right size, wrap a soft measuring tape around your head where a hat would normally sit—just above your ears and across the back. Write down that measurement. For a sun hat, add one inch to that number to account for seam allowance and a comfortable fit. That total is your circumference.

Cut a rectangle of fabric with a width equal to your circumference plus one inch, and a height of 4 to 6 inches (depending on how tall you want the crown to be). A 4-inch crown is casual and sits low; a 6-inch crown is more structured and formal. You will sew the short ends of this rectangle together to form a tube, so make sure your measurement is accurate. If you are unsure, cut it slightly larger—you can always trim it down after sewing.

Measuring and cutting the brim

The brim is a circle or oval that attaches to the bottom of the crown. To find the right size, take your head circumference measurement and divide it by 3.14 (pi). That gives you the diameter of the circle you need. For a standard sun hat, add 2 to 4 inches to that diameter to create the overhang that shades your face and neck. A 2-inch overhang is modest; a 4-inch overhang is dramatic and very protective.

Draw a circle on paper using a compass or a plate as a guide, then cut it out and lay it on your fabric. Trace around it with chalk or a fabric pen, then cut it out. You will need two brim pieces—one for the top and one for the underside. Cutting two identical circles takes about 10 minutes and ensures both sides look finished and professional.

Sewing the crown into a tube

Fold your crown rectangle in half lengthwise with the right sides facing each other (the pretty side of the fabric facing inward). Sew the short ends together using a straight stitch, either by hand or machine. Leave a quarter-inch seam allowance—that means the stitching line should be a quarter-inch away from the raw edge. Backstitch at the beginning and end to lock the thread.

Once you have sewn the seam, turn the tube right-side-out so the pretty fabric faces outward. Press it flat with an iron if you have one; if not, smooth it with your hands. You now have a tube that will form the crown of your hat. Try it on to make sure it fits comfortably around your head without pinching or sliding. If it is too tight, you can carefully cut a small slit and add a gusset (a small triangular piece of fabric), but most crowns fit fine on the first try.

Attaching the brim to the crown

Place one brim circle right-side-up on a flat surface. Lay the crown tube on top of it, with the raw (unfinished) bottom edge of the crown aligned with the outer edge of the brim circle. The crown should sit on top like a ring. Pin the two pieces together all the way around, spacing pins about 2 inches apart. This is the most time-consuming step because the crown is curved and the brim is flat, so you will need to ease the fabric gently as you pin.

Sew the crown to the brim using a quarter-inch seam allowance, sewing all the way around. A machine makes this faster, but hand-sewing works fine—just use small, even stitches. Once you have sewn all the way around, lay the second brim circle on top, right-side-down, so the two brim pieces sandwich the crown edge between them. Pin and sew around the outer edge of the brim, leaving a 3-inch opening so you can turn the hat right-side-out.

Finishing the edges and turning the hat

Turn the hat right-side-out through the 3-inch opening you left. Use a blunt tool like a wooden spoon handle to gently push the brim edges out so they are crisp and even. Press the hat flat with an iron or smooth it by hand. Fold the raw edges of the 3-inch opening inward by a quarter-inch and pin them closed. Sew the opening shut using a ladder stitch (also called an invisible stitch), which hides the thread inside the fold and leaves almost no visible seam.

If you want a more casual look, you can skip the ladder stitch and straightforward topstitch the opening closed with a straight stitch a quarter-inch from the edge. This creates a visible line but is faster and looks intentional. Either way, your hat is now structurally complete. Try it on and adjust the fit if needed.

Adding a drawstring or elastic band

A drawstring or elastic band keeps the hat from blowing off in wind. To add one, fold the crown down slightly and sew a casing (a tunnel of fabric) around the inside of the crown, about one inch below the top edge. You can do this by folding a half-inch strip of fabric over the raw edge and sewing it down, or by sewing two parallel lines a half-inch apart and threading the cord through the channel between them.

Thread a drawstring (cotton cord or ribbon) through the casing using a safety pin or bodkin to guide it. Tie the ends together so the string can tighten around your head. If you prefer elastic, cut a piece of quarter-inch elastic to fit snugly around your head with a half-inch overlap, sew the ends together, then sew the elastic loop into the casing. The elastic will be hidden inside the crown and will hold the hat firmly without any visible adjustment.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I sew a sun hat by hand, or do I need a sewing machine?

You can sew a sun hat entirely by hand using a needle and thread. Hand-sewing takes longer—roughly twice as long as a machine—but produces the same result. Use a backstitch for seams and a ladder stitch for closing openings. A machine is faster and produces more even stitches, but not required.

What fabric is best for a sun hat?

Cotton and linen are ideal because they breathe, don't trap heat, and are straightforward to sew. Quilting cotton is affordable and widely available. Avoid heavy fabrics like denim or canvas, which are stiff and hard to sew by hand. Avoid stretchy fabrics like knit or jersey, which don't hold their shape.

How do I make the brim stay curved instead of drooping?

You can add a flexible wire or millinery wire to the outer edge of the brim by sewing it into the seam when you attach the two brim circles. This holds the brim in a gentle curve. Alternatively, use a stiffer fabric like canvas or add interfacing to the brim pieces before sewing. A drooping brim is also perfectly functional and looks casual.

What if my crown is too loose or too tight after I sew it?

If it is too loose, you can sew a small dart (a tapered seam) on the inside of the crown to take in fabric. If it is too tight, add a gusset by cutting a small rectangular piece of fabric, sewing it between the two ends of the crown seam to add width. Both fixes take 15 to 20 minutes.

Do I need to line the inside of the hat?

No, lining is optional. A sun hat works fine without it. If you want to add lining for comfort or a finished look, cut a second crown piece from cotton or linen, sew it into a tube, and hand-stitch it to the inside of the crown after the hat is complete. This adds 30 to 45 minutes to the project.