What you need to sew a table mat

A table mat is a flat fabric rectangle that protects your table from heat, spills, and scratches. You can sew one in an afternoon using a sewing machine, needle and thread, fabric scissors, and a measuring tape. Most people use cotton or linen because both hold their shape and wash well.

The finished mat is usually 12 to 14 inches wide and 16 to 18 inches long, though you can adjust those measurements to fit your table. You will need two pieces of fabric — one for the top and one for the backing — plus batting (a thin quilted layer) sandwiched between them if you want padding. If you skip the batting, the mat will be thinner and flatter.

A basic mat uses about half a yard of fabric total, which costs between $4 and $12 depending on the weight and fiber. Batting adds another $2 to $4. If you already own thread that matches your fabric, you are ready to start.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut two fabric rectangles to the same size, add batting between them if you want padding, and pin all three layers together before sewing.
  • Sew around the perimeter of the mat using a straight stitch, leaving a 2-inch opening on one side so you can turn it right-side out.
  • Turn the mat through the opening, press it flat with an iron, and hand-stitch the opening closed using a ladder stitch.
  • Topstitch around the edges of the finished mat to hold all layers in place and add a decorative line.
  • Wash your finished mat in cold water and dry it flat to prevent wrinkles and keep the batting from shifting.

Cutting and preparing your fabric pieces

Start by washing your fabric in cold water and drying it flat. This prevents shrinking later when you wash the finished mat. Once it is dry, lay it on a clean, flat surface and smooth out any wrinkles with your hands.

Measure and mark your rectangle using a ruler or measuring tape. For a standard mat, mark 14 inches wide by 18 inches long. Use tailor's chalk or a fabric pencil to draw the lines — do not use a regular pen, which can bleed through the fabric. Cut along the lines with fabric scissors, keeping the blade straight and the fabric flat.

Cut two identical rectangles this way — one for the top and one for the backing. If you are using batting, cut a piece the same size as well. Stack the three layers with the batting in the middle and the fabric pieces on top and bottom, with the right sides of the fabric facing outward. The wrong side of the top fabric and the wrong side of the backing fabric should both face the batting.

Pinning the layers together

Once your layers are stacked correctly, pin them together so they do not shift while you sew. Start by placing pins at the four corners, pushing the pin straight through all three layers. Then place pins every 3 to 4 inches around the perimeter, working your way around the rectangle.

Add pins across the middle of the mat as well — one horizontal line and one vertical line — to keep the batting from bunching or sliding during sewing. The pins should go straight through all layers and stick out on both sides. Make sure the fabric is smooth and flat under each pin before you push it all the way through.

Sewing the perimeter with a gap for turning

Thread your sewing machine with thread that matches your top fabric. Set the machine to a straight stitch with a medium stitch length — about 2.5 millimeters. Test the tension on a scrap of your fabric first to make sure the stitches look even on both sides.

Place the mat under the presser foot with the top fabric facing up. Start sewing at one corner, about half an inch from the edge. Sew slowly and steadily around the entire perimeter, removing pins as you reach them. When you reach the corner, stop with the needle down, lift the presser foot, turn the mat 90 degrees, lower the presser foot, and continue sewing.

When you reach the side where you started, sew all the way around except for a 2-inch gap. Leave this gap unsewn so you can turn the mat right-side out later. Backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam to lock the thread and prevent unraveling. Trim the thread and remove the mat from the machine.

Turning the mat right-side out and closing the gap

Reach through the 2-inch gap and gently pull the mat through, turning it inside out as you go. Work slowly so you do not tear the seams. Once the mat is turned, use your fingers to push the corners out so they are sharp and square, not rounded.

Press the entire mat flat with an iron set to medium heat. Pay special attention to the seams and the edges so they lie flat. This also helps fuse the layers together slightly and makes the mat look finished.

Close the gap by hand using a ladder stitch. Thread a needle with thread that matches your fabric and tie a knot at the end. Bring the needle up through the fold of fabric at one end of the gap, then slide it horizontally inside the fold for about half an inch and bring it back out. Cross over to the opposite side of the gap and repeat, working your way along the opening. Pull the thread gently every few stitches so the gap closes neatly. Tie off the thread inside the fold when you reach the other end.

Topstitching for durability and decoration

Topstitching is a line of stitching that runs around the edge of the finished mat, about a quarter inch from the perimeter. It holds all the layers together permanently and gives the mat a polished, professional look.

Thread your machine again and set it to a straight stitch. Place the mat under the presser foot and sew around the entire perimeter, staying as close to the edge as you can without sewing off the fabric. Use the edge of the presser foot as a guide — most presser feet are exactly a quarter inch wide, so if you line the edge of the fabric with the edge of the foot, your topstitching will be perfectly spaced.

Sew slowly and keep the fabric straight. When you reach a corner, stop with the needle down, lift the presser foot, turn the mat, lower the presser foot, and continue. Backstitch at the beginning and end to lock the thread.

Washing and caring for your finished mat

Wash your new mat in cold water on a gentle cycle with mild detergent. Do not use bleach or fabric softener, which can damage the batting and weaken the thread. Dry it flat on a clean surface or hang it to air-dry — do not put it in the dryer, which can shrink the fabric and melt the batting.

If the mat wrinkles after washing, press it again with a medium-heat iron. Store it flat in a drawer or fold it loosely and place it in a cupboard. Avoid folding it tightly for long periods, which can create permanent creases.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I sew a table mat without batting?

Yes. Skip the batting layer and sew the two fabric pieces together the same way. The mat will be thinner and less padded, but it will still protect your table and wash well. Some people prefer this for a sleeker look.

What fabric works best for table mats?

Cotton and linen are the most durable choices because they hold their shape, wash easily, and resist staining. Avoid stretchy fabrics like jersey or knits, which will warp and pucker. Avoid very thin fabrics like voile, which tear easily.

How do I fix a seam that came undone?

Thread a needle with matching thread and use a ladder stitch to close the gap from the inside. If the seam came undone during washing, check that you backstitched at the beginning and end — if you did not, the thread can unravel. Backstitch prevents this.

Can I add a decorative border or pattern to my mat?

Yes. You can sew a contrasting fabric strip around the edge before you sew the two main pieces together, or you can topstitch a decorative pattern instead of a straightforward line. Experiment on scrap fabric first to see how it looks.

How many mats should I sew at once?

Sewing four to six mats in one session is efficient because you can cut all the pieces at once, pin them all, and sew them in a batch. This saves time and thread. Store finished mats flat so they do not wrinkle.