A table runner is a long, narrow strip of fabric you sew and place down the center of your table

A table runner is a rectangular piece of fabric, usually 12 to 16 inches wide and 36 to 90 inches long, that runs lengthwise down the middle of your table. You sew the edges closed so they don't fray, and the finished piece sits flat on top of your tablecloth or bare table. Most runners take two to four hours to complete, depending on whether you add decorative stitching or just finish the seams.

The basic process is: cut your fabric to size, sew the long edges together with the right sides facing inward, turn it right-side out, press it flat, and close the short ends. You don't need a serger or special equipment—a standard sewing machine and basic supplies work fine. The hardest part is usually keeping your seams straight, but that gets easier with practice.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut your fabric at least 1 inch longer and wider than your finished size to account for seam allowance and shrinkage.
  • Sew the long edges together with right sides facing inward, using a straight stitch and a 1/2-inch seam allowance.
  • Turn the runner right-side out through an opening you leave in one short end, then press it flat with an iron.
  • Close the opening with a ladder stitch (invisible seam) or a topstitch, depending on the look you want.
  • Wash and dry your finished runner before using it to prevent future shrinkage and color bleeding.

Gather your fabric, thread, and tools

You need fabric (usually cotton, linen, or a blend), thread that matches or complements your fabric, a sewing machine, scissors, pins, a measuring tape, and an iron. If your fabric frays easily—like linen or loosely woven cotton—you may also want a rotary cutter and self-healing mat for cleaner cuts, though regular scissors work. A seam ripper is useful if you make mistakes and need to undo stitches.

For a basic 14-by-72-inch finished runner, buy 1.5 to 2 yards of fabric, depending on the width of your bolt. Most fabric bolts are 44 to 60 inches wide, so you'll have room to cut your runner and a small scrap for testing thread tension. Wash and dry your fabric before cutting if you plan to wash the finished runner later—this prevents uneven shrinkage after you've sewn it.

Cut your fabric to the right size with seam allowance included

Measure and mark your cutting lines with a ruler and fabric pencil or chalk. For a 14-by-72-inch finished runner, cut your fabric to 15 by 73 inches. The extra half-inch on each side accounts for the 1/2-inch seam allowance you'll sew along the long edges, and the extra inch on the length gives you room to close the short ends. Use a rotary cutter and mat if you have them—the cuts are cleaner and straighter—but scissors work if you cut slowly and keep the blade perpendicular to the fabric.

Cut a single rectangle, not two pieces. You'll fold this one piece in half lengthwise and sew the long edges together, which creates a tube. This method is stronger than sewing two pieces together end-to-end because you avoid a seam running down the middle of your finished runner.

Sew the long edges with right sides facing inward

Fold your fabric rectangle in half lengthwise with the right sides (the pretty sides) facing each other and the wrong sides (the dull sides) facing out. Pin along both long edges to hold them in place. Set your sewing machine to a straight stitch with a stitch length of 2.0 to 2.5 millimeters—this is a standard length for most machines and creates a seam that won't pucker.

Sew along one long edge using a 1/2-inch seam allowance. Start at one end and sew slowly, keeping the fabric edge aligned with the 1/2-inch mark on your presser foot. Stop about 6 inches before the end of the second long edge—this opening is how you'll turn the runner right-side out later. Backstitch at the start and end of each seam to lock the stitches. Remove pins as you go; don't sew over them, as this can break your needle.

Trim the seam allowance at the corners to reduce bulk when you turn the runner. Cut diagonally across each corner, about 1/4 inch from the stitching line. This prevents the corners from bunching up and gives you sharp, neat corners on the finished piece.

Turn the runner right-side out and press it flat

Reach through the 6-inch opening you left unsewn and grab the fabric from the inside. Gently pull the runner through the opening, turning it right-side out as you go. This takes patience—go slowly to avoid tearing the seams. Once the runner is turned, use a point turner (a small plastic or wooden tool) or the blunt end of a chopstick to push the corners out from the inside so they're sharp and square.

Lay the runner on your ironing board and press it flat with a hot iron. Press the seams first, running the iron along each seam line to flatten it. Then press the entire surface, paying special attention to the edges so they lie flat. Press the opening you left unsewn as well, folding the raw edges inward by 1/2 inch and creasing them with the iron. This makes closing the opening much easier.

Close the opening with a ladder stitch or topstitch

A ladder stitch (also called an invisible seam) closes the opening so the seam is nearly invisible on the finished runner. Thread a needle with thread that matches your fabric. Bring the needle out through the fold of fabric on one side of the opening, then insert it directly across into the fold on the other side. Slide the needle inside the fold for about 1/4 inch, then bring it back out. Cross back to the first side and repeat, creating a ladder pattern inside the fold. Every few stitches, pull the thread gently to close the opening. When you reach the end, tie off the thread inside the fold so the knot is hidden.

If you prefer a visible seam, use a topstitch instead. Fold the raw edges inward by 1/2 inch, pin them closed, and sew a straight line 1/4 inch from the edge using your sewing machine. This creates a decorative line that frames the opening and is much faster than a ladder stitch. Backstitch at the start and end to lock the stitches.

Wash, dry, and press your finished runner

Wash your runner in cool water on a gentle cycle, using mild detergent. Dry it on low heat or hang it to air-dry. High heat can damage some fabrics and may cause the thread to shrink at a different rate than the fabric, which can pucker the seams. Once it's dry, press it again with a hot iron to remove any wrinkles and set the shape.

If you used a fabric that bleeds color (like dark cotton or linen), wash it separately the first time. Wash it again with your regular laundry once you're confident the color won't run. Pressing after every wash keeps the runner looking crisp and new.

Frequently Asked Questions

What fabric is best for a table runner?

Cotton, linen, and cotton-linen blends are the most common choices because they're durable, straightforward to sew, and wash well. Avoid very stretchy fabrics like jersey or knits unless you have experience sewing them. Heavier fabrics like canvas or upholstery cotton hold their shape better than lightweight quilting cotton.

Can I add decorative stitching or trim to my runner?

Yes. You can sew a decorative stitch along the edges before you turn the runner right-side out, add lace or ribbon trim before closing the opening, or topstitch a pattern down the center after pressing. Keep decorative elements at least 1/2 inch from the edge so they don't get caught in the seams.

What if my seams are crooked or puckered?

Crooked seams are usually caused by not keeping the fabric edge aligned with the presser foot guide. Practice on scrap fabric first. Puckered seams often mean your thread tension is too tight; loosen it slightly and test on scrap fabric. If the damage is severe, use a seam ripper to remove the stitches and sew again.

How long should my table runner be?

A runner should hang 6 to 12 inches off each end of your table. Measure your table length and add 12 to 24 inches. A 36-inch table works well with a 60-inch runner; a 48-inch table needs a 72-inch runner. You can always trim it shorter if it's too long, but you can't add length once it's sewn.

Do I have to wash the fabric before sewing?

It's not required, but it's a good idea if you plan to wash the finished runner. Pre-washing prevents uneven shrinkage and color bleeding after you've sewn it. If you're making a runner you'll rarely wash, you can skip this step.