What You Need to Sew a T-Shirt

A basic t-shirt is one of the easiest garments to sew because it has only a few pieces and no closures. You will need a sewing machine (even a basic model works), thread that matches your fabric, a needle, scissors, pins, and a measuring tape. You will also need a pattern — either a commercial pattern from a fabric store or a free pattern printed from a website — and fabric. Cotton knit or jersey fabric is the most forgiving for beginners because it stretches slightly and hides small mistakes.

Before you buy fabric, check your pattern's yardage requirement. Most adult t-shirt patterns need 1.5 to 2 yards of 60-inch-wide fabric. Bring the pattern with you to the store so you can feel the weight and drape of different fabrics. Lightweight cotton jersey works well for summer shirts; heavier knits work for fall and winter.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut all pattern pieces from your fabric using sharp scissors or a rotary cutter, and mark grain lines and notches with a fabric pen so you know how to align the pieces.
  • Sew the shoulder seams first, then attach the sleeves, then sew the side seams and sleeve seams in one continuous line on each side.
  • Finish the neckline and armholes with a narrow binding or a rolled hem, which prevents the stretchy fabric from curling and fraying.
  • Hem the bottom of the shirt by folding the raw edge up twice and sewing it down, or use a twin needle for a professional-looking stretch hem.

Prepare Your Fabric and Pattern

Wash and dry your fabric before you cut, because knit fabrics shrink. Lay it flat on a clean table or floor and smooth out any wrinkles with your hands or a cool iron. Lay your pattern pieces on the fabric following the grain line marked on the pattern — this line should run parallel to the selvage (the finished edge). Pin the pattern pieces down so they do not shift while you cut.

Cut slowly and carefully with sharp scissors or a rotary cutter. Dull scissors will pull the fabric and create uneven edges. Once you have cut all the pieces, use a fabric pen or tailor's chalk to mark the notches (small cuts on the pattern edges) and any other markings on the fabric itself. These marks help you align pieces correctly when you sew.

Sew the Shoulder Seams

Place the front and back pieces with right sides together (the pretty sides facing each other) and pin the shoulder seams. Set your sewing machine to a straight stitch with a stitch length of 2.5 millimeters. Sew from the armhole edge toward the neckline, removing pins as you approach them. Backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam to lock the thread.

After sewing, try the shirt on inside-out to check the fit at the shoulders. If the seam pulls or feels tight, you can carefully cut the stitches and resew it slightly wider. Once you are happy with the fit, trim the seam allowance (the fabric between the stitching and the raw edge) to about half an inch and finish the raw edges with a zigzag stitch or a serger to prevent fraying.

Attach the Sleeves

Fold each sleeve in half lengthwise with right sides together and sew the underarm seam from the cuff to the armpit. Press this seam open with an iron. Now fold the shirt so the right side faces out and pin one sleeve into the armhole, matching the notches on the sleeve cap to the notches on the body. The sleeve should fit smoothly into the armhole without puckering.

Sew the sleeve in place with a straight stitch, sewing slowly around the curve. The fabric will want to bunch, so hold it gently taut as you sew. After sewing, try the shirt on to check the sleeve length and position. You can adjust the seam if needed before moving on. Trim and finish the seam allowance the same way you did for the shoulders.

Sew the Side and Sleeve Seams

This step is faster than it sounds: you will sew one long seam on each side of the shirt that connects the underarm, side, and sleeve cuff in one line. Fold the shirt so right sides are together and pin from the cuff of one sleeve, down the side of the body, and to the cuff of the other sleeve. Sew this entire seam in one pass, backstitching at the start and end.

Repeat on the other side. Press both seams open with an iron. Try the shirt on to check the fit at the sides and sleeves. The side seams should sit on the sides of your body, not wrap around to the front or back. If they do, you can take them in or let them out slightly by resewing them.

Finish the Neckline and Armholes

The raw edges of the neckline and armholes will curl and fray if you leave them unfinished. The easiest method is to use bias binding — a pre-made strip of fabric that you fold over the raw edge and sew down. Fold the binding in half lengthwise and slide the raw edge of the neckline into the fold. Pin it in place all the way around, then sew it down with a straight stitch, sewing as close to the edge of the binding as you can.

If you do not have bias binding, you can make a narrow rolled hem instead. Fold the raw edge to the inside of the shirt by about a quarter inch, press it with an iron, then fold it again and press. Sew it down with a straight stitch or a narrow zigzag. This method takes longer but looks clean and professional once you practice it.

Hem the Bottom of the Shirt

Try the shirt on and have someone mark where the hem should hit — usually at your hip bone or slightly lower. Take the shirt off and measure from the bottom edge to your mark. Add half an inch and cut the shirt to that length. Fold the raw edge up by half an inch and press it with an iron. Fold it up again by another half inch and press. This creates a double-fold hem that will not fray.

Sew the hem down with a straight stitch, sewing as close to the inner fold as you can. For a more professional look on a knit fabric, use a twin needle — a special needle with two shafts that creates two parallel rows of stitching on top and a zigzag on the back. This allows the hem to stretch with the fabric without breaking. Sew slowly and do not pull the fabric.

Common Mistakes to Avoid

The most common mistake is sewing with the wrong thread tension, which causes loops or puckering. Test your tension on a scrap of fabric before you start. If the top thread is too tight, loosen it slightly; if the bobbin thread shows on top, tighten it. Another mistake is using a needle that is too small or dull — use a ballpoint needle designed for knits, and change it after every project or two.

Many beginners also stretch the fabric while sewing, which distorts the seams. Let the machine feed the fabric at its own pace and hold it gently without pulling. Finally, do not skip the pressing step. Pressing seams open as you go makes the finished shirt look more professional and makes it easier to sew the next seam accurately.

Frequently Asked Questions

What type of needle should I use for a t-shirt?

Use a ballpoint or stretch needle in size 70/10 or 80/12, depending on the weight of your fabric. Ballpoint needles have a rounded tip that slides between fibers in knit fabric instead of piercing them, which prevents runs and laddering. Change your needle after every project or if you notice skipped stitches.

Can I sew a t-shirt on a regular sewing machine?

Yes. A basic sewing machine with a straight stitch and zigzag stitch is all you need. A serger makes finishing seams faster and neater, but it is not required. Many sewers make beautiful t-shirts on machines that cost under one hundred dollars.

How do I fix puckered seams?

Puckering usually means your tension is too tight or you are pulling the fabric while sewing. Loosen your top tension slightly and test on a scrap. If the problem persists, check that your needle is the right size and not bent, and that you are using the correct presser foot for knit fabric. Some machines have a special foot that prevents puckering.

What should I do if my sleeves are too tight?

If the sleeves feel snug but not uncomfortable, wear the shirt a few times — knit fabric relaxes slightly with wear. If they are truly too tight, you can carefully cut the stitches and resew the sleeve seam slightly wider. You may need to remove the binding or hem to access the seam.

How much does it cost to sew a t-shirt?

Fabric costs between five and fifteen dollars per yard depending on quality and where you shop. A basic t-shirt uses 1.5 to 2 yards, so fabric alone costs seven to thirty dollars. Patterns cost five to ten dollars, though free patterns are available online. Thread costs two to four dollars per spool.