The four main ways to finish an edge

A raw fabric edge will fray — the threads at the cut line come loose and the edge unravels. You stop this by sealing or folding the edge so the threads can't escape. The method you pick depends on what the fabric is, what the garment is, and how much time you want to spend.

The simplest is a zigzag stitch, which you run along the raw edge on a regular sewing machine. It catches the loose threads and locks them down. A rolled hem folds the edge over itself twice and stitches it flat — it's narrow and neat, used on lightweight fabrics and scarves. A bound edge wraps a strip of fabric or bias tape around the raw edge and stitches it down, which is durable and visible. A French seam encloses the raw edges inside the seam itself, so nothing shows on either side — it takes two passes but works well on sheer fabrics.

Key Takeaways

  • A zigzag stitch is the fastest method and works on most fabrics; set your machine to a medium width and length and run it along the raw edge.
  • A rolled hem creates a narrow, finished edge on lightweight fabrics by folding the edge twice and stitching it down, but requires practice to keep even.
  • Bias tape or fabric strips wrapped around the edge and stitched down create a bound edge that is visible and decorative, and works on heavier fabrics.
  • A French seam hides raw edges inside the seam by sewing twice — first with wrong sides together, then with right sides together — and suits sheer or delicate fabrics.

Zigzag stitch: the standard approach

Set your machine to a zigzag stitch at medium width (around 2.5 to 3.5 millimeters) and medium length (around 2 to 2.5 millimeters). The exact numbers depend on your machine, so check your manual. Place the raw edge under the presser foot so the needle goes just past the edge on both the left and right swing — if the needle misses the edge on either side, the stitch won't catch the loose threads.

Sew slowly and keep the edge straight. The zigzag will lock the threads and prevent fraying. This works on cotton, linen, knits, and most woven fabrics. On very lightweight or delicate fabrics, use a narrower width so the stitch doesn't pucker the edge. On heavy fabrics like denim or canvas, you can widen the stitch slightly for more coverage.

The finished edge will be visible on the inside of the garment, so if you're making something where the inside shows (a scarf, a pillowcase, a bag), this is fine. If you want the inside to look polished, choose a different method.

Rolled hem: for lightweight fabrics and scarves

A rolled hem folds the edge over itself twice and stitches it down, creating a narrow, finished edge. It works best on cotton voile, linen, silk, and other lightweight fabrics. Start by folding the raw edge toward the wrong side of the fabric by about one-quarter inch, then fold it again by another one-quarter inch so the raw edge is now hidden inside the fold. Press the fold flat with an iron.

Stitch close to the inner fold — the needle should catch all the layers. Use a straight stitch and keep the fold even as you sew. The result is a narrow, clean edge that looks the same on both sides. This takes practice to keep the fold width consistent, but once you develop the feel for it, you can work quickly.

On very thin fabrics like silk charmeuse, you can make the folds even narrower — one-eighth inch each — for a delicate edge. On slightly heavier fabrics, one-quarter inch per fold is standard. If the edge is curved, fold and stitch in short sections so the fold doesn't bunch.

Bound edge: using bias tape or fabric strips

A bound edge wraps a strip of fabric or bias tape around the raw edge and stitches it down. This is visible and decorative, so it's often a design choice. Bias tape (pre-folded strips sold in fabric stores) is the fastest option. Open out one fold of the bias tape, place the raw edge of your fabric inside the opened tape, and pin it so the tape is centered on the edge.

Sew along the crease of the tape using a straight stitch. Then fold the tape to the other side of the fabric and stitch it down again, close to the inner fold. The tape now wraps the edge and is stitched on both sides. You can use store-bought bias tape in matching or contrasting colors, or cut your own strips from fabric.

If you cut your own strips, cut them on the bias (at a 45-degree angle to the grain) so they stretch around curves without puckering. A strip about one and one-half inches wide, folded in half lengthwise, works for most edges. This method is durable and works on all fabric weights, from lightweight cotton to heavy canvas.

French seam: hiding edges inside the seam

A French seam encloses the raw edges inside the seam itself, so nothing shows on either side. It requires two passes but is worth it on sheer fabrics or garments where both sides will be visible. Start by placing two pieces of fabric with wrong sides together (the sides you don't want to see facing each other). Sew a seam about one-half inch from the edge using a straight stitch.

Trim the seam allowance down to one-quarter inch. Now turn the fabric so the right sides are together (the sides you do want to see facing each other) and sew again one-quarter inch from the fold. This second seam encloses the raw edges of the first seam inside the new seam. Press the seam to one side.

The result is a seam with no raw edges visible on either side. This works especially well on lightweight, sheer fabrics where a zigzag stitch might show through or pucker. It also works on delicate fabrics like silk or chiffon. The downside is that it takes twice as long and uses more fabric (you need wider seam allowances to start with).

Choosing the right method for your fabric

Lightweight fabrics like voile, lawn, and silk benefit from a rolled hem or French seam because a zigzag stitch can pucker them. Medium-weight fabrics like cotton broadcloth and linen work with any method — zigzag is fastest, a bound edge is decorative, and a French seam is the most polished. Heavy fabrics like denim, canvas, and wool are best finished with a zigzag stitch or a bound edge; a rolled hem will be too bulky and a French seam wastes fabric.

Knit fabrics (jersey, rib, fleece) don't fray the way woven fabrics do, but they can curl at the edges. A narrow zigzag stitch or a rolled hem will flatten the curl. Stretchy knits may need a slightly narrower zigzag so the stitch doesn't break when the fabric moves.

Consider also where the edge will be seen. If it's on the inside of a garment that won't be visible, a zigzag stitch is fine. If the inside will show (a scarf, a bag, a reversible garment), a rolled hem, bound edge, or French seam looks better. If the edge is decorative and meant to be seen, a bound edge in a contrasting color can be a design feature.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

The most common mistake with a zigzag stitch is setting the width too narrow, so the needle misses the raw edge on one side. Test on a scrap of the same fabric first and adjust the width until the needle catches the edge on both the left and right swing. If the stitch is puckering the fabric, narrow the width and slow down your sewing speed.

With a rolled hem, the most common mistake is making the folds uneven, which creates a wavy edge. Fold and press carefully, and use the presser foot as a guide — most presser feet are one-quarter inch wide, so you can align the fold with the edge of the foot. If the fold keeps slipping, use a narrow strip of painter's tape as a guide line.

With bias tape, the most common mistake is not centering the tape on the edge before sewing, so one side of the tape ends up wider than the other. Pin the tape carefully before you sew, and check that the raw edge is in the middle of the opened tape. With a French seam, the mistake is not trimming the first seam allowance down enough, which makes the second seam bulky. Trim it to one-quarter inch or less.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a zigzag stitch on a curved edge?

Yes. Sew slowly and guide the fabric so the raw edge stays straight under the presser foot. On a tight curve, you may need to stop with the needle down, lift the presser foot, adjust the fabric, and continue. The zigzag will follow the curve as long as you keep the edge aligned.

What if I don't have bias tape — can I make my own?

Yes. Cut strips of fabric on the bias (at a 45-degree angle to the grain) about one and one-half inches wide. Fold the strip in half lengthwise with wrong sides together and press it flat. You now have bias tape. This works best on cotton and linen; stretchy fabrics are harder to cut and fold evenly.

Do I have to finish every edge of a garment?

No. Seams that are sewn and pressed flat (like the side seams of a shirt) don't always need finishing if the garment will be worn and washed normally. Edges that will be handled a lot (armholes, necklines, hems) should be finished to prevent fraying. Edges on the inside that won't be seen can be left raw if you prefer.

What stitch should I use on stretchy knit fabric?

A narrow zigzag stitch (width 2 to 2.5 millimeters) works well because it stretches slightly with the fabric. Some machines have a special stretch stitch designed for knits — check your manual. A rolled hem also works on lightweight knits and looks neat.

Can I finish an edge by hand if I don't have a sewing machine?

Yes. A hand-sewn whip stitch or slip stitch can close a folded edge, and a hand-sewn zigzag (called a blanket stitch) can lock down a raw edge. Both are slower than machine sewing but work on any fabric. Use a needle and thread that match the fabric color.