A tree skirt is a fabric circle that wraps around the base of your tree to hide the stand

A tree skirt is straightforward a large circle of fabric with an opening on one side so you can slip it around the tree trunk and stand. You sew it from two layers of fabric (or quilted fabric), add a backing, and finish the edges. The whole project takes an afternoon once you have your materials, and you do not need a serger or special tools—a basic sewing machine and a measuring tape are enough.

The finished skirt usually sits flat on the floor and reaches from the tree stand to just under the lowest branches. Most tree skirts are 36 to 48 inches in diameter, though you can make yours larger or smaller depending on your tree. The opening is typically 6 to 8 inches wide so the fabric slides easily over the trunk.

Key Takeaways

  • Measure your tree stand's width and add 2 to 3 inches to find the opening size you need.
  • Cut two identical circles from your outer fabric and one from batting or backing, using a string compass or a large plate as a guide.
  • Sew the two outer circles together with right sides facing, leaving the opening unsewn, then turn the skirt right-side out through that opening.
  • Topstitch around the entire edge to seal the opening and hold all layers together.
  • Add a decorative trim or binding to the opening edge if you want a finished look.

Measure your tree and gather your materials

Start by measuring the width of your tree stand from edge to edge. Add 2 to 3 inches to that measurement—this is the width of the opening you will cut into your skirt. For example, if your stand is 24 inches wide, your opening will be about 26 to 27 inches.

Next, decide how large you want the finished skirt to be. Measure from the center of your tree stand outward to where you want the edge to fall (usually just under the lowest branches). Double that number to get your diameter. If that distance is 20 inches, your skirt diameter will be 40 inches.

For materials, you will need two pieces of outer fabric (cotton, velvet, or quilted fabric work well), one piece of batting or muslin for the middle layer, and thread that matches or complements your fabric. Most tree skirts use 1.5 to 2 yards of 45-inch-wide fabric total, depending on your diameter. You may also want bias tape or trim for the opening edge, though this is optional.

Cut your fabric circles and opening

The easiest way to cut a perfect circle is to make a string compass. Tie a pencil to one end of a piece of string. Measure the string so the distance from the pencil to the other end equals your radius (half your diameter). Pin or hold the string end at the center of your fabric, pull the string taut, and draw a circle. Repeat on all three fabric pieces—your two outer fabrics and your batting.

Once you have your three circles, mark the opening on one of the outer fabric circles. Find the center point and measure outward along one edge. Mark a line from the center outward that is half your opening width (so if your opening is 26 inches, mark 13 inches out). Draw a straight line across the circle at that point. This is where you will cut the opening.

Cut along that line on both outer fabric circles and the batting. You now have two outer circles with matching openings and one batting circle with a matching opening. Keep the pieces organized so you do not mix them up.

Sew the outer circles together

Place your two outer fabric circles with right sides facing (the pretty sides touching each other). The openings should line up. Pin around the entire outer edge, then sew with a 1/2-inch seam allowance all the way around. Use a straight stitch and keep your seam line even.

When you reach the opening, sew right up to the edge of the opening on both sides, then stop. Do not sew across the opening itself—you need that gap to turn the skirt right-side out. Backstitch at the beginning and end of each seam to lock the stitches.

Trim the seam allowance to 1/4 inch all the way around, being careful not to cut your stitches. This reduces bulk when you turn the skirt. Clip small notches around the curved edge every 2 to 3 inches (cut toward the seam but not through it). These notches let the fabric curve smoothly when you turn it right-side out.

Insert the batting and turn the skirt right-side out

Reach through the opening and pull the skirt right-side out. The pretty fabric is now on the outside and the seams are hidden inside. Gently push out the curved edge with your fingers so it lies flat and smooth.

Now slide the batting circle into the opening, centering it between the two outer fabric layers. The batting should sit flat against the inner surface of the top outer circle. Smooth it out so there are no wrinkles or bunches.

Fold the raw edges of the opening inward about 1/2 inch on both the top and bottom fabric layers. Press with an iron to crease the fold. Pin the opening closed, making sure the batting stays centered and does not shift.

Topstitch the entire edge and seal the opening

Thread your machine with thread that matches your outer fabric. Starting at one side of the opening, sew all the way around the outer edge of the skirt with a 1/4-inch seam allowance. This topstitching holds all three layers together and seals the opening at the same time.

Sew slowly around the curves so your line stays even. When you reach the opening, sew right across it, catching the folded edges you pressed earlier. Continue around the rest of the circle and backstitch when you reach your starting point.

If you want extra durability, sew a second line 1/2 inch inward from the first, all the way around. This creates a quilted look and holds the batting even more securely.

Add trim to the opening (optional but recommended)

The opening edges are now sealed but may look raw or unfinished. Bias tape or double-fold binding covers those edges and adds a polished look. Measure the length of your opening and buy bias tape that length plus 2 inches.

Open the bias tape and pin it along the opening edge on the top side of the skirt, with the tape centered over the edge. Sew along the first fold line of the tape using a 1/4-inch seam allowance. Fold the tape to the back side and hand-stitch or machine-stitch it down, or use a blind stitch on your machine if it has one.

Alternatively, you can use decorative trim like pom-pom trim, rickrack, or ribbon. Pin it along the opening edge and sew it down with a straight stitch or zigzag stitch, depending on the trim type and the look you want.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I make a tree skirt without batting?

Yes. You can sew two layers of fabric together without batting in the middle, and the skirt will still work. It will be thinner and less structured, but it will drape around the stand just fine. If you want more body, use a heavier fabric like velvet or quilted cotton instead of batting.

What if my tree stand is very wide or oddly shaped?

Measure the widest point of your stand and add 3 inches to be safe. If the stand has legs that stick out, you may need a larger opening. You can always make the opening bigger by cutting further into the circle, but you cannot make it smaller without resewing.

How do I keep the skirt from sliding around the tree?

A tree skirt naturally stays in place because of its weight and the friction between the fabric and the stand. If yours slides, add a piece of non-slip shelf liner or rubber rug pad to the underside of the skirt where it touches the stand. Glue it down with fabric glue or sew it on by hand.

Can I use a serger to finish the edges?

Yes, a serger creates a very neat, professional finish on the outer edge. Serge the edge after you trim the seam allowance but before you turn the skirt right-side out. This is optional—a regular sewing machine works perfectly well.

What fabric works best for a tree skirt?

Cotton, cotton blends, velvet, and quilted cotton are all good choices. Avoid stretchy fabrics like knits, which can distort the circle. Heavier fabrics hold their shape better than lightweight ones. If you want a festive look, use holiday-themed cotton or quilted fabric; if you want something versatile, solid colors or subtle patterns work year-round.