What a valance is and why you might sew one
A valance is a short curtain panel that covers the top of a window, usually hanging from a rod or board. It hides the curtain rod and hardware while adding a finished look to your window. Sewing your own valance costs less than buying one ready-made and lets you choose the exact fabric, length, and style that matches your room.
Valances work well in bedrooms, living rooms, and kitchens. They pair with full-length curtains, sheer panels, or blinds underneath. Because they are smaller than full curtains, they use less fabric and sew faster — a good first project if you are new to curtain-making.
Key Takeaways
- Measure your window width and decide how deep you want the valance to hang (usually 12 to 18 inches), then add seam allowances and hem space to your fabric calculations.
- Cut two pieces of fabric — one for the front and one for the lining — and sew them together with right sides facing, leaving an opening at the bottom to turn the valance right-side out.
- Press the seams flat, turn the valance through the opening, and stitch the opening closed by hand or machine before hanging.
- Attach the valance to a rod, board, or mounting strip using a rod pocket, tabs, or hook-and-loop tape, depending on your window hardware.
Measuring your window and calculating fabric
Start by measuring the width of your window or the rod you plan to use. Measure from the outside edge of one bracket to the outside edge of the other. Write this number down — this is your finished width.
Next, decide how far down you want the valance to hang. Most valances are 12 to 18 inches deep. Measure from the rod or board down to where you want the bottom edge to fall. This is your finished depth.
Now add seam allowances and hem space. Add 1 inch to the width (0.5 inch on each side for seams). Add 3 inches to the depth: 0.5 inch at the top for the rod pocket or attachment method, 0.5 inch at the bottom for a hem, and 2 inches extra so the lining does not show at the edges. This gives you your cut size. You will cut two pieces this size — one for the front fabric and one for the lining.
For example: if your window is 48 inches wide and you want the valance 14 inches deep, your cut size is 49 inches wide by 17 inches tall.
Choosing fabric and gathering supplies
Pick a fabric weight that holds its shape — medium-weight cotton, linen blends, or home décor fabric work well. Avoid very thin fabrics like voile or very heavy ones like velvet if this is your first valance. You will also need lining fabric, which is usually a neutral cotton blend.
Gather these supplies before you start: fabric scissors or a rotary cutter, a measuring tape, pins, thread that matches your front fabric, a sewing machine, an iron, and a needle for hand-stitching. If you plan to use a rod pocket, you will also need a curtain rod that fits your window.
Wash and dry both your front fabric and lining if they are cotton, to prevent shrinking later. Press them flat with an iron before cutting.
Cutting and pinning the fabric pieces
Lay your front fabric on a flat surface, wrong side up. Measure and mark your cut size with a ruler and fabric pencil or chalk. Cut along the lines with sharp scissors or a rotary cutter and mat. Repeat with your lining fabric.
Place the front fabric and lining fabric with right sides facing — the pretty sides of the fabric touching each other. Pin around all four edges, leaving a 4-inch opening at the bottom center. This opening is where you will turn the valance right-side out later.
Double-check that the opening is marked clearly with pins so you do not accidentally sew it shut.
Sewing the valance together
Thread your sewing machine with thread that matches your front fabric. Set the machine to a straight stitch with a stitch length of 2.5 to 3. Sew around all four edges of the pinned fabrics using a 0.5-inch seam allowance. Start at one corner and sew slowly around the perimeter, stopping just before you reach the opening you marked.
Backstitch at the start and end of each seam to lock the thread. When you reach the opening, leave it unsewn and backstitch to find the thread.
Trim the corners diagonally, cutting away the excess fabric at each corner about 0.25 inch from the seam. This reduces bulk when you turn the valance right-side out and makes the corners lie flat.
Turning, pressing, and closing the opening
Reach through the 4-inch opening and grab the top corner of the valance. Gently pull the entire valance through the opening, turning it right-side out. Use a point turner or the blunt end of a pencil to push the corners out fully so they are sharp and square.
Press the entire valance flat with an iron, paying special attention to the seams. Press the edges of the opening flat as well, folding the raw edges inward by 0.5 inch on both the front and lining.
Close the opening by hand or machine. For a hand-sewn finish, thread a needle and use a ladder stitch (also called a slip stitch) to close the opening invisibly. For a machine-sewn finish, topstitch 0.25 inch from the edge all the way around the valance, which will close the opening and add a decorative line.
Attaching the valance to your window
The method you use depends on your window hardware. If you sewed a rod pocket (a channel at the top), slide your curtain rod through it and hang the rod on your brackets. If you used tabs or ties, sew them to the top edge before turning the valance right-side out, then hang the tabs over the rod.
For a cleaner look, attach the valance to a mounting board using hook-and-loop tape. Sew the loop side (the soft side) to the top back of the valance. Attach the hook side (the rough side) to the board with a staple gun. Press the valance onto the board so the two sides grip each other.
Hang the board above your window using brackets rated for the weight of your fabric. Step back and adjust the valance so it hangs evenly and the folds fall naturally.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need a rod pocket or can I use something else?
A rod pocket is the simplest method for beginners, but you have other options. Tabs sewn to the top edge work well and look more casual. Hook-and-loop tape gives a very clean, tailored appearance. Choose based on the style you want and the hardware you already have.
What if my fabric is patterned — does the pattern matter?
Yes. If your fabric has a large pattern or a directional print, plan ahead so the pattern is centered and right-side up when the valance hangs. Lay out both pieces before cutting to see how the pattern will look. You may need extra fabric to match the pattern across the seams.
Can I make a valance without a lining?
You can, but lining gives a more finished look and helps the valance hold its shape. Without lining, the back of the fabric shows, and light can shine through. If you skip the lining, finish the raw edges with bias tape or a zigzag stitch to prevent fraying.
How much fabric do I actually need to buy?
Buy at least your cut width plus 2 inches (for straightening the edge) and your cut depth plus 2 inches. If your fabric has a pattern you need to match, buy extra. Most fabric stores sell by the yard, so round up to the nearest half-yard to be safe.
What if my valance looks crooked after I hang it?
Remove it and check that your rod or board is level using a spirit level. If the rod is level but the valance still looks uneven, the fabric may have stretched on one side during sewing. You can rehang it slightly higher or lower on one end to compensate, or remove it and re-press the seams.