What an awl does and when to use it
An awl is a pointed tool that makes holes in material so you can push thread through without tearing the fabric or breaking a needle. Unlike a sewing needle, which pierces and carries thread in one motion, an awl creates the hole first — you then use a separate needle to stitch. This two-step method works best on heavy fabrics like leather, canvas, denim, and upholstery where a regular needle would bend or break.
You use an awl when hand-sewing thick materials, repairing work boots, patching heavy canvas bags, or stitching leather goods. The tool saves your hands from the strain of forcing a needle through resistant material and prevents needle breakage that costs time and frustration. For lightweight cotton or silk, a regular needle works fine and is faster — the awl is for jobs where the fabric fights back.
Key Takeaways
- An awl punches a hole; you then thread a needle through that hole, separating the piercing step from the stitching step.
- Hold the awl upright, brace the material against a solid surface, and push straight down with steady pressure rather than twisting.
- Space your holes evenly by measuring with a ruler or marking a line with chalk before you start.
- Use a thimble on the hand holding the needle to protect your finger when pushing the needle through the pre-made hole.
- Awls work best on leather, canvas, heavy denim, and upholstery — not on delicate or stretchy fabrics.
Setting up your work surface and material
Place your material on a solid, flat surface — a wooden table, cutting board, or workbench. The surface underneath matters because you need something to push against; if you hold the fabric in the air, the awl will slip or bend. Leather and canvas should lie flat and still. If the piece is small or floppy, weight it down with a book or clamp at the edges so it does not shift while you work.
Mark your stitch line before you start. Use a ruler and chalk, a pencil, or a fabric marker to draw a light line where your stitches will go. For straightforward repairs, you can eyeball it, but marking takes thirty seconds and prevents crooked seams. If you are stitching two pieces together, align them first, then mark through both layers so the holes match on both sides.
How to hold and use the awl
Grip the awl like a pencil, with your thumb and first two fingers wrapped around the handle. Your hand should be relaxed — tension makes the tool harder to control. Position the point straight down on your marked line, perpendicular to the fabric. This angle matters: if you tilt the awl, the hole will be angled and your needle will not go through cleanly.
Push down with steady, even pressure. Do not twist or wiggle the awl side to side; that widens the hole and weakens the stitch. For thick leather or multiple layers, you may need to push hard, but the motion is always straight down. Once the point breaks through the back of the material, you can stop — you do not need to push the entire awl through. Lift straight up and move to your next marked spot.
Space your holes about one-quarter inch apart for most seams, or closer if you want a stronger stitch. Measure the distance with a ruler the first time so you know what one-quarter inch looks like, then use that as your eye guide for the rest of the seam. Consistent spacing makes the seam look neat and distributes stress evenly across the stitches.
Threading the needle and stitching through awl holes
Once you have punched all your holes, thread a needle with thread suited to your material. For leather, use waxed thread or heavy-duty thread; for canvas, regular thread works but thicker thread is stronger. Tie a knot at one end of the thread. Push the needle through the first hole from one side, pull the thread taut, and the knot will catch on the back and hold the thread in place.
Push the needle through the next hole. Because the awl has already made the opening, the needle goes through with less force than it would in unpierced fabric. Use a thimble on the finger of your needle hand — the one pushing the needle — to protect your fingertip from the needle point. The thimble takes the pressure so your skin does not get sore or punctured.
Pull the thread snug after each stitch, but not so tight that you pucker the material. The goal is a seam that lies flat and holds the pieces together. If you are stitching leather or thick canvas, you may feel resistance; that is normal. Keep the tension steady and the stitches will hold.
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
The most common error is tilting the awl instead of pushing straight down. A tilted hole is wider and weaker, and the needle will not sit properly in the opening. Keep the awl perpendicular to the surface every time. If you notice a hole is angled, you can still stitch through it, but the seam will be less strong.
Spacing holes unevenly makes the seam look sloppy and puts uneven stress on the thread. Mark your line and measure the first few holes until you develop a feel for the distance. Rushing this step costs time later when you have to rip out and redo a crooked seam.
Pushing the needle through without a thimble is tempting on the first few stitches, but your finger will hurt and you risk puncturing the skin. Use the thimble from the start — it takes two seconds to put on and saves your hand from pain and injury.
Choosing the right awl for your project
Most hand-sewing awls have a wooden or plastic handle and a steel point. The size of the point matters: a finer point works for canvas and heavy fabric, while a thicker point is better for leather because it makes a hole large enough for thick thread to pass through without fraying. For most home repairs, a standard awl with a point about the thickness of a sewing needle is sufficient.
Specialized awls exist for specific work — sailmakers use larger awls for heavy canvas, and leatherworkers sometimes use awls with diamond-shaped points that cut cleaner holes. For patching jeans, repairing a canvas bag, or fixing a leather strap, a basic awl from a hardware store costs five to fifteen dollars and will last for years. You do not need an expensive tool to start.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use an awl on fabric other than leather and canvas?
Yes, but it is not necessary. Awls work on any material, but they are most useful on thick, stiff fabrics that resist a regular needle. On cotton, linen, or blended fabrics of normal weight, a needle alone is faster and easier. Use an awl if the needle bends or if you are stitching multiple layers together and want to reduce strain on your hands.
What if the awl point breaks?
A broken awl point cannot be repaired — you will need a new awl. Breakage usually happens if you twist the awl while it is in the material or if you drop the tool on a hard surface. Prevent it by pushing straight down and storing the awl in a safe place where it will not get knocked around. A replacement awl is inexpensive enough that keeping a spare is practical.
Do I have to use waxed thread with an awl?
No, but waxed thread is stronger and slides through pre-made holes more smoothly than regular thread. For leather, waxed thread is worth the small extra cost because it resists fraying and holds up to the friction of thick material. For canvas, regular thread works, but waxed thread lasts longer if the item will get heavy use.
How do I know if my holes are spaced correctly?
Measure the first few with a ruler — aim for one-quarter inch apart for most seams. Once you have punched five or six holes at that distance, you will have a visual sense of the spacing and can continue by eye. If you notice the holes are drifting closer together or farther apart, stop and remeasure before you continue.
Can I use an awl on both sides of a seam at once?
Yes. Align your two pieces, mark a line through both layers, and punch through both at once. This ensures the holes match on both sides so the needle goes through cleanly. For thick materials, you may need more force, but the result is a stronger, neater seam than if you punch each side separately.