An awl punches holes; you thread them to stitch leather and canvas
An awl is a pointed tool that makes holes in material too thick for a needle alone. You use it to pierce leather, canvas, or heavy upholstery, then pass thread through the holes you've made. Unlike machine sewing or regular hand sewing with a needle, awl work is slower and more deliberate—but it's the standard way to repair leather goods, make leather bags, or stitch canvas by hand.
The basic sequence is: mark your stitch line, punch holes with the awl, thread a needle, and pass it through each hole. The holes stay visible as part of the finished seam, which is why awl stitching looks distinctive. You're not hiding the thread path; you're making it part of the design.
Key Takeaways
- An awl creates holes in thick material; you then thread a needle through those holes to form a seam.
- Mark your stitch line with a ruler and pencil or chalk before you start punching, so your holes run straight.
- Space holes consistently—usually 1/8 inch to 1/4 inch apart—and punch straight down so the hole goes all the way through.
- Use waxed thread or heavy-duty thread, not regular sewing thread, because it won't fray and holds up in leather.
- A saddle stitch (two needles, one hole at a time) is stronger than a single-needle stitch and is the standard for leather repair.
Choosing the right awl for your material
Awls come in different shapes, and the one you pick depends on what you're sewing. A straight awl (also called a pricking iron or stitching awl) has a long, thin, pointed shaft and is the most common for hand sewing leather and canvas. A diamond-shaped awl cuts a small slit rather than a round hole, which can help thread pass through more easily on very thick leather. A round awl makes a clean round hole and is gentler on delicate materials.
For most home repairs—a leather jacket, a canvas bag, a torn saddle—a straight awl is what you'll reach for. They're inexpensive and work on everything from thin leather to heavy canvas. If you're working on something very thick (like a leather belt or harness), a diamond awl can make the job easier because the slit-shaped hole gives the thread more room to move.
The handle matters too. A wooden or plastic handle with a good grip reduces hand fatigue. Some awls have a metal ferrule (the band where the shaft meets the handle) that keeps the handle from splitting when you strike it with a mallet.
Marking and spacing your stitch line
Before you punch a single hole, mark where your seam will run. Use a ruler and a pencil, ballpoint pen, or chalk—whatever shows clearly on your material. Draw a straight line where you want the stitches to go. If you're sewing two pieces together, mark the line on the piece that will be on top so you can see it as you work.
Next, mark where each hole should go. Space them evenly—1/8 inch to 1/4 inch apart is standard, depending on how strong you need the seam and how thick the material is. Thicker leather usually gets holes farther apart; thin leather or canvas can have them closer. You can use a ruler and make small tick marks, or use a stitching wheel (a tool with small spikes that rolls along a line and marks evenly spaced dots). A stitching wheel is faster if you're doing a lot of sewing, but a ruler and pencil work fine for one or two seams.
Consistent spacing is what makes the finished seam look professional. Uneven holes are visible and draw the eye, so take time with this step.
Punching holes with steady pressure
Place the awl point on your first mark and push straight down. For thin leather or canvas, hand pressure alone may be enough. For thicker material, use a mallet or small hammer to strike the top of the awl handle, driving the point through. Strike firmly but not wildly—you want the awl to go all the way through both layers (if you're sewing two pieces together) in one motion.
Keep the awl perpendicular to the surface. If it tilts, the hole won't line up with the next one, and threading becomes difficult. Some people brace the awl handle against their body or clamp the material to a work surface to keep both hands free—one to hold the awl steady, one to strike it.
Work your way along the line, punching one hole at a time. Don't punch all the holes at once and then thread; punch and thread as you go, or punch a few ahead so you can see the line clearly. If you're sewing two pieces together, make sure the awl goes through both layers each time.
Threading and the saddle stitch
Use waxed thread or heavy-duty thread rated for leather, not regular sewing thread. Waxed thread resists fraying, holds knots better, and won't break under the stress of thick material. Common choices are linen thread, nylon thread, or thread specifically sold as "saddle stitch thread." The thread should be thick enough to see and handle easily—usually 0.5 mm to 1 mm in diameter.
Cut a length of thread about 3 to 4 feet long. The saddle stitch (the standard for leather) uses two needles on one thread. Thread both ends of the thread through separate needles, so you have one long thread with a needle at each end. Tie a knot at the midpoint if you want, though many people skip this.
Start at one end of your seam. Push one needle through the first hole from the front, and push the other needle through the same hole from the back. Pull both needles tight so the thread sits snug in the hole. Now move to the next hole: push the first needle through from the front, push the second needle through from the back. The two needles cross in the middle of the material, which is what locks the stitch and makes it strong.
Keep tension even as you go. The thread should be snug but not so tight that it distorts the material. When you reach the end, tie off both needles on the back side with a knot, or weave the thread back through a few stitches to lock it.
Common mistakes and how to avoid them
Holes that don't line up are the most common problem. This happens when the awl tilts or when you don't mark evenly. Use a ruler and take time with spacing. If a hole is slightly off, you can often thread through it anyway, but multiple misaligned holes make the seam weak and ugly.
Punching only partway through is another frequent mistake, especially on thick leather. Make sure the awl goes all the way through both layers. If you're not sure, flip the material over and check that the hole is visible on the back before you move on.
Using the wrong thread is a third pitfall. Regular sewing thread will fray and break under the stress of leather. Waxed thread or thread sold specifically for saddle stitching is worth the small extra cost.
Uneven tension makes the seam look sloppy and can cause the thread to slip. Pull each stitch snug as you go, but not so hard that you distort the material or break the thread.
When to use a single needle versus two
A saddle stitch (two needles, one thread) is stronger and is the standard for anything that will take stress—leather bags, jackets, belts, or any repair that needs to last. The crossing of the needles locks the stitch and makes it nearly impossible to unravel.
A single-needle stitch is simpler and faster. You thread one needle and push it through each hole, then come back through the same hole from the other side, creating a loop on the surface. This works for decorative stitching or light-duty repairs, but it's not as strong as a saddle stitch and can come undone if the thread breaks at any point.
For most repairs, use the saddle stitch. It takes a little longer to learn, but once you have the rhythm, it's not much slower than single-needle work, and the result is much more durable.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use a regular sewing needle with an awl?
A regular sewing needle is too thin and will bend or break in thick leather. Use a leather needle or saddle stitch needle, which are thicker and have a sharper point. They're designed to push through pre-made holes without bending.
What if I punch a hole in the wrong spot?
If the hole is close to where it should be, you can often thread through it anyway and the mistake won't be visible. If it's far off, you can leave it empty and let the thread skip that hole, or you can start over on a different part of the material. Leather doesn't close up, so the extra hole will stay visible, but one stray hole in a long seam is usually not noticeable.
How do I keep the material from moving while I punch?
Clamp the material to a work surface or hold it firmly against a wooden block. Some people place the material on a cutting mat or leather pad to protect the work surface and give the awl something to bite into. A sandbag under the material also works—it absorbs the mallet strike and keeps the material from sliding.
Do I need a mallet, or can I just push the awl by hand?
For thin leather or canvas, hand pressure is enough. For anything thicker than 2 mm, a mallet makes the job much easier and faster. A small rubber mallet or wooden mallet works well; you don't need anything heavy. The mallet also reduces hand strain if you're doing a long seam.
What's the difference between waxed thread and regular thread?
Waxed thread has a thin coat of wax that seals the fibers, preventing fraying and making the thread stiffer so it holds its shape in the holes. Regular thread will fray, especially where the needle passes through, and can break under stress. For leather work, waxed thread is worth the small extra cost and will make your seams last much longer.