Burlap needs a sharp needle, heavy-duty thread, and a slower machine speed than cotton
Burlap is stiff, loosely woven, and prone to fraying and snagging. A standard universal needle will bend or break in the thick weave. Use a size 16 or 18 needle — the kind marked for heavy fabrics — and switch to heavy-duty polyester or upholstery thread instead of regular sewing thread. The thread needs to be thick enough not to snap under the pressure of pushing through burlap's coarse fibers.
Set your machine to a slower speed than you would use for cotton or linen. Burlap resists the needle, and rushing the fabric through causes skipped stitches and broken needles. A stitch length of 3.0 to 3.5 millimeters works better than the standard 2.5 — longer stitches are less likely to pucker or tear the weave. Test your settings on a scrap first; burlap varies in weight, and a lightweight burlap may need finer adjustments than a heavy upholstery-grade version.
Key Takeaways
- Use a size 16 or 18 needle designed for heavy fabrics, not a universal needle, because burlap's loose weave will break a standard needle.
- Switch to heavy-duty polyester or upholstery thread; regular sewing thread will snap under the strain of pushing through burlap.
- Sew at a slower machine speed with a stitch length of 3.0 to 3.5 millimeters to avoid skipped stitches and puckering.
- Finish raw edges with a zigzag stitch or binding tape, because burlap frays aggressively and will unravel if left unsealed.
- Stabilize lightweight burlap with fusible interfacing on the wrong side before cutting and sewing to prevent distortion.
Stabilize burlap before you cut to prevent stretching and distortion
Burlap's loose weave makes it unstable. If you pick up a piece without support, it will stretch and shift out of shape. For lightweight burlap or any project where precision matters, fuse a lightweight fusible interfacing to the wrong side before you mark or cut. This gives the fabric a backing that holds the weave in place and makes it easier to handle under the presser foot.
If you are working with heavy upholstery-grade burlap, interfacing may not be necessary — the weight of the fabric itself provides enough stability. But for decorative projects, garments, or anything that will see movement or washing, the interfacing step saves frustration. Iron the interfacing on according to the product instructions, usually at a medium heat with steam, and let it cool completely before cutting.
Finish all raw edges to stop fraying
Burlap frays more aggressively than most fabrics. A raw edge will unravel within weeks, especially on seams that see stress or washing. The simplest finish is a zigzag stitch run along each raw edge after you sew the seam. Set your machine to a wide zigzag (width 4.0 to 5.0, length 2.0 to 2.5) and stitch just inside the raw edge, catching both layers if it is a seam.
For a more polished look, use bias binding tape or seam binding — a narrow strip of fabric that folds over the raw edge and is sewn down on both sides. Burlap's texture makes binding slower to explore than on smooth fabrics, but it creates a finished edge that will not fray. You can buy pre-made binding in cotton or synthetic fiber at any fabric store, or make your own from matching or contrasting fabric if you have the time.
If the project is decorative and will not be washed or handled roughly, a single pass of the zigzag stitch is often enough. If it is a tote bag, upholstery, or anything that will see regular use, binding is worth the extra work.
Use a walking foot to feed burlap evenly through the machine
A walking foot — also called an even-feed foot — has its own set of feed dogs that move in sync with the machine's built-in feed dogs. This prevents the top layer of burlap from shifting ahead of the bottom layer while you sew, which is a common problem with thick or loosely woven fabrics. If your machine did not come with one, a walking foot is a standard presser foot attachment that costs between fifteen and thirty dollars and fits most machines.
The walking foot is especially useful when sewing two layers of burlap together, such as for a bag or cushion cover. Without it, the top layer often creeps forward, and you end up with seams that are not straight or layers that do not line up. If you do not have a walking foot, you can reduce the problem by sewing slowly and using your hands to guide the fabric gently — but a walking foot makes the job much easier and the result more reliable.
Backstitch at the start and end of every seam
Burlap's loose weave means stitches can pull loose if they are not anchored. Always backstitch — sew backward for three or four stitches — at the beginning and end of every seam. This locks the thread into the weave and prevents the seam from unraveling when the fabric is handled or washed.
If you are sewing a long seam, you can also backstitch at stress points — anywhere the seam will bend or pull, such as the corners of a bag or the edges of a cushion. This is extra insurance against seams coming apart later.
Trim and grade seams to reduce bulk
Burlap is thick, and seam allowances stack up quickly. After you sew a seam, trim the seam allowance down to about half an inch (or narrower if the seam will not see stress). If you are sewing two layers together, grade the seam by trimming one layer to half an inch and the other to a quarter inch. This creates a gradual step instead of a thick ridge, which makes the finished edge lie flatter and look neater.
Use sharp scissors or a rotary cutter for a clean cut. Burlap frays, so a dull blade will tear the fibers instead of cutting them, leaving a ragged edge that will fray even more. After trimming, run a zigzag stitch along the raw edges of the seam allowance to seal them.
Press burlap carefully to avoid flattening the texture
Burlap has a natural texture that is part of its appeal. A hot iron can flatten this texture permanently. If you need to press seams open or remove wrinkles, use a low to medium heat and a pressing cloth — a thin cotton cloth placed between the iron and the burlap. Press gently without bearing down hard, and avoid sliding the iron back and forth; instead, lift and press in place.
For seams, press them to one side rather than open, because burlap's weave is loose enough that pressing seams open can distort the grain. If you must press seams open, use a very light touch and a pressing cloth. Many sewers skip pressing burlap altogether and let the seams sit as they fall, which preserves the fabric's natural look.
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use regular thread to sew burlap?
Regular sewing thread will snap under the strain of pushing through burlap's thick, loose weave. Heavy-duty polyester or upholstery thread is much thicker and stronger, and it is designed to handle coarse fabrics. The difference becomes obvious on the first seam — regular thread breaks, heavy-duty thread holds.
What needle size do I need for burlap?
Use a size 16 or 18 needle marked for heavy fabrics or denim. A standard universal needle (size 80 or 90) will bend or break in burlap's weave. The larger needle has a stronger shaft and a bigger eye to accommodate heavy thread without friction.
Does burlap need to be washed before sewing?
Burlap can shrink when washed, so if your finished project will be washed, prewash the fabric in warm water and dry it before cutting. If the project is decorative and will not be washed, prewashing is not necessary. Check the manufacturer's label if the burlap came with one.
Why does my burlap pucker when I sew?
Puckering usually means your stitch length is too short, your machine speed is too fast, or your needle is too small. Try increasing stitch length to 3.0 to 3.5 millimeters, slowing down your sewing speed, and switching to a size 16 or 18 needle. Stabilizing the fabric with interfacing also helps.
Can I use burlap for clothing?
Burlap is stiff and scratchy, so it is not comfortable for garments worn against the skin. It works well for structured jackets, vests, or outerwear if lined with a soft fabric. Most sewers use burlap for home décor, bags, and upholstery instead.