A zippered pouch is built from two fabric pieces, a zipper, and four seams

A zippered pouch is a small bag with a zipper across the top that holds coins, notions, or small items. You make one by cutting two identical rectangles of fabric, sewing the zipper between them along the top edge, then sewing the three remaining sides closed. The whole project takes about an hour once you have your materials ready, and the hardest part is keeping the zipper foot steady as you stitch near the zipper teeth.

The basic shape works for any size — a 4-by-6-inch pouch for a sewing kit, a 6-by-9-inch one for a phone charger, or larger. The method stays the same. You do not need a serger or special presser feet, though a zipper foot (a presser foot that rides closer to the zipper teeth than a standard foot) makes the work cleaner and faster.

Key Takeaways

  • Cut two identical rectangles of fabric and one zipper at least as long as the width of your pouch.
  • Pin the zipper face-down between the two fabric pieces along one short edge, then sew it in place with a zipper foot.
  • Fold the fabric so the zipper is sandwiched inside, pin the three open sides, and sew them closed with a standard presser foot.
  • Trim the seam allowances at the corners before turning the pouch right-side out to reduce bulk.
  • A 5-inch zipper works for most small pouches; a 7-inch or 9-inch zipper for larger ones.

What you need before you start

Gather fabric (cotton quilting fabric or linen works well), a zipper, thread, scissors, pins, and a sewing machine. You will also need a ruler or measuring tape and a pencil or fabric marker to mark your cutting lines.

For fabric, choose something not too thick — quilting cotton or linen is ideal. Avoid heavy canvas or fleece for your first pouch; they are harder to turn right-side out and require more needle pressure. A fat quarter (an 18-by-22-inch piece of fabric) is enough for several small pouches.

For the zipper, buy one that is at least as long as the width of your finished pouch. A 5-inch zipper works for a 4-by-6-inch pouch; a 7-inch or 9-inch for larger ones. Any color zipper works, though contrasting colors show up better in the finished pouch. Metal and plastic zippers both work equally well.

Cutting your fabric and preparing the zipper

Measure and mark two identical rectangles on your fabric. For a 4-by-6-inch finished pouch, cut two pieces that are 5 by 7 inches — the extra half-inch on each side is the seam allowance, the fabric that gets sewn into the seams and does not show in the finished pouch.

Cut your zipper to length if it is longer than the width of your fabric pieces. Lay the zipper along the top edge of one fabric rectangle. If the zipper extends past the fabric on either side, trim it with scissors or a seam ripper. The zipper should be roughly the same width as your fabric piece, or slightly shorter.

Press both fabric pieces with an iron on a low to medium setting to remove wrinkles. Smooth fabric is easier to pin and sew accurately.

Sewing the zipper between the two fabric pieces

Place one fabric rectangle right-side up on your work surface. Lay the zipper face-down on top of it, with the zipper teeth pointing toward the fabric and the zipper tape (the woven strip on either side of the teeth) aligned with the top edge of the fabric. The zipper pull should point toward the right or left, not toward you.

Pin the zipper to the fabric along the top edge, placing pins every 2 to 3 inches perpendicular to the zipper. Lay the second fabric rectangle on top, right-side down, so the three layers are: fabric (right-side up), zipper (face-down), fabric (right-side down). Pin all three layers together along the top edge.

Attach a zipper foot to your sewing machine. This foot is narrower than a standard foot and rides closer to the zipper teeth, letting you sew a straight line without hitting the teeth or the zipper pull. If you do not have a zipper foot, a standard foot works but the line may be slightly crooked.

Sew along the top edge, about one-quarter inch away from the zipper teeth. Sew slowly and keep the zipper foot parallel to the zipper. When you reach the zipper pull, stop with the needle down, lift the presser foot, slide the zipper pull out of the way, lower the presser foot, and continue sewing. Backstitch at the start and end of the seam.

Folding and sewing the remaining three sides

Open the two fabric pieces so they lie flat, with the zipper sandwiched between them. The right sides of the fabric should now face outward and the zipper should be hidden inside. Press the seam you just made with an iron to flatten it.

Partially open the zipper — about halfway — so you have room to turn the pouch right-side out later. Fold the pouch in half so the two fabric pieces are wrong-sides together (the sides you do not want to see are now facing each other). The zipper is now at the fold. Pin the three open sides: the bottom and the two sides.

Switch back to a standard presser foot. Sew around the three pinned sides with a half-inch seam allowance (the distance from the edge of the fabric to the line you sew). Backstitch at the start and end. Leave a small gap — about 2 inches — on one of the side seams so you can turn the pouch right-side out.

Trimming corners and turning the pouch right-side out

Before you turn the pouch, trim the seam allowances at the four corners. Cut diagonally across each corner, about one-quarter inch away from the stitching line. This removes the bulk of fabric that would bunch up when you turn the pouch and makes the corners sharper and flatter.

Reach through the gap you left in the side seam and pull the pouch right-side out. Start by pulling one corner through, then work the rest of the fabric through the opening. Use a chopstick or the blunt end of a pencil to push the corners out from the inside so they are crisp and square.

Press the pouch flat with an iron. Fold the raw edges of the gap inward and pin them closed. Sew the gap shut by hand with a ladder stitch (a nearly invisible stitch that runs inside the fold of fabric) or by machine with a straight stitch very close to the edge.

Finishing touches and what to do if something goes wrong

Once the gap is closed, your pouch is done. Open and close the zipper a few times to make sure it moves smoothly. If the zipper is stiff, run a pencil along the teeth on both sides — the graphite lubricates the zipper.

If your zipper seam is crooked, the pouch will still work, but the opening may not be perfectly straight. On your next pouch, sew more slowly and use a zipper foot. If you sewed over the zipper teeth and broke a tooth, the zipper may catch or jam. A new zipper costs a few dollars and takes five minutes to replace — straightforward cut out the old one with a seam ripper and sew in a new one the same way.

If the pouch is hard to turn right-side out, you may have left the gap too small. Make the gap at least 2 inches long on your next pouch. If the corners are bunched, you did not trim enough fabric at the corners — trim a bit more and try again.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a regular presser foot instead of a zipper foot?

Yes. A zipper foot makes the seam straighter and closer to the teeth, but a standard foot works. Your seam may be slightly farther from the zipper or slightly crooked, but the pouch will function the same way. If you plan to make many pouches, a zipper foot costs five to ten dollars and saves time.

What happens if I sew over the zipper pull?

Stop when ready, backstitch to remove the stitches, and slide the zipper pull out of the way. Then continue sewing. If you have already sewn past it, use a seam ripper to cut out the stitches near the pull, slide it free, and resew that section. The zipper pull is plastic and will crack if you sew over it.

Can I make a pouch without a gap to turn it right-side out?

Yes, if you sew the zipper on after the pouch is already assembled. Sew three sides closed first, turn it right-side out through the top opening, then insert the zipper and sew it in place. This method is slightly more fiddly but eliminates the gap.

How do I make the pouch stiffer so it holds its shape?

Cut a piece of interfacing (a stiff fabric backing) the same size as your fabric pieces and fuse it to the wrong side of each piece before you start sewing. Medium-weight interfacing adds structure without making the pouch too rigid. Follow the manufacturer's instructions for fusing with an iron.

Can I use a decorative zipper or one with a large pull?

Yes. Decorative zippers and large pulls work the same way. Just make sure the zipper is long enough and that the pull does not stick out so far that it gets in the way when you close the pouch. Test the zipper before you sew it in.