A blind hem hides your stitches inside the fold

A blind hem is a stitch that runs inside the fold of fabric so the thread does not show on the outside. On a sewing machine, you use a special presser foot and a zigzag stitch that catches only a thread or two of the garment layer below the fold. When you pull the fabric straight, the stitches disappear into the crease.

Most machines can do this with the blind hem foot that came in your accessory box, or one you can buy for ten to twenty dollars. The stitch itself is built into nearly every machine made in the last thirty years. If your manual lists "blind hem stitch" or shows a stitch that looks like a long straight line with small zigzags to one side, you have what you need.

Key Takeaways

  • A blind hem foot has a metal guide that keeps the fold of fabric centered under the needle so the stitch catches only the garment layer underneath.
  • The blind hem stitch on your machine is a zigzag that moves mostly straight, then jogs sideways to catch a single thread of the lower layer.
  • You must press and fold your hem before sewing, then unfold it slightly so the fold sits exactly in the guide of the foot.
  • Thread tension and stitch width matter more on a blind hem than on straight seams because a single misaligned stitch shows on the outside.

Prepare your hem by pressing and folding

Before you touch the machine, fold and press your hem. Fold the raw edge of the fabric up to the finished length you want—usually one to two inches for pants or skirts. Press this fold flat with an iron. Then fold the garment itself so the hem is hidden inside, and press again. This crease is what guides your foot.

Now unfold the garment once, so the hem is still folded but the main body of the garment lies flat. The fold of the hem should stick up at a right angle to the garment. This is the position you sew in. If you leave the garment fully folded, the foot cannot reach the lower layer and your stitch will not catch anything.

Install the blind hem foot and thread the machine

Remove your current presser foot by pressing or unlatching the lever on the back of the foot holder—your manual shows which. Slide the blind hem foot into place and lock it down. The foot has a metal guide that sticks up like a fin; this guide holds the fold of fabric centered so the needle catches only the layer underneath.

Thread your machine as you normally would. Use thread that matches the garment, not the hem. If your hem is a different color than the outside, use a thread that matches the outside—it will be hidden. Wind a bobbin and insert it as usual. Set your machine to the blind hem stitch. On most machines this is stitch number 10 to 20, but check your manual for the exact number.

Position the fold in the guide and test on scrap fabric

Slide the folded hem under the foot so the fold sits against the metal guide. The guide should hold the fold steady without you having to push. Lower the presser foot. The needle should be positioned so it goes mostly straight down the garment layer, then jogs sideways just enough to catch a thread or two of the fold above it.

Before you sew your garment, test on a scrap of the same fabric folded the same way. Sew a few inches and stop. Unfold the fabric and look at the stitches. On the outside, you should see almost nothing—maybe a tiny dot of thread every half inch or so. On the inside, you should see the zigzag stitch running along the fold. If the stitch is catching too much fabric and showing on the outside, your stitch width is too wide or the fold is not positioned correctly in the guide.

Adjust stitch width and tension if stitches show on the outside

If your test shows thread on the outside of the garment, the needle is catching too much of the fold. Start by narrowing your stitch width by half a setting. Sew another test. The zigzag part of the stitch should be smaller, so it catches less fabric. Most blind hems work best at a stitch width between 1.5 and 2.5, depending on your machine and fabric weight.

If narrowing the width does not help, check that the fold is sitting flush against the guide. If the fold is tilted or loose, the needle will catch more than it should. Reposition the fabric and try again. If the stitch still shows, lower your top thread tension slightly—usually by one or two numbers on your tension dial. Looser top tension means the thread pulls less, so it sits deeper in the fabric and hides better.

Sew the hem with a slow, steady speed

Once your test looks right, position your garment under the foot. Start at a seam or an inconspicuous spot so any mistakes are hidden. Sew slowly—around half your normal speed—so you can feel the fabric moving and stop if something shifts. The fold must stay against the guide the whole time. If it drifts away, the stitch will catch too much and show on the outside.

Sew all the way around the hem. At the end, overlap your stitches by about half an inch with the beginning stitches, then backstitch to lock them. Trim any loose threads. Unfold the hem and press it flat. The stitches should be hidden inside the fold, and the outside should look like a clean, pressed edge with almost no visible thread.

Troubleshoot common problems

If the fold keeps slipping out of the guide, your fabric may be too stretchy or the guide may be worn. Try using a walking foot instead of the blind hem foot—it feeds fabric more evenly and works on knits and slippery materials. If you do not have a walking foot, hold the fold firmly against the guide with your fingers as you sew, but keep your hands away from the needle.

If the stitch breaks or skips, your needle may be bent or inserted backward. Remove the needle, look at it against a light to check for bends, and reinsert it with the flat side facing the correct direction for your machine. If the needle is straight, try a fresh needle—they dull quickly on dense fabrics like denim. If stitches still skip, lower your presser foot pressure slightly so the foot does not grip the fabric so hard that it distorts the weave.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a blind hem stitch on a serger?

Yes. Sergers have a blind hem stitch built in, and many people prefer it because the serger cuts and finishes the raw edge at the same time. The technique is the same: fold and press your hem, unfold it once, and position the fold in the guide. A serger blind hem is often faster and more durable than a machine stitch.

What if my machine does not have a blind hem stitch?

Older or very basic machines may not have this stitch. You can sew a blind hem by hand using a needle and thread, which takes longer but works on any fabric. Alternatively, use a narrow zigzag stitch on your machine set to the smallest width and length, positioned so it catches only the fold—this is slower but produces a similar result.

Why does my blind hem show on the outside?

The stitch is catching too much of the fold. Narrow your stitch width, reposition the fold tighter against the guide, or lower your top thread tension. Test each change on scrap fabric before sewing your garment again. The fold must sit flush against the metal guide or the needle will angle into it too far.

Can I use a blind hem on stretchy fabrics like knits?

Yes, but the standard blind hem foot may slip on very stretchy material. Use a walking foot or hold the fold firmly in place as you sew. Knits also benefit from a slightly narrower stitch width because the fabric moves more, and you want the stitch to catch less so it does not show when the fabric stretches.

How do I fix a blind hem that came undone?

If only a small section opened, you can restitch it by hand using a ladder stitch, which is invisible and stronger than a machine stitch for repairs. If the whole hem failed, remove all the old stitches, re-press the fold, and sew it again with the machine. Check your stitch width and tension on scrap fabric first to make sure the same problem does not happen again.