A blind hem hides the stitching inside the fold of fabric

A blind hem is a seam where the thread runs inside the fold of fabric so the stitches are invisible from the outside. On a sewing machine, you create this by folding the fabric edge inward, then using a special stitch that catches just a thread or two of the fold while the bulk of the thread runs inside the hem. The result looks like the fabric is hemmed by hand, but you do it on the machine in a fraction of the time.

Most modern sewing machines have a blind hem stitch built in—it looks like a zigzag with longer straight stitches. The machine does the work; you just need to fold and position the fabric correctly. If your machine does not have this stitch, you can still hand-sew a blind hem, but the machine version is faster and more even.

Key Takeaways

  • A blind hem stitch is a built-in feature on most sewing machines, usually found in the stitch menu alongside zigzag and straight stitches.
  • You must fold the fabric edge up twice—first to the wrong side, then fold it again so the raw edge is hidden inside the fold.
  • A blind hem guide, a small metal or plastic attachment that clips to the presser foot, keeps the fold aligned so stitches catch only the fold, not the main fabric.
  • Test the stitch on scrap fabric first, because the needle position and stitch width vary by machine, and a wrong setting will make stitches visible on the outside.
  • Blind hems work best on woven fabrics and straight edges; stretchy knits and curved hems are harder to keep even.

Prepare the fabric by folding the hem twice

Start by folding the fabric edge to the wrong side (the back) by the depth you want the hem to be. For most garments, that is one-half inch to one inch. Press this fold with an iron so it stays in place. Then fold the fabric again, this time bringing the fold line up so the raw edge is tucked inside. Press again. You now have a double-folded hem with no raw edges showing.

The fold you just created—the one closest to the main body of the fabric—is what the needle will catch. The stitches will run mostly inside this fold, with just a tiny bite of thread catching the fold itself. That tiny catch is what holds the hem, and it is also what stays hidden when you wear the garment.

Attach the blind hem guide to your presser foot

Most sewing machines come with a blind hem guide, a small metal or plastic piece that clips or slides onto the presser foot. Check your machine's manual to see how it attaches—some clip on from the side, others slide into a slot. The guide has a small arm or lip that rides along the fold of your hem, keeping it in the right position as you sew.

If your machine did not come with a blind hem guide, you can buy one separately for ten to twenty dollars, or you can sew without one by carefully positioning the fabric by eye. Sewing without a guide is harder to keep straight, especially on long hems, so a guide is worth having if you plan to blind hem regularly.

Set the blind hem stitch and test on scrap fabric

Open your machine's stitch menu and find the blind hem stitch. It usually looks like a zigzag with longer straight stitches running alongside it. Select it, then check your manual for the recommended stitch width and length—these vary by machine. Most machines use a stitch width of 2 to 3 millimeters and a length of 2 to 2.5 millimeters, but yours may differ.

Before you sew your garment, test the stitch on a folded scrap of the same fabric. Sew a few inches and look at both sides. The straight stitches should run mostly inside the fold, with only a tiny thread catching the fold itself. The zigzag stitch should bite into the fold just enough to hold it. If stitches are visible on the outside of the main fabric, your stitch width is too wide or your fold is positioned too far to the left. Adjust and test again until the stitches are hidden.

Position the fabric and sew slowly

Place the folded hem under the presser foot with the fold facing left (toward the guide). The guide arm should ride along the fold as you sew. Lower the presser foot and begin sewing slowly. The straight stitches will run inside the fold, and the zigzag will catch the fold itself. Let the guide do the work of keeping the fold in the right place—do not pull or push the fabric.

Sew at a steady, slow pace. Blind hemming does not need to be fast; speed makes it harder to keep the fold aligned. If the fold shifts or the guide loses contact with it, stop, reposition, and start again. A few inches of uneven stitching is easier to fix than a whole hem that is off.

Finish and press the hem flat

When you reach the end of the hem, backstitch a few stitches to lock the thread, then trim the thread tails. Open the fabric and press the hem flat with an iron. The stitches should be nearly invisible from the outside. If you see thread on the outside, the stitch width was too wide or the fold was not positioned correctly. You can pick out those stitches and try again on a fresh section of fabric.

If the hem puckers or the stitches are loose, check that your thread tension is correct. Blind hemming uses the same tension as regular sewing, but if the thread is too tight, it can pull the fold and create puckers. Loosen the top tension slightly and test again on scrap fabric.

When a blind hem does not work and what to do instead

Blind hems work best on straight edges of woven fabrics like cotton, linen, and wool. Curved hems (like the bottom of a circle skirt) are much harder to keep even because the fold does not stay aligned as you navigate the curve. Stretchy knits can also be tricky because the fabric moves as you sew, making it hard to keep the fold in the right place.

If your fabric is curved or stretchy, consider a regular hem instead—a fold sewn with a straight stitch or a stretch stitch, pressed flat, and topstitched if you want the stitching to show. You can also hand-sew a blind hem on difficult fabrics, which gives you more control over the fold and the stitch depth. Hand sewing takes longer but produces a very neat result on delicate or stretchy materials.

Frequently Asked Questions

What if my machine does not have a blind hem stitch?

You can hand-sew a blind hem instead. Fold the fabric twice as described, thread a needle, and use a blind stitch (also called a ladder stitch), catching just one or two threads of the fold with each stitch. It takes longer than machine sewing but works on any fabric and any machine.

Why are my stitches showing on the outside?

The fold is positioned too far to the left, so the zigzag is catching the main fabric instead of just the fold. Move the fold slightly to the right and test again on scrap fabric. You may also need to reduce the stitch width by half a millimeter.

Can I blind hem a knit fabric?

Knits are difficult because they stretch as you sew, moving the fold out of position. If you want to try, use a stretch stitch instead of a blind hem stitch, or hand-sew the hem so you can control the tension. A regular topstitched hem is often easier and looks good on knits.

How do I blind hem a curved edge?

Curved hems are very hard to keep even with a blind hem stitch because the fold does not stay aligned as you turn. A regular hem with a straight stitch or a hand-sewn blind stitch works better on curves. Take your time and sew slowly, repositioning the fold every few inches if needed.

Do I need to use a special thread for blind hemming?

No. Use the same thread you would for regular sewing—all-purpose polyester or cotton thread works fine. Match the thread color to the fabric so any tiny stitches that show are less noticeable.