A blind hem hides the stitching inside the fold of fabric

A blind hem is a row of stitches that runs inside the fold at the bottom of your pant leg, so the thread is invisible from the outside. Your sewing machine can do this with a blind hem foot (also called a blind stitch foot) and the blind hem stitch setting that comes built into most machines. The foot has a guide that keeps your needle in the right position—mostly in the fold, with occasional tiny catches into the pant fabric itself.

The result looks like a hand-sewn hem from the outside, but it takes about a quarter of the time. You will need to prepare the hem by folding and pressing it first, then thread the machine and adjust the stitch width so the needle catches just enough fabric to hold without puckering.

Key Takeaways

  • A blind hem foot guides the needle to stitch mostly inside the fold, with tiny catches into the pant leg fabric to anchor the hem.
  • You must fold and press the hem by hand before machine sewing, then fold the pant leg inside-out so the fold faces the foot.
  • The blind hem stitch setting is standard on most machines; check your manual to find it and confirm your machine has a blind hem foot.
  • Stitch width controls how much fabric the needle catches—start at 2.0 to 2.5 mm and test on scrap fabric before hemming your pants.
  • If stitches show on the outside or the hem puckers, the fold is not positioned correctly in the foot or the stitch width is too wide.

Prepare the hem by folding and pressing

Try on the pants and have someone mark where the hem should sit, or fold and pin them yourself while wearing them. The hem should just touch the top of your shoe. Mark both legs at the same height using tailor's chalk or a fabric pencil.

Lay one pant leg flat on your ironing board. Fold the bottom edge up to your mark and press with a hot iron to crease the fold. Fold it up again by about half an inch and press again. This double fold is what the blind hem foot will ride along. Repeat on the other leg. Let the fabric cool completely before moving to the machine.

Attach the blind hem foot and thread the machine

Check your sewing machine manual to confirm it has a blind hem stitch setting and to find the correct foot. Most machines use a foot labeled "blind hem" or "blind stitch." Unscrew or unclip the presser foot you have been using and slide the blind hem foot onto the needle bar, then tighten it in place.

Thread the machine as you normally would, using thread that matches your pants. The blind hem stitch works best with all-purpose polyester or cotton thread. Wind a bobbin and insert it as usual. Set your machine to the blind hem stitch—this is usually marked with a symbol that looks like a small zigzag or a row of dashes with a longer stitch at intervals. Check your manual for the exact symbol on your model.

Position the pant leg and test the stitch width

Turn one pant leg inside-out and slide it onto the machine bed so the folded hem faces the blind hem foot. The fold should sit against the guide on the foot—this is the vertical blade or ridge that runs along the side of the foot. The bulk of the pant leg fabric should be to the left of the foot (or right, depending on your machine's design; check your manual).

Before you sew your actual pants, test on a scrap of fabric folded the same way. Set the stitch width to 2.0 mm and sew a few inches. Stop and look at the stitching. The needle should catch only a few threads of the pant fabric each time it swings out from the fold. If the needle is catching too much fabric, the hem will pucker. If it is missing the fabric entirely, the hem will not hold.

Adjust the stitch width up or down by 0.5 mm increments and test again until the stitches look right. Most blind hems work well between 2.0 and 2.5 mm, but your machine and fabric may differ. Once you have the right setting, write it down so you remember it next time.

Sew the hem with the fold against the guide

Lower the presser foot and begin sewing slowly. Keep the fold of the hem pressed against the guide on the blind hem foot as you move forward. The foot will do most of the work of keeping the needle in the right spot, but you need to steer so the fold stays in contact with the guide. If the fold drifts away from the guide, the needle will either miss the fabric or catch too much of it.

Sew all the way around the pant leg, stopping about 2 inches before you reach where you started. Backstitch to lock the thread. Trim the thread tails and remove the pant leg from the machine. Repeat on the other leg.

Unfold and press the finished hem

Turn the pant leg right-side-out and lay it flat. Gently unfold the hem and press it flat with your iron. The stitching should be almost invisible from the outside—you will see only tiny dots where the needle caught the fabric. From the inside, you will see a row of stitches running along the fold.

If stitches are visible on the outside or the hem is puckered, the fold was not positioned correctly in the foot, or the stitch width was too wide. You can carefully pick out the stitches with a seam ripper and try again with a narrower stitch width or better positioning of the fold.

Troubleshoot common problems

Stitches show on the outside. This usually means the needle is catching too much fabric. Reduce the stitch width by 0.5 mm and test on scrap fabric again. Also check that the fold is sitting flush against the guide on the foot—if it is tilted or loose, the needle position will be off.

The hem puckers or bunches. Puckering often happens when the stitch width is too wide or the fabric is being pulled as you sew. Reduce the stitch width, slow down, and make sure you are guiding the fold gently against the guide without pushing or pulling the fabric. Lightweight fabrics pucker more easily than heavy ones, so use a narrower stitch width for thin pants.

The thread keeps breaking. Check that the thread is wound smoothly on the bobbin and that the needle is inserted correctly. Also make sure the needle is not bent or dull. A bent needle will catch the thread and break it. If you have sewn many hems, replace the needle with a fresh one.

The blind hem foot does not seem to fit my machine. Blind hem feet come in different styles for different machine types. Check your manual to confirm the exact foot your machine uses, or bring your machine to a fabric store and ask them to show you the correct foot. Some machines use a different foot design or do not have a blind hem stitch at all—in that case, you can sew a regular straight stitch close to the fold, which will be less invisible but still hidden inside the hem.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a blind hem foot on a machine that does not have a blind hem stitch?

No. The blind hem foot is designed to work with the blind hem stitch setting. Without that stitch, the needle will not move side to side in the right pattern. You can still hand-sew a blind hem, or use a regular presser foot and sew a straight stitch close to the fold, which will be less visible but not truly blind.

What thread should I use for a blind hem?

Use all-purpose polyester or cotton thread that matches your pants as closely as possible. Avoid heavy thread like topstitching thread, which will be too thick and visible. If you cannot find an exact match, choose a shade slightly darker than the fabric—it will be less noticeable than a lighter shade.

Do I need to press the hem before sewing?

Yes. Pressing sets the fold and makes it easier to position in the foot. An unpressed hem will shift as you sew, and the stitches will be uneven. Press the fold firmly with a hot iron and let it cool before you start sewing.

Can I blind hem knit or stretchy fabric?

Yes, but use a ballpoint needle instead of a regular needle, and reduce the stitch width slightly. Knit fabric is more prone to puckering, so test on scrap fabric first. You may also want to use a walking foot or a stretch needle to help feed the fabric evenly.

What if the hem is too long or too short after I sew it?

You can pick out the blind hem stitches with a seam ripper, re-fold the hem to the correct length, press it, and sew it again. The seam ripper will not damage the fabric if you work carefully. Mark the new hem line with tailor's chalk before you fold and press.