A blind hem hides the stitches inside the fold of fabric

A blind hem is a stitch that runs inside the fold of turned-up fabric, so the thread does not show on the outside. On a sewing machine, you use a special presser foot and a zigzag stitch that catches only a thread or two of the main fabric, then moves into the fold. The result looks hand-sewn from the outside — the hem is nearly invisible.

Most machines made in the last 20 years have a blind hem stitch built in. You will need a blind hem foot (sometimes called a blind stitch foot), which costs between $15 and $40 and is usually available for your machine's brand. The foot has a guide that keeps the fold of fabric in the right position so the needle catches just enough thread to hold without showing.

The process takes longer than a straight stitch because you are working with a fold, and the stitch itself is slower. But the result is worth it for garments where you do not want visible stitching — trousers, skirts, dresses, and lined jackets.

Key Takeaways

  • A blind hem stitch is built into most modern machines and uses a special presser foot to hide thread inside a folded hem.
  • You need a blind hem foot for your machine brand, which you can order online or buy at a fabric store for $15 to $40.
  • The fabric must be pressed and folded before you start, with the fold positioned against the guide on the foot.
  • Thread tension and stitch width matter more on a blind hem than on straight seams, and you should test on scrap fabric first.
  • A blind hem works best on woven fabrics and lighter knits; heavy fabrics or stretchy materials may not hold the fold properly.

Check your machine manual for the blind hem stitch number

Open your machine manual and search for "blind hem" or "blind stitch". The manual will show you which stitch number to select and what the stitch looks like on the screen or dial. Write down the number so you do not have to look it up again.

If you have an older machine or cannot find the manual, search online for your machine model and "blind hem stitch". Most manufacturers post manuals as PDFs. If your machine does not have a blind hem stitch, you can still sew a blind hem by hand or by using a narrow zigzag stitch and catching the fold carefully, but the machine stitch is faster and more even.

Buy or borrow a blind hem foot for your machine

The blind hem foot is not the same as a standard presser foot. It has a metal guide — a thin blade or wire — that runs along the fold of fabric and keeps it positioned so the needle catches only a few threads of the main fabric. Without this foot, the stitch will either miss the fold entirely or go through both layers and show on the outside.

Blind hem feet are brand-specific. A Bernina blind hem foot will not fit a Singer, and a Janome foot will not fit a Brother. When you order, give the retailer your machine brand and model number. You can find the model number on a sticker inside the machine or on the back. Feet are usually available from the machine manufacturer, fabric stores like Joann, or online retailers. Some machines come with a blind hem foot in the original box — check your accessories bag before ordering.

Prepare the hem by pressing and folding the fabric

Measure up from the bottom of the garment the length you want the hem to be — usually 1.5 to 2 inches for trousers or skirts. Mark this line lightly with chalk or a fabric pencil. Fold the fabric up along this line and press it flat with an iron. This crease is your hem fold.

Now fold the raw edge of the fabric up to meet the crease you just made, or fold it up about 0.5 inches short of the crease. Press this second fold flat. You now have a double-folded hem. The fold that faces outward (the one closest to the outside of the garment) is the one the blind hem foot guide will run along.

If the fabric is slippery or the hem is long, pin the fold in place with pins running parallel to the fold, not across it. Remove pins as you sew.

Set up the machine and thread it correctly

Install the blind hem foot on your machine according to your manual. Attach the foot, then lower the presser foot lever to engage the tension discs. Thread the machine with thread that matches the garment fabric — not the bobbin thread, which will not show.

Set the stitch to the blind hem stitch number you found in your manual. Most machines have a stitch width dial or screen setting for blind hem. Start with a width of 2 to 2.5 millimeters. The length is usually set to 2 to 2.5 millimeters as well, but check your manual because this varies by machine.

Tension is important. If the top thread is too tight, it will pull the fold and pucker the fabric. If it is too loose, the stitch will not hold. Start with the tension at the number your manual suggests for blind hem — often one or two numbers lower than normal — and adjust after you test on scrap fabric.

Test the stitch on scrap fabric before sewing the garment

Cut a piece of scrap fabric the same weight as your garment — a leftover from cutting out the pattern is ideal. Fold and press it the same way you folded the hem. Place it under the foot with the fold against the guide blade.

Lower the presser foot and sew slowly, watching how the needle moves. The needle should swing out to the right and catch just one or two threads of the main fabric, then swing back into the fold. If the needle is catching too much fabric and the stitch shows on the outside, move the fold slightly away from the guide or reduce the stitch width. If the needle is missing the fold entirely, move the fold closer to the guide or increase the stitch width slightly.

Sew 3 to 4 inches on the scrap, then remove it and look at the result. Open the fold and check that the thread is catching only the outer layer of fabric. If the stitch looks right, you are ready to sew the garment. If not, adjust the width or tension and test again.

Sew the hem with the fold positioned against the guide

Place the garment under the foot with the folded hem positioned so the fold sits against the guide blade. The guide should be touching the fold lightly — not pressing hard against it. Lower the presser foot.

Sew slowly and steadily. Do not pull the fabric; let the feed dogs move it. Watch the fold as you sew to make sure it stays against the guide. If the fold drifts away, stop, reposition it, and continue. Sew the entire hem, removing pins as you reach them.

When you reach the end, backstitch a few stitches to lock the thread, then raise the presser foot and remove the garment. Trim any loose threads.

Press the finished hem and check for puckering

Open the hem and look at the stitching from the inside. The thread should be catching only the outer layer of the folded fabric, not going through to the outside. If the stitch is visible on the outside, the fold was too close to the guide or the stitch width was too wide. You can pick out the stitches and try again, or accept a slightly visible line if it is minimal.

Press the hem flat with an iron, using a pressing cloth if the fabric is delicate. The heat will set the stitches and help the fold lie flat. If the fabric is puckered, the tension was too tight — make a note to loosen it next time.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a blind hem stitch on stretchy fabric?

Blind hem works best on woven fabrics and light knits. Heavy stretch fabrics like swimsuit material or thick lycra will not hold the fold properly because the fabric keeps moving. For stretchy garments, use a narrow zigzag stitch or a stretch blind hem stitch if your machine has one, and test on scrap first.

What if the stitch shows on the outside of the garment?

The fold was too close to the guide blade, or the stitch width was too wide. Pick out the stitches, reposition the fold slightly away from the guide, reduce the stitch width by 0.5 millimeters, and test on scrap fabric again before resewing the garment.

How do I sew a blind hem on a curved edge like a pant leg?

Sew slowly and watch the fold constantly. Stop and reposition the fold every few inches if needed. The curve will not be perfectly smooth, but small adjustments as you go will keep the stitch from drifting. Practice on a scrap pant leg first if you have one.

Do I need special thread for a blind hem?

No. Use the same thread you would use for a regular seam on that fabric — polyester or cotton in a color that matches the garment. The bobbin thread does not show, so you can use any color there.

What if my machine does not have a blind hem stitch?

You can sew a blind hem by hand using a blind stitch needle and thread, which takes longer but gives the same result. Or use a narrow zigzag stitch set to 1.5 millimeters wide and 2 millimeters long, position the fold carefully, and sew slowly. The result will not be quite as invisible, but it will hold.