A rolled hem is a narrow, finished edge that folds fabric back on itself

A rolled hem is a seam that wraps the raw edge of fabric inward and stitches it down, creating a thin, polished border. On a sewing machine, you fold the fabric edge twice—first to hide the raw edge, then to create the final roll—and stitch close to the fold. The result is a hem that looks professional and lies flat, often used on scarves, napkins, and lightweight garments.

The process takes about 15 to 20 minutes once you understand the fold sequence. Most machines can do this with a standard presser foot, though some sewers prefer a rolled hem foot for speed and consistency. The key is getting the first fold tight and even; the second fold and stitch follow naturally from there.

Key Takeaways

  • A rolled hem requires two folds: first fold the raw edge under by about 1/4 inch, then fold that folded edge under again by another 1/4 inch.
  • Press each fold with an iron before stitching to keep the fabric from shifting under the presser foot.
  • Stitch close to the inner fold using a straight stitch, and backstitch at the start and end to lock the thread.
  • Practice on scrap fabric first, because the folds are small and the technique feels awkward until you have done it once or twice.
  • A rolled hem foot speeds up the process but is not required; a standard presser foot works just as well if you fold carefully.

Prepare your fabric and thread

Start with fabric that is already cut to the size you want, with the edge you plan to hem facing you. Lightweight fabrics—cotton voile, linen, silk—roll more smoothly than heavy ones. If you are hemming a curved edge like a scarf, the curve will be easier to manage than a sharp corner.

Wind your bobbin with thread that matches your fabric, and thread the needle with the same color. Use a standard all-purpose thread; specialty threads are not necessary for a rolled hem. Set your machine to a straight stitch with a stitch length of 2.0 to 2.5 mm—short enough to hold the fold securely but not so tight that the fabric puckers.

Make the first fold and press it

Fold the raw edge of the fabric toward the wrong side (the back) by about 1/4 inch. Use your fingers to crease this fold, then press it flat with an iron on medium heat. This fold hides the raw edge and gives you a clean line to work from. If the fold is uneven, unfold it, adjust, and press again—this step is worth taking time on.

For a straight edge, you can fold the entire hem length at once and press the whole thing. For a curved edge, fold and press in sections of 3 to 4 inches to avoid wrinkles and puckers. The iron does most of the work here; do not rely on your fingers alone to hold the fold in place while you sew.

Make the second fold and press again

Fold the already-folded edge under one more time by another 1/4 inch, so the raw edge is now completely enclosed inside two layers of fabric. Press this second fold flat with the iron. You should now have a small, neat roll of fabric about 1/2 inch wide (or slightly less, depending on how precisely you folded).

This second fold is what creates the finished look of a rolled hem. If the first fold was uneven, the second fold will show that unevenness, so take a moment to straighten any bumps before you press. Once pressed, the fold should hold its shape well enough to sew without shifting.

Stitch close to the inner fold

Position the folded edge under your presser foot so the needle will stitch just inside the inner fold—close enough that the stitch catches the fold and holds it, but not so close that the needle pierces the outer layer of the roll. A good target is about 1/8 inch from the fold line. Backstitch two or three stitches at the start to lock the thread.

Sew slowly and steadily along the entire hem length. Keep the fold aligned with the edge of the presser foot as a guide, or use a seam guide if your machine has one. If the fabric starts to bunch or the fold shifts, stop, lift the presser foot, straighten the fabric, and continue. Backstitch at the end to lock the thread again.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

The most common error is folding too much fabric in the first fold—more than 1/4 inch—which makes the second fold too thick to stitch neatly. Stick to 1/4 inch for the first fold and 1/4 inch for the second. Another mistake is skipping the iron press; folding by hand and sewing when ready often results in a wavy, uneven hem because the fabric shifts under the presser foot.

A third mistake is stitching too far from the fold, which leaves the inner fold loose and the hem looks sloppy. Aim for 1/8 inch from the fold, and if you are not sure, test on a scrap first. Finally, do not rush the first fold—if it is crooked, the whole hem will be crooked. Unfold, adjust, and press again if needed.

When to use a rolled hem foot

A rolled hem foot is a presser foot with a small metal scroll or guide that automatically rolls the fabric as you sew. It speeds up the process and creates very consistent results, especially on long hems. If you plan to sew rolled hems regularly, one is worth the cost—usually $10 to $25 depending on your machine brand.

To use a rolled hem foot, you still fold and press the first fold by hand, but the foot guides the second fold as you sew, so you do not have to fold it beforehand. Check your machine manual to see if a rolled hem foot is available for your model, and follow the manual's instructions for threading and positioning the fabric. If you do not have a rolled hem foot, the hand-folding method described above works just as well.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I do a rolled hem on heavy fabric like denim?

Rolled hems work best on lightweight to medium-weight fabric. Denim is too stiff to fold neatly twice and will bunch under the presser foot. For denim, use a standard 1/2-inch hem instead, folded once and stitched with a straight stitch or topstitch.

What if my rolled hem looks wavy or uneven?

Waviness usually means the first fold was not pressed firmly enough, or the fabric shifted while you were sewing. Unpick the stitches, re-press the folds with a hot iron, and sew again more slowly. If the problem persists, check that your presser foot pressure is set correctly—too light and the fabric moves, too heavy and it puckers.

Do I need to finish the raw edge before I roll the hem?

No. The point of a rolled hem is that it encloses the raw edge completely inside the fold, so no finishing is needed. If you use pinking shears or a serger before rolling, you are adding an extra step that does not improve the result.

How wide should a rolled hem be?

A standard rolled hem is about 1/2 inch wide when finished. If you want it narrower, fold 3/16 inch in the first fold and 3/16 inch in the second. If you want it wider, fold 3/8 inch each time. Wider hems are easier to sew but less delicate-looking; narrower hems look more refined but require more precision.

Can I do a rolled hem on a curved edge like a circle?

Yes, but it takes patience. Fold and press in small sections—2 to 3 inches at a time—following the curve. Sew each section slowly, stopping frequently to re-position the fabric. Curves are harder than straight edges, so practice on a straight scrap first.