A rolled hem uses a special presser foot and narrow stitch to fold fabric as you sew

A rolled hem is a narrow, finished edge that curves under itself as you stitch. The fabric rolls toward the underside of the garment, creating a clean line without bulk. Most machines can do this with a rolled hem foot (also called a roll hemmer foot), which guides the fabric into a tight fold while you sew a narrow zigzag or straight stitch. The result looks professional and works well on lightweight fabrics like silk, cotton voile, and linen.

The foot does most of the work — your job is to feed fabric smoothly and maintain steady speed. Once you understand the setup, rolled hems become faster than hand-stitching and far more even.

Key Takeaways

  • A rolled hem foot is a separate presser foot attachment that curls fabric as it feeds under the needle, so you must buy or borrow one if your machine did not come with it.
  • Start with a test strip of the same fabric you plan to hem, because the stitch length and thread tension need adjustment for each fabric weight.
  • The first inch or two of a rolled hem often looks messy while the foot is still catching the fold, so plan to unpick and restart if needed.
  • Rolled hems work best on straight edges and lightweight fabrics; curved seams and heavy materials often jam or pucker.

Check your machine manual for the rolled hem foot part number

Not every sewing machine comes with a rolled hem foot in the box. Check your manual or the manufacturer's website to find the correct part number for your model. Brother, Janome, Singer, and Bernina each use different foot designs, and buying the wrong one wastes money.

If you do not have the manual, search "[your machine brand and model] rolled hem foot" online, or contact the manufacturer's customer service with your machine's model number. Many shops that sell your brand can also order the foot for you. Expect to pay between $15 and $40 depending on the brand.

If you do not want to buy a foot, some machines can approximate a rolled hem with a narrow zigzag stitch and careful hand-folding, but the result is slower and less even. A dedicated foot is worth the cost if you plan to hem more than one or two garments.

Thread your machine and set stitch length to 1.5 to 2.0

Install the rolled hem foot according to your manual — most clip or screw onto the presser bar the same way a regular foot does. Thread your machine normally with thread that matches your fabric or is slightly lighter in color.

Set your stitch length to 1.5 to 2.0 millimeters. This is shorter than a regular seam stitch and creates the tight, neat appearance of a rolled hem. Start at 1.5 and test on scrap fabric first; if the stitch looks too tight or the fabric bunches, increase to 2.0.

Leave stitch width at 0 (straight stitch) unless your manual specifies a narrow zigzag for your particular foot. Some rolled hem feet work better with a 1.0 to 1.5 millimeter zigzag, so check the instructions that came with the foot.

Cut a test strip and fold the first edge into the foot's guide

Cut a strip of your actual fabric about 2 inches wide and 12 inches long. This is where most people struggle: you must fold the fabric edge and feed it into the rolled hem foot's guide slot so the fold sits in the right position before you start sewing.

Fold the fabric edge over about one-quarter inch and crease it with your fingers or a pressing tool. Then fold it again, so you have a small double fold. Slide this folded edge into the guide slot at the front of the foot — the slot should hold the fold in place as you begin to stitch.

Lower the presser foot and take one stitch by hand (using the hand wheel on the side of your machine). The foot should catch the fold and begin to roll the fabric under. If the fold slips out or the fabric does not roll, stop, remove the fabric, and try again with a tighter initial crease.

Sew slowly and let the foot guide the fabric

Once the first stitch is in place and the fold is caught in the foot's guide, you can begin sewing at a slow, steady speed. Do not pull the fabric — the foot is designed to feed it automatically. Your only job is to keep the fabric moving straight and not force it.

The first inch or two often looks uneven or loose while the foot is still catching the fold properly. This is normal. Keep sewing at the same speed and tension; the stitch will tighten and even out once the foot has fully engaged.

If the fabric jams, stops feeding, or the thread breaks, stop when ready, remove the fabric, and check that the fold is still in the guide slot. Reposition it and start again a few stitches back.

Adjust tension and stitch length if the hem puckers or loops

If your test strip shows loose loops on the underside of the fabric, your top thread tension is too loose. Increase it by one or two numbers on your tension dial and test again.

If the fabric puckers or bunches along the seam, your stitch length is too short or your tension is too tight. Try increasing stitch length to 2.0 or 2.5 millimeters, or decrease tension by one number. Test each change on a new strip before moving to your actual garment.

Lightweight fabrics like silk and voile usually need looser tension and shorter stitch length (1.5 to 1.8) than cotton. Heavier fabrics may need stitch length of 2.0 to 2.5. Write down the settings that work for each fabric type so you do not have to guess next time.

Trim the seam allowance close to the stitching after you finish

Once you have sewn the entire hem, trim the raw fabric edge as close to the stitching as you safely can without cutting the thread. Use small, sharp scissors or a seam ripper to carefully cut away the excess. The rolled hem should now sit flat and smooth against the garment.

If you are hemming a curved edge (like an armhole or neckline), the rolled hem foot will struggle because the fabric does not feed evenly around the curve. For curves, use a regular presser foot and hand-roll the hem instead, or use a narrow zigzag stitch with careful hand-folding.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use a rolled hem foot on a serger instead of a regular sewing machine?

Sergers have their own rolled hem stitch built in and do not need a special foot. If your serger has a rolled hem setting, use that instead — it is faster and creates an even narrower edge than a machine with a presser foot. Check your serger manual for the rolled hem stitch number and thread setup.

What do I do if the fabric keeps slipping out of the foot's guide?

Make sure your initial fold is tight and creased well before you insert it into the guide. If the fabric is very slippery (like silk charmeuse), try using a slightly tighter top thread tension or a shorter stitch length to help the foot grip. You can also use a small piece of temporary spray starch on the fold to stiffen it.

Is a rolled hem the same as a narrow hem?

No. A narrow hem is any hem less than one-quarter inch wide, but it does not necessarily roll. A rolled hem specifically folds the fabric under itself as it stitches, creating a curved edge. You can make a narrow hem with a regular presser foot and a straight stitch; a rolled hem requires the special foot.

Can I sew a rolled hem on knit fabric?

Knits are difficult because they stretch and curl on their own, which interferes with the foot's ability to control the fold. If you want to hem a knit garment, use a regular presser foot with a narrow zigzag stitch and a ballpoint needle instead. The zigzag gives the fabric room to stretch without breaking the thread.