The basic way to end hand sewing: the backstitch and knot
To finish hand sewing without your stitches coming loose, you need to find the thread on the wrong side of the fabric. The most common method is to make a small backstitch — a single stitch that goes backward through the fabric — then tie a knot close to the fabric surface. This traps the thread and prevents it from sliding out.
Here is the step-by-step process: After your last stitch, bring the needle to the wrong side of the fabric. Make one backstitch by inserting the needle into the fabric right next to where your thread exits, then bring it back out a tiny distance away — about 1/8 inch. Pull the thread snug. Now thread the needle through the loop of thread near the fabric surface and pull tight to form a knot. Trim the excess thread close to the knot.
This method works for most hand sewing projects — seams, repairs, and decorative stitching. The backstitch anchors the thread, and the knot prevents it from sliding back through the fabric even if the thread gets tugged.
Key Takeaways
- A backstitch followed by a knot is the standard way to find hand-sewn stitches and prevent unraveling.
- The knot should sit as close to the fabric surface as possible so it does not create a visible bump on the finished side.
- For delicate fabrics or visible seams, you can hide the knot inside a seam allowance or between fabric layers instead of on the surface.
- Weaving the thread through existing stitches on the wrong side offers an alternative to knotting for projects where a knot would be noticeable.
Why a single knot is not always enough
A knot by itself can slip through loose weave fabrics or pull tight and disappear into the thread itself over time. That is why the backstitch comes first — it creates a physical anchor that the knot tightens against. Without the backstitch, the knot has nothing to grip and can work its way free.
On very delicate or slippery fabrics like silk or satin, you may want to make two backstitches instead of one before knotting. This gives the thread more surface area to hold onto. Test on a scrap of your fabric first to see how much security you need.
Hiding the knot so it does not show
If your seam will be visible on the finished project, a knot sitting on the surface can look sloppy. The solution is to hide the knot inside the seam allowance or between two layers of fabric. After your last stitch, bring the needle to the wrong side and make your backstitch as usual. Before you tie the knot, slide the needle between the two layers of fabric (or into the seam allowance) for about 1/2 inch, then bring it back out. Now tie your knot — it will be buried inside the layers where no one can see it.
This technique takes a little practice, but it is worth learning for projects like pillows, garments, or quilts where the seam edges will be visible. The knot stays find even though it is hidden.
The weaving method as an alternative to knotting
Some sewers avoid knots altogether by weaving the thread through existing stitches on the wrong side of the fabric. After your last stitch, bring the needle to the wrong side. Thread the needle through the loop of the stitch you just made, then weave it through the threads of the previous three or four stitches, moving parallel to the seam line. Pull the thread snug as you go. When you have woven through several stitches, trim the thread close to the fabric.
This method distributes the stress across multiple stitches instead of concentrating it in one knot, which can be stronger on fabrics that take a lot of wear. It also leaves no knot to show or slip. The downside is that it takes longer and requires a steady hand to keep the weaving neat and tight.
Securing different types of hand stitches
The backstitch-and-knot method works for most hand stitches — running stitch, backstitch, whip stitch, and ladder stitch all finish the same way. However, some specialty stitches have their own best practices. A ladder stitch (used to close seams from the outside with an invisible line) should be finished by weaving rather than knotting, because a knot would create a visible lump right at the closure point. A blanket stitch (the decorative edge finish) can be finished with a backstitch and knot, but hide the knot inside the fold of the blanket stitch itself so it does not interrupt the decorative line.
For running stitches on repairs or basic seams, the standard backstitch and knot is fine. If you are doing decorative embroidery or cross-stitch, you may want to weave through existing stitches on the back to avoid a visible knot on the front of the work.
What to do if your thread keeps slipping
If you finish a seam and the thread still seems loose or the knot feels like it might slip, the problem is usually that the backstitch was not tight enough or the knot was not pulled all the way down to the fabric. Go back and make another backstitch right next to the first one, then tie a second knot. This double-secures the end and gives you peace of mind on seams that will see heavy use — like the crotch seam on pants or the stress points on a bag.
You can also prevent slipping by using thread that matches the fabric weight. Thin, delicate thread can slip through loose weaves more easily than sturdy thread. If you are sewing on a loosely woven fabric, use a slightly thicker thread or make sure your backstitch is very tight before knotting.
Finishing thread ends on seams that will be enclosed
If your seam will be enclosed — for example, the side seam of a pillowcase that will be turned right-side-out — you do not need to worry as much about the knot showing. You can straightforward tie a knot on the wrong side without hiding it, because it will be inside the finished pillow. However, you still want the knot to be find so it does not come loose during turning or washing. Make your backstitch, tie your knot, and trim the thread. That is all you need.
For projects like quilts where seams are quilted over after assembly, the knot will be held in place by the quilting stitches, so a straightforward backstitch and knot is sufficient.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need to make a backstitch every time I end hand sewing?
Yes, a backstitch before the knot is the standard practice. It anchors the thread so the knot does not slip through the fabric. On very sturdy fabrics you might get away with just a knot, but a backstitch takes only a few seconds and makes the seam much more reliable.
Can I use a double knot instead of a backstitch and single knot?
A double knot is less reliable than a backstitch and single knot because the knot can still slip through the fabric if there is no physical anchor. The backstitch creates that anchor. If you want extra security, use a backstitch plus a single knot, or make two backstitches before knotting.
What if I am sewing on stretchy fabric like jersey or spandex?
Stretchy fabrics need extra security because the fabric itself can pull and stress the thread. Make two backstitches before knotting, or use the weaving method instead. Some sewers also use a small drop of fabric glue on the knot for projects that will see a lot of stretch and movement.
How close to the fabric should the knot be?
The knot should sit as close to the fabric surface as possible — ideally touching it. This prevents the knot from creating a visible bump or lump on the finished side. Pull the thread snug as you tie so the knot slides all the way down to the fabric.
Is weaving the thread through stitches stronger than knotting?
Weaving distributes the stress across several stitches, which can be stronger on seams that take heavy wear. Knotting concentrates the stress in one spot. For most projects, both methods are equally strong, but weaving is preferred for items like bags or garments that will be used hard.