The basic finish: backstitch and cut
To finish a stitch on a sewing machine, reverse the needle direction for three to four stitches, then raise the presser foot and pull the fabric away. This backward stitching—called a backstitch—locks the thread so it will not unravel when you remove the fabric. Without it, your seam will come apart the moment someone pulls on the garment or the fabric stretches.
Most machines have a reverse button or lever on the front or side. Press it down while you sew those last few stitches in reverse. The needle will move backward along the same line you just stitched. When you reach your starting point or have gone back three to four stitches, release the reverse button, raise the presser foot lever on the right side of the machine, and gently pull the fabric toward you to slide it out from under the needle.
Cut the thread tails with scissors, leaving about 4 inches of thread hanging from both the needle and the bobbin. Some machines have a thread cutter built into the presser foot area—check your manual to see if yours does. If it does, you can use that instead of scissors.
Key Takeaways
- A backstitch—three to four stitches in reverse—locks the thread and prevents seams from unraveling.
- Raise the presser foot before pulling the fabric out, or you risk breaking the needle or thread.
- Leave 4 inches of thread tail when you cut so you have enough to tie off by hand if needed.
- Tie a knot at the end of your seam on the wrong side of the fabric for extra security on garments that will be washed or worn frequently.
- Some machines have automatic thread cutters or needle-up features that make finishing faster—check your manual to learn what yours can do.
Why the backstitch matters
Thread is held in place by tension and friction. When you stop sewing and remove the fabric, the last stitch is only locked by the stitch before it. If nothing holds that final stitch in place, the thread will slip backward through the fabric, and your seam will come undone. A backstitch creates a knot of thread that cannot slip—it is the mechanical lock that keeps your seam intact.
This is especially important on seams that will move or stretch: armholes, crotch seams, and any seam on a garment that will be washed. A backstitch is less critical on a decorative seam on a pillow that will sit still, but it is still good practice to do it every time. It takes five seconds and prevents a failed seam later.
Finishing at corners and curves
When you reach a corner, stop with the needle down in the fabric. Raise the presser foot, pivot the fabric 90 degrees, lower the presser foot, and continue sewing in the new direction. When you reach the end of that seam, backstitch as usual. The needle-down position holds the fabric in place so it does not shift when you turn it.
On curves, there is no pivot point. straightforward backstitch at the end of the curve, raise the presser foot, and pull the fabric away. The curve will hold its shape because the stitches are already in place. Do not try to backstitch along a curve—you will create puckering or bunching. Backstitch only in a straight line, even if your seam itself was curved.
Tying off by hand for extra security
After you cut the thread, you can tie a knot at the end of the seam on the wrong side of the fabric. This adds a second layer of security and is worth doing on seams that will see heavy use: jeans, bags, or any garment worn by a child. Thread a hand-sewing needle with one of the thread tails, push it through the fabric right next to where the seam ends, and tie a small knot close to the fabric surface.
This step is optional if you have backstitched properly, but it takes only a minute and is insurance against a seam failure months later. Many garment makers do this on all seams as standard practice. If you are new to sewing, tying off by hand is a good habit to build.
What to do if you forget to backstitch
If you remove the fabric and realize you did not backstitch, you can still fix it. Thread a hand-sewing needle with thread that matches your seam. Push the needle through the last machine stitch from the wrong side of the fabric, then tie a knot. This will not be as strong as a proper backstitch, but it will hold the seam together. For future seams, set a reminder to backstitch before you cut—it becomes automatic after a few projects.
If the seam has already started to come undone, you will need to remove the loose stitches with a seam ripper, backstitch properly on the machine, and then tie off by hand. This is why finishing properly the first time saves time later.
Machine features that make finishing easier
Some machines have an automatic needle-up feature. When you press the presser foot lever, the needle automatically rises to the highest position, so you do not have to turn the handwheel. This makes it faster to remove the fabric without accidentally pushing the needle into your finger. Check your manual to see if your machine has this—it is usually a button or setting in the menu.
Other machines have a thread cutter built into the presser foot or the machine body. Instead of using scissors, you straightforward raise the presser foot and the threads are cut automatically. This is convenient but not essential—scissors work just as well and give you more control over how much thread you leave.
If your machine has a needle threader, it will also have a manual thread cutter. Look for a small notch or blade near the presser foot or the needle area. Your manual will show you exactly where it is and how to use it.
Common mistakes when finishing a stitch
The most common mistake is pulling the fabric before raising the presser foot. The presser foot holds the fabric down against the feed dogs. If you pull while the foot is still down, you can break the needle, snap the thread, or bend the needle shaft. Always raise the presser foot first—it takes one second and prevents damage to the machine.
Another mistake is backstitching too many times. More than four stitches in reverse can bunch up the thread and create a thick knot that is hard to hide. Three stitches is usually enough. If you are worried about security, tie off by hand instead of backstitching more.
A third mistake is cutting the thread too short. If you cut it flush with the fabric, you will have nothing to tie off by hand if the seam comes loose. Leave at least 4 inches of thread so you have room to work with a needle if you need to repair the seam later.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I have to backstitch on every seam?
Yes, on any seam that will be worn or washed. Backstitching takes five seconds and is the difference between a seam that lasts and one that comes apart. On decorative seams that will not move—like a seam on a throw pillow—you can skip it, but it is still good practice to do it every time.
What if my thread keeps coming loose even after I backstitch?
Check that your backstitch is actually going backward. Some machines have a reverse button that is straightforward to miss. Also check that you are backstitching for at least three stitches. If the thread is still loose, tie off by hand with a knot on the wrong side of the fabric. This adds a second lock that will hold even if the backstitch slips.
Can I backstitch on a curve?
No. Backstitching on a curve will create puckering and bunching because you are stitching over stitches that are already at an angle. Backstitch only in a straight line at the end of the seam. If you are worried about a curved seam coming loose, tie it off by hand instead.
How much thread should I leave when I cut?
Leave at least 4 inches of thread on both the needle side and the bobbin side. This gives you enough to tie a knot by hand if needed, and it makes it easier to rethread the needle if you need to repair the seam later. If you cut it too short, you will have nothing to work with.
What is the difference between backstitching and tying off by hand?
A backstitch is done on the machine and locks the thread mechanically by stitching backward over the last few stitches. Tying off by hand creates a knot in the thread itself. Both work, but backstitching is faster and is the standard finish. Tying off by hand adds extra security and is useful on seams that will see heavy wear.