The basic process: fold, pin, sew, and press
Hemming a shirt on a sewing machine takes about 20 to 30 minutes once you have the shirt pinned. You fold the fabric up to the length you want, pin it in place, sew a straight line around the opening, and then press it flat with an iron. The machine does the work—you are mainly guiding the fabric and keeping the stitches straight.
The hardest part is usually getting the fold even all the way around, not the sewing itself. If your fold is uneven, the hem will look uneven. If your stitches wander, you can always pick them out and try again—fabric is forgiving.
Key Takeaways
- Measure how much fabric to fold up by trying the shirt on, marking the length with a pin or chalk, and measuring from the floor or a reference point.
- Fold the raw edge up twice—once to hide it, then again to create the hem—so no fraying shows when you wear it.
- Pin the fold every 2 to 3 inches around the entire opening before you sew, so the fold stays even as you work.
- Use a straight stitch on a medium tension setting, sew slowly, and keep the needle about a quarter-inch from the fold so the stitches hold the hem without puckering.
- Press the finished hem with a hot iron to flatten it and set the stitches so they do not come loose.
Measure the shirt length before you cut or fold anything
Put the shirt on and have someone mark where you want the hem to fall—usually at your hip, mid-thigh, or knee, depending on the style. Use a pin, a piece of chalk, or a fabric marker to make a visible line all the way around. If you are hemming alone, put the shirt on a dress form or lay it flat on a table and use a ruler or measuring tape to mark the same distance from the bottom all the way around.
Once you have marked the line, take the shirt off and measure how far that line is from the raw edge at the bottom. That distance is how much fabric you will fold up. Write it down—you will use it to fold evenly on all sides.
Do not cut the fabric yet. You need the raw edge to fold up against, and cutting too early makes the fold harder to control.
Fold the hem twice to hide the raw edge
Lay the shirt flat on a table with the inside facing up. Fold the bottom edge up by half an inch and press it flat with your fingers or a hot iron. This first fold hides the raw edge so it will not fray when you wear and wash the shirt.
Now fold that folded edge up again by the full measurement you wrote down—if you measured 1.5 inches, fold it up 1.5 inches. This second fold creates the hem itself. Press this fold flat as well. The raw edge is now tucked inside, and you have a clean fold on the outside.
Work your way around the entire opening, folding and pressing as you go. Take your time here—an even fold now means an even hem later.
Pin the fold every 2 to 3 inches to keep it steady
Once the entire hem is folded, pin it in place. Use straight pins or quilting pins, and place them perpendicular to the fold—that is, pointing across the fold rather than along it. Space them about 2 to 3 inches apart all the way around the shirt.
The pins hold the fold in place while you sew so it does not shift or bunch. If the fold starts to slip as you sew, stop, adjust the pins, and start again. It is better to stop and fix it than to sew a crooked line.
Check that the fold is even by looking at it from the outside of the shirt. If one section looks thicker or thinner than another, unpin that section, refold it, and pin it again.
Set up the sewing machine and thread it
Thread the machine with thread that matches the shirt color. Use the same thread in both the top and the bobbin. If you do not have an exact match, a slightly darker shade is less noticeable than a lighter one.
Set the stitch length to a medium setting—usually between 2 and 2.5 millimeters on most machines. A shorter stitch (closer together) is stronger but can pucker thin fabric; a longer stitch is faster but may not hold as well. Medium is the safe choice for most shirt fabrics.
Set the tension to the normal or default setting for your machine. If the stitches look loose or bunched after you sew a test line, adjust the tension slightly, but start with the default.
Sew the hem with a straight stitch, keeping it close to the fold
Place the shirt under the presser foot so the needle is about a quarter-inch away from the fold—close enough to hold the hem but far enough that the stitches do not show on the outside of the shirt when you wear it. Lower the presser foot and sew slowly, guiding the fabric with your hands but letting the machine do the work.
Sew all the way around the opening. When you reach the point where you started, overlap the stitches by about half an inch to lock them in place. Backstitch at the end by pressing the reverse button or lever for a few stitches, then cut the thread.
If the stitches look uneven or the fold shifted, you can pick out the thread with a seam ripper and try again. Fabric is tough—one or two attempts will not damage it.
Press the hem flat to set the stitches
Once you have sewn the entire hem, press it with a hot iron on the setting for your fabric type. Press from the inside of the shirt first, then flip it and press from the outside. This flattens the stitches and sets them so they do not come loose in the wash.
Let the shirt cool for a minute before you move it. Hot fabric is still soft and can shift if you handle it right away.
Try the shirt on to check the length. If it is too long or too short, you can unpick the stitches, refold, and sew again. Hemming is not permanent until you decide it is right.
Frequently Asked Questions
What if the hem puckers or looks wavy after I sew it?
Puckering usually means the tension is too tight or the stitch length is too short for your fabric. Unpick the stitches, loosen the tension slightly, increase the stitch length a little, and try again. Press the area flat with an iron before you resew so the fabric relaxes.
Can I hem a shirt without folding the raw edge twice?
You can fold once if you are using a serger or a special overlock stitch that seals the edge, but a regular sewing machine will not seal the edge. A single fold leaves the raw edge exposed, and it will fray in the wash. Two folds take a few extra minutes but keep the hem looking clean for years.
How do I know if my stitches are in the right place?
Sew a test line on a scrap of the same fabric first. If the stitches show on the outside of the shirt, move the needle closer to the fold. If they are too far from the fold and the hem is loose, move the needle closer. A quarter-inch from the fold is the standard, but adjust based on your test.
What thread color should I use if I cannot find an exact match?
A shade slightly darker than the shirt is less noticeable than a lighter shade because it blends into the shadow of the fold. If the shirt is a solid color, a neutral gray or tan often works. Test on a hidden area first if you are unsure.
Do I have to press the hem with an iron, or can I skip that step?
Pressing sets the stitches and flattens the fold so the hem looks professional and holds up in the wash. Skipping it means the stitches may loosen or the fold may shift over time. It takes two minutes and makes a real difference.