A T-Shirt Hem Is Simpler Than You Think

A t-shirt hem is a folded edge that you stitch down to stop the fabric from fraying and to shorten the shirt. The process takes about 15 to 20 minutes once you have the machine threaded and the shirt pinned. You fold the bottom edge up twice—once to hide the raw edge, once more to create the fold you will stitch—then run a straight stitch along that fold. The machine does the work; your job is to keep the fold straight and feed the fabric at an even pace.

Most t-shirt hems are between a quarter-inch and half-inch wide. Narrower hems look cleaner on lightweight knit fabric; wider hems are easier to sew straight and work better on heavier cotton. You will measure, mark, fold, pin, and sew in that order. If you have never hemmed before, a t-shirt is the right place to start because the curved neckline and armholes stay untouched—you only work the straight bottom edge.

Key Takeaways

  • Measure up from the bottom of the shirt to find where you want the new hem to sit, then mark that line with tailor's chalk or a fabric pen.
  • Fold the fabric up to your marked line, then fold it up again by the width of your hem (usually a quarter-inch to half-inch), and pin it flat before sewing.
  • Use a straight stitch on your machine with thread that matches the shirt color, and sew slowly enough to keep the fold even.
  • Press the hem with an iron after sewing to flatten it and set the stitch, which makes the finished hem look professional.

Measure and Mark Your Hem Line

Put the shirt on or lay it flat on a table and decide how much shorter you want it to be. Measure up from the bottom edge to that point—for example, if you want to remove 2 inches, measure 2 inches up from the hem. Mark that line all the way around the shirt using tailor's chalk or a fabric pen. These marks wash out, so do not worry about permanence.

If you are hemming while wearing the shirt, have someone help you mark the line, or use a hem gauge—a small ruler with a sliding marker that sits against your leg and marks the fabric at a consistent height. If you are working on a flat surface, use a measuring tape and a straight edge to draw a line with chalk. The line does not need to be perfect; it is just a guide for where to fold.

Fold, Fold Again, and Pin

Lay the shirt flat with the wrong side (inside) facing up. Fold the bottom edge up to meet your chalk line and press it flat with your fingers or an iron. This first fold hides the raw edge. Now fold the edge up again by the width of your hem—usually a quarter-inch to half-inch. This second fold is what you will stitch.

Pin along the fold every 2 to 3 inches, pushing the pins perpendicular to the edge so the presser foot can pass over them without snagging. The fold should be straight and even all the way around. If it wavers, unpin that section, straighten it, and pin again. Take your time here; a crooked pin job means a crooked stitch.

Thread the Machine and Set Your Stitch

Wind a bobbin with thread that matches your shirt color. Thread the machine following your manual's diagram—most machines thread from the top spool, through tension discs, and down through the needle. Use a needle size appropriate for knit fabric; a size 70/10 or 80/12 works for most t-shirts. If your machine has a ballpoint needle for knits, use that instead of a universal needle.

Set the stitch length to 2.5 millimeters, which is a standard straight stitch. Test the tension on a scrap of the same fabric folded the same way. The top and bottom threads should lock in the middle of the fabric with no loops or puckering. Adjust the tension dial if needed—your manual will show which direction tightens and loosens.

Sew the Hem Straight and Steady

Position the shirt under the presser foot so the needle will land just inside the fold. Lower the presser foot and take one stitch by hand to anchor the thread. Then sew forward slowly, keeping the fold aligned with a guide line on the throat plate (most machines have lines at quarter-inch and half-inch intervals). Sew all the way around, removing pins as you approach them.

When you reach the starting point, overlap the new stitches by half an inch, then backstitch to lock the thread. Raise the presser foot and pull the shirt away. Trim the thread tails close to the fabric. The stitches will look a little loose at first; that is normal. Once you press the hem, they will tighten and the hem will look finished.

Press the Hem to Finish It

Set your iron to the temperature recommended for your fabric—check the care tag on the shirt. Place the shirt on an ironing board with the wrong side up and press the hem flat with firm, steady pressure. This flattens the stitches and sets them permanently. Flip the shirt over and press the right side as well to make sure the fold is crisp.

Let the shirt cool for a minute before moving it. The heat helps the fabric hold its shape, and moving it while hot can distort the hem. Once it is cool, try the shirt on. The hem should sit evenly and feel smooth, with no puckering or waves.

What to Do If the Hem Comes Out Uneven

If your stitches are wavy or the hem is not level, you can remove the stitches and try again. Use a seam ripper to cut every third or fourth stitch, then pull the thread out. Press the fabric flat to remove the crease, re-mark your line, fold, pin, and sew again. You lose nothing by starting over—the holes from the old stitches will close when you press the new hem.

If the hem puckers after sewing, the tension was too tight. Loosen the top tension slightly and test on a scrap before removing the whole hem. If the stitches skip or break, the needle may be bent or inserted backward. Replace it and try again. Most problems are fixable without starting from scratch.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I hem a t-shirt by hand instead of with a machine?

Yes. A hand-sewn hem takes longer—30 to 45 minutes—but works just as well. Use a ladder stitch or a slip stitch to make the stitches nearly invisible. A machine hem is faster and more durable for everyday wear, but a hand hem is fine if you prefer it or do not have access to a machine.

What if my t-shirt is stretchy knit fabric?

Use a ballpoint needle and a stretch stitch if your machine has one, or a narrow zigzag stitch instead of a straight stitch. The zigzag allows the fabric to move slightly without breaking the thread. Fold and pin the same way, but sew a little slower to let the fabric feed evenly.

Do I have to press the hem with an iron?

Pressing is not required, but it makes a big difference. It flattens the stitches, sets the fold, and makes the hem look professional. If you skip it, the hem will still hold, but it may look a little rumpled until you wash and dry the shirt.

How wide should the hem be?

A quarter-inch to half-inch is standard for t-shirts. Narrower hems (quarter-inch) look sleeker on fitted shirts and lightweight fabric. Wider hems (half-inch) are easier to sew straight and work better on loose or heavier cotton. Choose based on what looks right to you and what feels easiest to sew.

What if I sew past the starting point and overlap too much?

A small overlap is fine and actually makes the seam stronger. If you overlap by more than an inch, use the seam ripper to remove the extra stitches. The overlap does not affect how the hem looks or wears, so do not worry if it is not perfect.