Measure and mark your new hem length before you cut

Start by putting on the jeans and standing in front of a mirror wearing the shoes you normally wear with them. The hem should hit the top of your shoe or just barely touch the floor — not bunching at the ankle or dragging under your heel. Have someone mark the desired length with a fabric pencil or tailor's chalk while you stand still, or use a measuring tape to find the spot and mark it yourself.

Take off the jeans and measure from the bottom of the leg to your mark. Write this number down. Now measure the original hem — the folded part at the very bottom — and note its width. Most jeans have a 1.5-inch hem, though some are 2 inches. You will need this measurement to keep the new hem looking consistent.

Lay the jeans flat on a table and use a ruler or measuring tape to mark the new hem line all the way around the leg in pencil. Mark a second line below that, leaving space equal to your original hem width plus 0.5 inches for seam allowance. This second line is where you will cut.

Key Takeaways

  • Measure the new hem length while wearing the jeans with your normal shoes, and mark it with fabric pencil before cutting anything.
  • Cut the old hem off first, then fold and pin the new hem to match the original width, usually 1.5 inches.
  • Use a straight stitch on your machine set to medium length, sewing as close to the fold as possible without catching the outer fabric.
  • Press the hem with an iron before sewing to make it crisp and easier to stitch in a straight line.
  • Test the fit before trimming loose threads, because you may need to adjust the length if the jeans still bunch or drag.

Remove the old hem and prepare the fabric

Use a seam ripper to cut the stitches holding the original hem in place. Work slowly along one side of the leg, sliding the seam ripper under each stitch and pulling gently. Once you have cut through enough stitches, you can usually pull the hem away by hand. Repeat on the other leg.

Unfold the hem completely and lay it flat. You may see a crease from the old fold — this is normal. Now cut along the second line you marked, removing the old hem and the excess fabric. Use sharp fabric scissors and cut in one smooth motion rather than sawing back and forth, which can fray the edge.

Try on the jeans again to confirm the new length is correct. If it is too long or too short, mark a new line and cut again. Once you are satisfied, fold the raw edge up 0.5 inches and press it with an iron on medium heat. This creates a clean edge and makes the next fold easier to work with.

Fold, pin, and press the new hem

Fold the fabric up again to create your new hem, matching the original width — usually 1.5 inches total. The raw edge you just pressed should now be hidden inside the fold. Press the entire folded hem with an iron to create a sharp crease. This step matters more than it sounds: a crisp fold is much easier to sew in a straight line.

Pin the hem in place every 2 to 3 inches, inserting pins perpendicular to the fold so they do not get in the way of the presser foot. Pin all the way around both legs. Check that the fold is even and the hem width is consistent as you go.

Sew the hem with a straight stitch

Thread your machine with thread that matches the jeans — navy or black for blue denim. Set the stitch length to 2.5 to 3 millimeters, which is slightly longer than a standard seam. This prevents the thread from breaking when you wash the jeans, since denim is thick and the hem gets a lot of stress.

Position the presser foot so the needle will sew as close to the fold as possible without catching the outer fabric of the leg. Start at a seam line on the inside of the leg — this is the strongest place to begin and end. Sew slowly, keeping the fold aligned with the edge guide on your presser foot. Remove pins as you approach them, never sewing over a pin.

When you reach the end, backstitch three or four times to lock the thread, then cut the thread tails. Repeat on the second leg.

Check the fit and finish the inside

Try on the jeans and look at the hem from the front and back. It should be even all the way around and sit at the right length. If one leg is longer than the other, you may have stretched the fabric while sewing — this is common on the first attempt. You can carefully cut the stitches on the longer leg and resew it slightly higher.

Once the length is correct, trim any loose threads from the inside with scissors. You can leave the raw edge of the hem as is, or fold it under one more time and sew it down for a more finished look. Many home sewers skip this step, and the hem will still hold through many washes.

Press the finished hem and wash before wearing

Press the finished hem with an iron on medium heat, pressing from the inside of the leg. This flattens the stitches and makes the hem look more professional. Let the jeans cool completely before trying them on.

Wash the jeans in cold water before wearing them for the first time. This relaxes the fabric slightly and lets you see whether the hem length is truly correct. If the jeans shrink a bit in the wash, the hem may ride up slightly — this is normal with denim. If the new length is still wrong after washing, you can always adjust it again.

Common mistakes to avoid

The most common error is cutting too much fabric off the first time. Always measure twice and cut once. If you are unsure, cut less than you think you need — you can always cut more, but you cannot add fabric back.

Another frequent problem is sewing with thread that does not match the jeans. Mismatched thread is very visible on denim, especially blue jeans. Spend a few cents on the right color and your hem will look professional.

Do not skip the pressing step. A crease from the iron makes the fold much easier to sew straight, and it prevents the hem from puckering or twisting as you sew. If your hem looks wavy after sewing, press it again and it will usually flatten out.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I hem jeans by hand instead of using a machine?

Yes, but it takes much longer and the stitches are more visible. A blind stitch by hand is nearly invisible, but it requires patience and practice. A machine stitch is faster, stronger, and acceptable on jeans because the hem is on the inside of the leg where it does not show.

What if my jeans have a special finish on the hem, like a raw edge or a cuff?

Raw-edge hems are harder to work with because there is no fold to guide your stitching. You will need to fold the edge twice — once to hide the raw edge, then again to create the hem — which makes the hem thicker. Cuffed hems should be uncuffed, hemmed, and then re-cuffed if you want to keep that style.

How much should I cut off if I want to shorten the jeans a lot?

Remove no more than 2 to 3 inches at a time. If you need to shorten the jeans more than that, you may need to adjust the inseam as well, which is a more complex alteration. For major shortening, consider taking the jeans to a tailor.

Will the hem hold up in the washing machine?

Yes, if you sew it with a slightly longer stitch length and use matching thread. Wash in cold water and dry on low heat to reduce stress on the stitches. The hem should last through many washes before needing repair.

What if I sewed the hem crooked or uneven?

Use a seam ripper to remove the stitches and try again. This is frustrating but normal, especially on your first attempt. The second time will be easier because you now know what the fabric feels like and how your machine handles it.