Hand-sewing a hem is faster than you think, and the stitches hold as well as machine stitches

You can hem jeans by hand using a needle, thread, and one of three stitches that take 15 to 45 minutes depending on the jean leg length and your speed. The ladder stitch (also called the invisible stitch) closes the hem so the seam does not show on the outside of the fabric. The slip stitch works the same way and is easier to learn. The running stitch is the fastest but leaves visible thread on the outside. All three hold through washing and wearing as long as you use thread rated for denim — polyester or cotton-wrapped polyester, not cheap all-cotton thread that breaks.

The real work is not the stitching; it is measuring and pinning the hem to the right length before you start. Most people skip this step and end up with one leg shorter than the other. Wear the jeans with the shoes you will wear them with, have someone mark where the hem should hit your shoe, and pin from there.

Key Takeaways

  • The ladder stitch and slip stitch are invisible from the outside and take 20 to 40 minutes per pair of jeans.
  • Measure the hem length while wearing the jeans with the shoes you plan to wear them with, and have someone mark the length with a pin or chalk.
  • Use polyester or cotton-wrapped polyester thread rated for denim, not cheap all-cotton thread that frays and breaks.
  • Fold the hem up twice — once to the wrong length, then fold it again — so the raw edge is hidden inside the fold.
  • The ladder stitch leaves no visible stitches on the outside and is worth learning even though it takes slightly longer than the slip stitch.

Measure and pin the hem before you thread the needle

Put on the jeans with the shoes you will wear them with most often. Stand in front of a mirror or have someone else look at the length. The hem should hit the top of your shoe or sit just above it — not bunching on top of the shoe and not so short that your ankle shows when you sit down. Mark this length with a safety pin on both legs, or have the other person mark it with tailor's chalk or a fabric pencil.

Measure from the mark down to where you want to cut. Most people cut 1.5 inches below the mark so they have enough fabric to fold up twice and still have room to stitch. Write this number down — you will use it on both legs to keep them even. Take off the jeans and lay them flat on a table. Measure from the original hem up to your mark on one leg, then measure the same distance on the other leg and mark it. If the two marks are at different heights, the jeans were hemmed unevenly at the factory; measure from the crotch seam down instead, which is more reliable.

Fold the hem up to your mark and pin it every 2 to 3 inches around the leg. Fold it up again so the raw edge is tucked inside, and pin that fold too. This double fold hides the raw edge and makes the stitch invisible from the outside. If the jeans are very thick (raw denim or heavy twill), you may need to trim the inside hem to 0.75 inches wide so it does not bulk up.

The ladder stitch: invisible from both sides

Thread a needle with 18 to 24 inches of polyester thread and tie a knot at one end. Bring the needle up through the fold of the hem from the inside, so the knot stays hidden in the fold. Pull the thread tight so the knot catches in the fabric.

Bring the needle across to the opposite side of the hem fold — about 0.25 inches over — and push it straight into the fold (not through the denim itself). Slide the needle inside the fold for about 0.5 inches, then bring it back out. Pull the thread snug but not tight; if you pull too hard, the fabric will pucker. Go back across to the first side, push the needle into the fold, slide it 0.5 inches, and come back out. Repeat this back-and-forth motion all the way around the leg. Every 6 to 8 stitches, pull the thread firmly to close the ladder and tighten the hem.

When you reach the end, tie off the thread by making a small loop, passing the needle through it twice, and pulling tight. Trim the thread close to the fabric. The ladder stitch is invisible because the thread runs inside the fold of the hem, not through the visible denim.

The slip stitch: easier to learn, still invisible

Thread the needle and tie a knot as you did for the ladder stitch. Bring the needle up through the fold of the hem so the knot hides inside. Push the needle through a tiny bit of the denim (just the top layer, not all the way through) about 0.25 inches to the right, then bring it back out and push it back into the fold directly across from where it came out. Slide the needle inside the fold for 0.5 inches and bring it back out.

The slip stitch alternates between catching a tiny bit of denim and sliding through the fold. It is easier to learn than the ladder stitch because you can see what you are doing, and it is nearly as invisible because the thread only catches the denim in small spots. Work your way around the leg, pulling the thread snug every 6 to 8 stitches. Tie off the same way you did with the ladder stitch.

The running stitch: fastest but visible

If you do not mind seeing the thread on the outside, the running stitch is the quickest option. Bring the needle up through the fold of the hem from the inside. Push the needle down through all layers of fabric (the fold, the denim, and the inside of the pant leg) about 0.25 inches away. Bring it back up 0.25 inches further along. Repeat this in-and-out motion all the way around the leg, keeping the stitches even and the thread snug.

The running stitch shows on the outside of the jeans, so choose a thread color that matches the denim or contrasts on purpose. This stitch is strong and fast — you can finish a pair of jeans in 15 to 20 minutes. Tie off the thread the same way as the other stitches.

Thread, needle size, and knot placement matter

Use polyester thread or cotton-wrapped polyester thread rated for denim or heavy fabrics. Cheap all-cotton thread frays, breaks easily, and does not hold up through washing. Polyester thread is stronger and more forgiving if you pull too hard. Match the thread color to the denim if you are using the ladder or slip stitch, or choose a contrasting color if you want the running stitch to show.

Use a needle size 80/12 or 90/14 for denim. Smaller needles bend and break; larger needles leave holes that are too big. A needle threader makes it easier to get the thread through the eye, especially if your eyesight is not sharp. Tie a small knot at the end of the thread — just big enough that it will not slip through the fabric. If the knot is too big, it will be hard to hide in the fold.

Wash and wear the jeans to test the hem

After you finish the hem, try on the jeans and check the length in the mirror. Walk around and sit down to make sure the hem does not pull or bunch. Wash the jeans in cold water and dry them on low heat or hang them to dry. The stitches should hold through multiple washes. If a stitch comes loose, you can re-stitch that section without taking out the whole hem.

If the hem is too long or too short after you wash them, you can take it out and re-hem it. Use a seam ripper or small scissors to cut the thread every inch or so, then pull the thread out. The holes will disappear when you wash the jeans again. Measure and pin the new length the same way you did the first time.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can I use fabric glue instead of stitching?

Fabric glue works for a few washes but eventually peels off, especially in the areas that get the most stress — the inside of the leg and the seams. Hand stitching lasts much longer and costs less. If you want a temporary hem for trying on jeans before buying, fabric glue is fine, but for a permanent hem, stitch it.

What if I mess up a stitch?

Use a seam ripper or small scissors to cut the thread every inch, then pull it out. You can re-stitch that section without taking out the whole hem. If the holes are visible, they will fade after you wash the jeans. Do not worry about perfection — the hem does not have to look like a machine stitch to hold.

How long does a hand-sewn hem last?

A hand-sewn hem lasts as long as a machine-sewn hem if you use the right thread and stitch. Polyester thread is stronger than cotton and holds through dozens of washes. The ladder stitch and slip stitch are as durable as a machine stitch because they distribute the stress across many small stitches rather than one continuous line.

Do I have to fold the hem twice?

The double fold hides the raw edge and makes the stitch invisible. If you fold only once, the raw edge will show on the inside and the hem may fray. The double fold takes a few extra minutes but saves you from having to trim and finish the raw edge separately.

Can I hem jeans with thick seams at the inseam?

Yes, but you will need to stitch around the seam carefully. The seam is thick, so your needle may bend if you try to push it through. Stitch up to the seam, then stitch on either side of it rather than through it. You can also trim the seam allowance inside the hem to 0.5 inches so it does not bulk up, but do not cut the seam itself.