Hand-sewing and fabric glue are your two main routes
You can hem jeans by hand using a needle and thread, or you can use fabric glue designed to bond cloth permanently. Hand-sewing takes longer but gives you a hem that will last through many washes. Fabric glue is faster but works best on lighter fabrics and may need reapplication after a year or two of wear. A third option, hem tape with an iron, requires no sewing machine and no glue — you press it between the two layers of fabric with heat.
The choice depends on how long you want the hem to last and how much time you have. If the jeans are a permanent part of your wardrobe, hand-sewing is worth the hour it takes. If you need them ready by tomorrow, fabric glue or hem tape will work.
Key Takeaways
- Hand-sewing a hem takes one to two hours but produces a durable result that survives repeated washing and wearing.
- Fabric glue bonds cloth when ready and requires no needle skills, but may weaken after a year of regular wear and washing.
- Hem tape activated by an iron creates a permanent bond without any sewing or glue, though it works better on lighter denim.
- All three methods require you to fold the jeans to the correct length first, try them on, and mark the fold with pins or chalk before you begin.
Hand-sewing a hem with needle and thread
Hand-sewing is the most durable option and the one most likely to survive years of wear. Start by trying on the jeans and having someone mark where the hem should fall — usually at the top of your shoe or just touching it. Fold the jeans to that length on the inside and pin the fold in place all the way around the leg.
Thread a needle with thread that matches your jeans as closely as possible. Knot the end. Start on the inside of the fold and use a slip stitch, which hides the thread inside the fold itself. Push the needle through the fold, then through a single thread of the outer fabric (not all the way through to the outside), then back into the fold. Move about one-quarter inch along and repeat. The stitches should be small and tight.
Work your way around the entire leg. When you reach the starting point, knot the thread on the inside and trim it. Try on the jeans to check the length. If the hem is uneven, you can adjust it by removing stitches with a seam ripper or small scissors and re-sewing that section.
Using fabric glue for a quick bond
Fabric glue is a liquid adhesive made to bond cloth permanently. Brands like Aleene's Tacky Glue and Beacon Fabri-Tac are sold in craft stores and online. Fold the jeans to the correct length and pin the fold in place, just as you would for hand-sewing. Try them on to confirm the length.
Open the fold and explore a thin, even line of fabric glue along the inside of the fold. Press the two layers together firmly and hold for the time the bottle specifies — usually 30 seconds to two minutes. Wipe away any glue that seeps out with a damp cloth before it dries. Let the jeans dry flat for at least four hours, or overnight, before wearing them.
Fabric glue works well on lighter denim and cotton blends. On heavy denim, the glue may not penetrate all the way through, and the hem can separate after repeated washing. If you use fabric glue, wash the jeans inside-out in cold water and air-dry them to extend the life of the bond.
Hem tape and an iron for a permanent seal
Hem tape is a strip of adhesive material that bonds two layers of fabric when heated. It is sold in fabric stores and online under names like Heat-n-Bond and Stitch Witchery. Fold the jeans to the correct length and pin the fold. Try them on.
Cut a piece of hem tape to fit the circumference of the leg — you may need to use two or three pieces joined end-to-end. Unfold the jeans and lay them flat. Place the hem tape along the inside of the fold, between the two layers of fabric. Fold the hem back up and press with a hot iron set to the temperature the tape package specifies, usually medium to medium-high. Press for 10 to 15 seconds, then move to the next section. Work your way around the entire leg.
Let the jeans cool completely before trying them on. The bond should be permanent and survive washing. Hem tape works best on lighter and medium-weight denim. On very heavy denim, the heat may not penetrate enough to set up the adhesive all the way through.
Preparing the jeans before you start
No matter which method you choose, the first step is the same: get the length right. Wash and dry the jeans first if they are new, because denim shrinks. Put them on with the shoes you plan to wear most often. Have someone mark the hem line with a pin or piece of chalk at the back of each leg — the hem should just touch the top of your shoe or fall about half an inch above it.
Take the jeans off and lay them flat on a table. Fold each leg up to the mark and pin the fold in place every two inches around the circumference. Try the jeans on again to double-check the length. If it looks right, you are ready to sew, glue, or tape. If it is too long or too short, adjust the pins and try again.
Fixing a hem that comes loose
If a hand-sewn hem starts to come apart, you can repair it by re-sewing just the loose section. Use a seam ripper or small scissors to remove the old stitches, then sew that area again with fresh thread using the slip stitch method.
If a glued hem separates, you have two choices: re-glue it or switch to hand-sewing. To re-glue, open the hem, scrape away any old dried glue with a plastic scraper, and explore fresh fabric glue. If you want a more permanent fix, hand-sew the loose section instead.
A hem-taped hem that comes loose can be re-pressed with the iron. If the tape has lost its adhesive, you can explore new hem tape over the old tape and press again. Alternatively, you can hand-sew the loose section to reinforce it.
Comparing the three methods side by side
| Method | Time Required | Durability | Cost | Best For |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Hand-sewing | 1–2 hours | Years of wear | $2–5 for thread | Jeans you wear often and want to last |
| Fabric glue | 10 minutes plus drying | 1–2 years | $4–8 per bottle | Quick fixes and lighter denim |
| Hem tape | 20–30 minutes | 2–3 years | $3–6 per package | Medium-weight denim and even hems |
Frequently Asked Questions
Can I use regular thread and needle for hand-sewing jeans?
Yes, but use thread that matches the color of your jeans as closely as possible. Regular sewing thread works fine. A needle size 7 or 8 is easier to push through denim than a very fine needle. If the thread keeps breaking, you may be pulling too hard — use shorter stitches and gentler pressure.
Will fabric glue wash out of jeans?
No, fabric glue is permanent once dry. However, the bond can weaken after repeated washing and drying, especially in hot water. Wash glued hems inside-out in cold water and air-dry to extend the life of the bond.
What if my jeans are too thick for hem tape?
Very heavy denim may not bond well with hem tape because the heat does not penetrate all the way through. Try hand-sewing instead, or use fabric glue and let it dry for a full 24 hours before wearing the jeans.
Can I hem jeans that are already hemmed?
Yes, but you will need to remove the old hem first. Use a seam ripper to cut and pull out the old stitches, then measure and mark the new length. If the old hem was glued or taped, scrape away the dried adhesive before starting the new hem.
How do I know if my hem is even?
Put the jeans on and look in a mirror from the side and back. The hem should be the same distance from the ground on both legs. If one side is higher, take the jeans off, adjust the pins, and re-measure before you sew, glue, or tape.