The basic steps for hemming pants on a sewing machine

To hem pants on a sewing machine, you measure how much fabric to remove, fold and pin the new hem line, and then sew a straight stitch around the leg opening. The whole process takes about 15 to 30 minutes per pair once you have the measurements right. Most people can do this without special skills — you need a sewing machine that does a straight stitch, thread, a needle, pins, and scissors.

The key is getting the length correct before you sew. Pants should break slightly on the top of your shoe when you stand, or sit just above the shoe if you prefer a cleaner look. Try the pants on, have someone mark the length with a pin or chalk while you wear them, then measure from that mark to the current hem to see how much fabric you need to remove.

Key Takeaways

  • Measure the desired hem length while wearing the pants, standing in the shoes you will wear them with.
  • Mark the new hem line with pins or tailor's chalk, then fold the fabric up and pin it in place before sewing.
  • Use a straight stitch on your machine set to medium length (around 2.5 millimeters), and sew slowly for a clean line.
  • Press the hem with an iron after sewing to set the fold and make the finished edge look professional.

Measuring and marking the hem line

Put on the pants with the shoes you plan to wear them with, and stand in front of a mirror. The hem should sit at the top of your shoe or just barely touching it — not bunching on the floor or sitting too high on your ankle. Have someone else mark this line with a pin placed horizontally across the inside of the leg, or use tailor's chalk to draw a light line around the leg.

Once you have the mark, take the pants off and lay them flat on a table. Measure from the mark down to the current hem with a ruler or measuring tape. This number is how much fabric you will fold up. For example, if the current hem is 2 inches wide and you need to remove 1.5 inches total, you will fold the fabric up 1.5 inches, which will use up part of the existing hem.

If you are removing more than 2 inches, you may need to trim the old hem off first. Cut the fabric straight across about 1 inch below where your new hem line will be. This keeps the folded hem from becoming too bulky.

Folding and pinning the new hem

Lay one pant leg flat on your ironing board or table with the inside facing up. Fold the fabric up along your marked line, creasing it with your fingers or the edge of a ruler. The fold should be sharp and even all the way around the leg opening.

Pin the folded hem in place with pins placed every 2 to 3 inches, going all the way around the leg. Place pins horizontally so they are straightforward to remove as you sew. Check that the fold is even by looking at it from both the inside and outside — the hem should sit at the same height all the way around.

Press the pinned hem with an iron on medium heat to set the fold. This makes the fabric easier to sew and helps the finished hem look crisp. Do not press so hard that you create permanent wrinkles in the pant leg above the hem.

Sewing the hem on your machine

Thread your sewing machine with thread that matches the pants color. Use the same thread color on both the top and bobbin. Set your machine to a straight stitch and adjust the stitch length to 2.5 millimeters — this is a standard length that holds well without creating visible holes in the fabric.

Position the pant leg under the presser foot so the needle will sew about 0.25 inches from the fold. Start sewing slowly, removing pins as you approach them. Sew all the way around the leg opening, keeping the distance from the fold even. When you reach the starting point, overlap your stitches by about 0.5 inches and then backstitch to lock the thread.

If your machine has a walking foot, use it — this helps feed thick fabrics like denim evenly and prevents puckering. If you do not have one, sew slowly and let the machine feed the fabric at its own pace without pulling.

Finishing and pressing the completed hem

Remove the pant leg from the machine and trim any loose thread ends with scissors. Flip the pant leg inside out and look at your stitching line — it should be straight and even, with no skipped stitches or loose spots.

Press the finished hem with an iron on medium heat, pressing from the inside of the pant leg. This sets the stitches and makes the hem sit flat against the leg. Press from the inside rather than the outside to avoid creating a shine on the fabric.

Try the pants on to check the length. If the hem is uneven or too short, you can remove the stitches with a seam ripper, adjust the fold, and sew again. Most people get the length right on the first try once they have measured carefully.

Common mistakes and how to avoid them

The most common mistake is not measuring while wearing the shoes you will actually wear with the pants. Heel height changes the break of the hem, so a pair hemmed for flat shoes will look too long with heels. Always try on the pants in the shoes you plan to wear them with.

Another frequent problem is sewing too fast, which causes the stitches to bunch or skip. Sew slowly and steadily, letting the machine feed the fabric. If you are new to sewing, practice on scrap fabric first to get a feel for the speed.

Uneven hems happen when you do not pin securely or when the fold shifts as you sew. Pin every 2 to 3 inches and check that the fold is even before you start. If the hem does come out uneven, a seam ripper removes the stitches quickly so you can try again.

When to use alternatives to machine hemming

A sewing machine is the fastest and most durable way to hem pants, but it is not the only way. Hand sewing with a needle and thread takes longer but gives you more control and is quieter. Hem tape and a heat press work for temporary hems or lightweight fabrics, though they do not last as long as stitched hems and can come loose after several washes.

If you do not have a sewing machine or do not want to sew, a tailor can hem pants for you. Most tailors charge between $15 and $30 per pair, depending on the fabric and how much needs to be removed. This is worth the cost if you have expensive pants or multiple pairs to hem at once.

Frequently Asked Questions

How much should pants break at the hem?

Pants should sit just at the top of your shoe or break slightly on the shoe when you stand. The break is a matter of style — some people prefer a clean line with no break, while others like the fabric to touch the shoe. Wear the shoes you plan to use the pants with when you measure.

Can I hem stretchy fabrics like knit pants on a sewing machine?

Yes, but use a stretch needle and a stretch stitch if your machine has one, or use a narrow zigzag stitch instead of a straight stitch. Stretch fabrics need some give in the seam so the hem does not break when you move. Sew slowly and do not pull the fabric as it feeds through the machine.

What if I sew the hem crooked?

Use a seam ripper to remove the stitches — slide the small hook under each stitch and pull gently until the thread breaks. Once the stitches are out, you can re-fold the hem and sew again. This takes about 10 minutes and is much faster than taking the pants to a tailor.

Do I need to trim the old hem before sewing a new one?

Only if you are removing more than 2 inches of fabric. If you are removing less than that, you can fold the existing hem up as part of your new hem. Trim the old hem off about 1 inch below your new hem line if it is very thick or if you are removing a lot of length.

How long does a machine-sewn hem last?

A properly sewn hem lasts through many washes and years of wear. The stitches hold as long as the thread does not break, which usually takes several years of regular use. If a stitch does break, you can repair it by hand-sewing a few stitches in that spot rather than re-hemming the whole pant leg.